NA Tech Race to 100whp per 1000cc's

what about the ecu? you plug the sensors from the klze into the new harness then it plugs into your ecu? no way, how can that be? how do you wire it to your dash?
 
Not one person I've contacted has said anything about custom mounts. So its a save assumption. All parts used in the swap will be mazda OE. But the b**** of this swap like everyone is saying is the Wiring.
 
From that statment, I am gathering that the answer to everyones' question is, YES. The KL is a direct swap with the FS.

indeed

given they both use the G-series box, theres no reason why the P5 tranny wont hook up, meaning that IF it is a direct swap, you wouldn't have any axle issues.....

it can't be a direct swap if the gearbox needs to be relocated in any way -because the mounts wont work anymore.

anyway, awesome stuff - everyone go out and buy KL's :)
 
LordWord did you read my post.(hand)


Hello, What you need for a complete swap of KLZE in your protege is:
the engine KLZE
trany from the original KLZE or a trany of 626 93-97
you gonna need complete axle of the 626 right & left 93-97

normally we put a new distributor $450.00
the wiring harness of the KL
wiring diagram of the protege
Radiator of 626
thats it



Hi,

I have a complete list in french, I won't translate it, but I'll give you a good idea of what you need.

- Complete V6 engine and transmission with the half-shaft(or joint shaft?) plus uncut wiring harness, ECU and VAF(airflow sensor)

- Radiator and piping, either a MX-6 one or our custom aluminium V6 radiator for Protege(made by Ron Davis). If you use a MX-6 rad, you'll need to make some brackets. Our V6 rad fit bolt-on.

Everything fits bolt-on, you'll need to adapt the wiring to the dash harness and fuse box. You'll also need to adapt fuel line and exhaust. It's all pretty easy.
Two things won't work or do strange things, the tach and the temp gauge, so get after-market ones.
 
haha if the swap is feasible, i bet every1 will start going out and dropping KL's in their cars just like how people do wit the sr20's and those honda engines. very interesting discovery being that it took quite a while for some1 to make it known of how easy it can be.

has any1 on the board actually pulled off a KL swap other than those people in the other countries?
 
Nope, all in canadia. DOMSPUN was on this board for a while. Im sure its been done before in the states just dont think they are on this board.
 
ooo i see. well every1 should start making their swaps so i can admire this awesome accomplishment xD

i'm sure the turbo guys will be jealous hehe
 
Oh this kinda slipped my mind(hand)..............

Those who have a 1st gen protege.....
I direct you to this little tid bit of info....

:-)
 
In the end, I havent done this yet. I getting the information from someone else. So if there is a magic bolt that this cant be done with out, I dont know what it is. But from what the few people that Im in contact with are telling is that this is a bolt in swap mechanically. as far as all the other systems....electrical,hydrualic,cooling...etc I dont know yet.
 
Yeah i read your post - i'm just struggling to understand WHY you need to change the tranny.

The reason you'd have to change the axles would be that the 626 tranny will have different splines.

the bolt pattern for the P5 trans should be the same, so it should hook straight up.


at least, thats the theory....:$
 
ooo i see. well every1 should start making their swaps so i can admire this awesome accomplishment xD

i'm sure the turbo guys will be jealous hehe

no reason why the turbo guys wouldn't follow our lead, and start dropping boosted KL's into their cars...then they will have no need to be jealous :P
 
If it uses a tranny of the same code, it should go... I met a guy once who swapped an FSDE in a 626 out for a KLZE (too bad I lost his number)... and considering that a friend with a popped FSDE swapped straight to a 626 block indicates that the mounting points shouldn't be all that dissimilar (if at all).
 
Transmission case is different. Internals are the same IIRC....... so it may be a diffferent bolt pattern.
 
Which why I have been saying to just get a donor manual V6 MX-6 or 626 and everything is right there.
 
If Im doing a complete rebuild of the engine, mileage really isnt a concern right?
 
If Im doing a complete rebuild of the engine, mileage really isnt a concern right?

no, but a few things are a concern;

You should look into magnafluxing and sonic testing of the block. Its not cheap, and if it carries with it bad news, you are stuck with a block that mightn't be up to scratch, but it'll essentially reveal any micro fractures in the block, or weak areas which may become an issue if you over bore then push the hell out of the engine (which lets be honest, you're going to do, right?)

You should also be looking at sleeving, especially if you are going to push the displacement out to 2.7L

I'd also stay away from any engine which has been blown up... as there may be some irreparable damage that will plague you even after you get the thing running again.


theres some good (v8 oriented) stuff here: http://www.grapeaperacing.com/ (currently down, but looks to be a temporary thing)...

its got loads of info about the do's and don'ts of building, as well as intake manifold design, cam design and other useful topics. Sure alot of it is for inferior pushrod designed engines BUT the lions share of it still rings true for modern engines......

worth reading over as a good primer, although it'll likely raise more questions than it answers - i have found those tech articles as a good starting point for other areas of research.
 
Well what I'm lookin at as an option is if I can find a higher mileage engine/chasis with everthing there, it would save some money. all depends on the condition though. Unless I find a nice deal on a chasis with a blown motor I could use for the other parts needed. I mean usually a Low Milage KL can be had for 300-700 US

Its to bad I dont have access to ultrasonic testing equipment(like every normal person should....lol) I'd actuall be able to do the testing myself. Was trained at my last job, for testing welds.....
 
man i dont have internet for one weekend and all this information pops up... awesome... this is going great... w/o internet... i was going around shops here locally and found a mechanic for the job... he works with rotaries more than anything but he knows a lot about the Mazda motor... especially the KL and would be interested to do this job, thus he said he'll do it cheap... he was telling me about maybe putting the MX-3 1.8V6 motor in there... but it won't have as much power...... if i'm putting a V6... im sacrificing the I4's gas mileage, so i would like the power.... but is there a good choice in the 1.8V6?
 
I've updated the original post - linking BinoMP5's and jimmysuites build threads.

BinoMP5: I would probably still consider the KLZE for the reasons i stated in your thread - its been done before, and its going to make the car that much more fun to drive ;) - unless you have a reason for trying something different (be that for fuel economy, to lower the target horsepower, or just for the sake of being different - which is ok too!), i'd stick with the bigger motor and overbore...... relatively large cube mazda engine with the ability to rev it's balls off is an NA tuner's dream come true!
 

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