Check Oil & Battery Light!

[Outlawstar98]

Well i was driving home today from work and i shifted to neutral (while i was in high boost/ 3500 RPM's ish) and all of a sudden i looked down and my batter and check oil light came on, so i shifted to 2nd and it seamed like nothing happened, and so i TRYED to make it happen so i slamed on the gas and i herd the turbo spull up and than shifted to neutral, and it did it again, what could be wrong?

Is it the fuel cutting out? I NEED TO KNOW! *crys*

 

[icespeed]

the best way to explain fuel cut is imagining that you have hit a brick wall doing 20mph.

It could be as simple as your oil is low and your battery on it's way out. It could also be something electrical (which always sucks on a car). Did the car turn off? Did your steering lock up? Do you have the "check engine" light on?

First, check your oil
Second, have your battery tested.

 

[Outlawstar98]

the best way to explain fuel cut is imagining that you have hit a brick wall doing 20mph.

It could be as simple as your oil is low and your battery on it's way out. It could also be something electrical (which always sucks on a car). Did the car turn off? Did your steering lock up? Do you have the "check engine" light on?

First, check your oil
Second, have your battery tested.

i just changed my oil, so i know its fine, but my steering doesnt lock up,

 

[livelyjay]

Check your oil any ways. Maybe you left it a little low, maybe you didn't, better off checking it to make sure. His point of the steering wheel locking up is that the typical scenario for all those lights coming on is the car dying. If that happened your steering wheel would lock up.

 

[BlackCherry06]

It sounds like the car dropped below minimum idle. Oil pressure and alternator output drop below minimums if the car idles too low. When you stepped on the gas, of course RPMs rose and output returned to normal. Sounds to me like something caused a low idle situation when you came off boost.

 

[Outlawstar98]

BlackCheery might be right there,

(PS. ITS SNOWING!!!! MUAHHA)


But coming home from work i tryed it again, i put it in third, slamed the gas, went to 4000 RPM's and than just shifted to neutral and let it go, it went down to low idle and the battery light went on only, hm...

anyone have a clue how to fix?

 

[icespeed]

how to fix: don't do that anymore!

sorry, just had to... ok, on to the "real"...

do you have the stock bpv? or did you add a bov?

have you recently reset the ecu? Do you have a vac leak?

 

[BlackCherry06]

IAC valve (if so-equipped) isn't catching idle when the engine slows. That's about the only reason I can think of that would cause an fuel-injected engine to fall below idle. The only other cause I've ever seen was extremely dirty injectors.

 

[ChopstickHero]

do you have a leak somewhere? manifold, exhaust, pipes, bpv? if your idle dips very low, then this is a common symptom.

 

[Outlawstar98]

how to fix: don't do that anymore!

sorry, just had to... ok, on to the "real"...

do you have the stock bpv? or did you add a bov?

have you recently reset the ecu? Do you have a vac leak?

lol

my motor is stock besdies intake and hardpipes, never reset the ECU, and dont know about vac leak.

 

[icespeed]

have you ever changed the vac lines? if they're the stock ones, check for cracking. do you have a boost gauge? if so, check where you "T-ed" the vac line. check where the vac lines connect to the WGA and BPV. Also, if you're not really familiar with the car, have a local check the WGA spring to see if it is sticking. although I would guess this would cause the car to stall... doesn't hurt to check anyways.

If all the vac lines are "good", reset the ecu. There's a how to somewhere on here.

Also, if another msp is local, try switching out the MAF.

What CAI do you have? is the air temp gauge connected? (not the MAF wire harness, but the other wire, cone-shaped device next to it)

 

[Outlawstar98]

have you ever changed the vac lines? if they're the stock ones, check for cracking. do you have a boost gauge? if so, check where you "T-ed" the vac line. check where the vac lines connect to the WGA and BPV. Also, if you're not really familiar with the car, have a local check the WGA spring to see if it is sticking. although I would guess this would cause the car to stall... doesn't hurt to check anyways.

If all the vac lines are "good", reset the ecu. There's a how to somewhere on here.

Also, if another msp is local, try switching out the MAF.

What CAI do you have? is the air temp gauge connected? (not the MAF wire harness, but the other wire, cone-shaped device next to it)

ill have a look around, its snowing right now so i cant really haha, i might just cange all the vac lines with new ones, it would be a fun project! lol. isnt there one connecting to the (for hardpipe locations) the one near the raidator up top, cause i know when i was installing it, the old owner must of cut it, and put a bigger tube around it lol, i have to replace it but didnt have time yet. i think its the upper pipe, might be lower.



& i have the Turbo Hoses SHort Ram Intake

 

[icespeed]

k, i need a picture of what you're talking about.... if you have a vac line connected to the overflow on the radiator, I think I found your problem.

 

[Outlawstar98]

k, i need a picture of what you're talking about.... if you have a vac line connected to the overflow on the radiator, I think I found your problem.

The pipe that is the closest, then theres a hosed coming off at at 90 degree angle and goes into hm... let me go take a pic with my cell phone quick brb.

 

[icespeed]

the red circles should be connected in this pic....

 

[Outlawstar98]

a line is connected to that black thing with the red tape thing on it (haha)

 

[Outlawstar98]

the red circles should be connected in this pic....

tehy are connected

 

[icespeed]

ok, the black thing with the red tape is the bypass valve (aka BPV). There should be three "tubes" connected to it. Two larger ones and one really small one (about the width of a pencil). The two larger ones should be connected to the hard pipe on one side and the turbo hoses SRI on the other side. From the picture, it looks like it is connected to the hard pipe. Check the other side and make sure it is connected to the Turbo Hose SRI. The small tube should be connected to the BPV and then it connects to a "T". This "T" splits to the waste gate (going "down" towards the bottom of the engine) and the other end of the "T" runs up to the Intake manifold. check and make sure all of those are connected tightly.

 

[Outlawstar98]

ok, the black thing with the red tape is the bypass valve (aka BPV). There should be three "tubes" connected to it. Two larger ones and one really small one (about the width of a pencil). The two larger ones should be connected to the hard pipe on one side and the turbo hoses SRI on the other side. From the picture, it looks like it is connected to the hard pipe. Check the other side and make sure it is connected to the Turbo Hose SRI. The small tube should be connected to the BPV and then it connects to a "T". This "T" splits to the waste gate (going "down" towards the bottom of the engine) and the other end of the "T" runs up to the Intake manifold. check and make sure all of those are connected tightly.

ok ill do it tomarro after work, its to dark out and theres aobut a inch of snow now haha, and im hungry XD. so ill see tomarro, but i know the two bigger pipes are connected.

 

[m_V_p651]

the same thing is happening to my car but i just reset the ecu and the cel is off but when i was driving home i couldnt get pass 55 for like 3 mins than it picked up again, i need help on dis as well