Stock Valve Springs?

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MSP T-Grey
How far have people pushed the stock valve springs?


My head is getting ported and polished /valve job. The guy doing the work recomended upgrading the vavle springs while he was in there from stock to something better. I'm sticking with the stock cams and i dont plan on going much over 300whp. Any input would be apreaciated.

Only valve springs/retainers i have found are on *************.com going for $395. Anyone know of any others?
 
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So i got Dual Spring SuperTech Valve springs courtesy of *************.com.

Next question would be fuel pump. My buddy has a barely used Walbro 255. Is there a cheap Install Kit i could get for that to put in my speed? Fuel pumps are cheap enough i could just buy a new one but saving a few bucks would be nice.
 
The fuel pumps on these things are pretty hefty to begin with. I wouldn't worry about upgrading it. Some have gone to the 255 walbro's and actually lost fuel pressure.

I also don't know why you would need upgraded springs and retainers unless you plan on reving it out to like 9k. And to do that you're going to need a standalone. Are you building a drag car or something here? If not, don't bother with them. I haven't heard of anyone breaking anything in the top end of these engines. The stock springs and retainers are more than enough for 300hp.
 
Well the fuel pump would be free but if its not worth putting in then i wont bother.

My head is getting pulled apart for valve job and port/polish. The guy is already in there and I figured i might as well strengthen the top end for large amounts of boost one day. For now its my project dailey driver so i have to stick with the mpi tuner till i want to go crazy. I wouldnt be able to pass inspection in MA with a standalone.
 
The sorings are fine until they cause a valve to float, then you have a blown motor. I'd rather be safe than sorry if your going to build just do it once and be done with it. Good luck man.
 
The sorings are fine until they cause a valve to float, then you have a blown motor. I'd rather be safe than sorry if your going to build just do it once and be done with it. Good luck man.

Those were my exact thoughts, thanks man.

My block should be in soon and the head should be done a week after christmas. Cant wait to get this thing together.
 
lol! thats for damn sure!

but for real, what are you going to do becuase u do not want to be replacing it every time you go for a spin


Well I will turn the boost down to 14psi or so and not use the juice.

Ya my car will make lots of power and all, but the drivetrain is my weak point right now. I will just have to make sure I trailer it to the strip. I'm not into street racing, as my car sticks out in my area. Cops are dicks around here.
 
I plan on having over 400 whp on just boost and 600hp
I will beleive this when I see it.
2oo Shot of nitrous is no small feat..Especially for this motor.
And there are not too many Pro's running near 400HP..G/L in your Endeavor.
 
Honestly if you put a lot of money into your motor already valve springs cant hurt. Cost more money to fix the motor if a spring fails then it would be to install new ones now.
 
My Buddys uncle owns a machine shop so i'm getting a pretty sweet deal. He got a new port machine that when doing a typical 5 angle valve job it will actually put more of a radius down rather then just cut in angles. Can't wait to see how it comes out. Supposed to be a little better so we will see.

I'll find out the name of the place and let you know if your interested.
 
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I already have a speedcircuit stage 2 head and im getting custom cams from integral made as we speak.Let me know how everything turns out.
 
Kooldino is doing my block and head and said the same thing stronger springs will rob you of power by making the cams harder to turn unless you're built to rev to 9000.
 
I'd rather lose a little hp than damage the motor, it'll give you peace of mind to rev it out a little further. And it's more for a built motor anyways, who would run a built head but leave the fs block stock. I've floated valves before on other cars and I'd rather be safe, it completely shattered a piston and left nothing but the rod and a broken sleeve.
 
I'd rather lose a little hp than damage the motor, it'll give you peace of mind to rev it out a little further. And it's more for a built motor anyways, who would run a built head but leave the fs block stock. I've floated valves before on other cars and I'd rather be safe, it completely shattered a piston and left nothing but the rod and a broken sleeve.


Thats excatly why i bought valve springs. I plan on cranking up the turbo till i get my desired resaults so its not a big deal in my eyes.
 
http://www.nhra.com/dragster/1999/issue02/Tech_Speaking.html

"Several misconceptions about valve springs influence racers to make poor decisions. A customer who says, "I don't need good springs because I'm running stock valves," is badly mistaken. Steel valves are heavy, and adequate spring pressure is absolutely essential to control their motion. A valve's inertia increases with the square of the engine speed, so even a small increase in rpm requires significantly more spring pressure to maintain valvetrain stability.

In fact, too little spring pressure is almost always the root cause of valvetrain failures. We spent a year studying valve springs using an Optron, a sophisticated electronic device that can precisely record valve motion and reveal valve float. We learned some shocking truths about valvetrain behavior at high rpm. Even with a relatively mild camshaft profile, the valves bounce on their seats before they close. If the spring is too light, the valve bounces uncontrollably. The valve hits the seat, rebounds, hangs in the chamber a while, then bounces erratically several more times. Imagine how hard this is on the valve and the rest of the valvetrain!

Another excuse I've heard for not using stiff valve springs is that they take more horsepower to compress. My reply is that each spring stores energy, and for every valve that is opening, another one is closing. Anyone who has been whacked by a torque wrench while turning a crankshaft can testify that the valve springs exert considerable force on the closing ramps! I have never installed stiffer valve springs on an engine and lost power; the improvement in valvetrain dynamics more than offsets whatever additional power is required to overcome the springs' resistance."


However, you still need to match the springs to your application.
 
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