Can you run 10W-30 in our MS3 Engines?

Agreed stick with 5w30. There was another thread on this and basically the NA cars use 5w20 and the T uses 5w30. Why would Mazda bother telling you to use a different oil between 2 2.3's of the same year. I am not 100% on the break downs of motor oil but why not just use what they suggest.

Fuel economy... If you started using 5/20 in your MS3, you would gain 1 to 2 mpg average. Ford did this same s*** on the Lightining in 2003. CAFE standards went up, so Ford uses thinner oil to meet the MPG regulations.

I use 0/30 in the truck, but its still a 30 weight. I wont use a 20 water weight :)
 
It's not just manuals that are wrong. Computer references in most shops come up wrong too. I have had my oil changed 5 times now (five different shops because no one has done it right yet) and every one of them tried to put in 5-20, even the dealership, because the parts guy sent out the wrong stuff. I caught one shop about to mix oils. They had six quarts of what I wanted, they were just mixed up on the shelves and the moron didn't notice the different color bottles. As much as I hate the hassle of bringing in the old oil for disposal, I'm going to go back to doing my own oil changes.

Dealership tried that on me as well. Big letters were printed on my Work Order that said " Customer insists on using 5/30 opposed to dealer recommended 5/20 "... I called the Mazda regional service manager and had that corrected real quick. Sad thing is my dealer is a certified mazdaspeed one.
 
Ultimately if you live in a warm climate or if your summers are extremely hot, it would be beneficial to run 10w instead of 5w...
 
5W30 and 10W30 have the same high temp operating viscosity. The difference is the flow at cold start up. So unless you live in a climate where cold start ups approach temps to -30 F are an issue; using 10W30 will not cause lubrication issues.
 
But 5w30 is the absolute most common oil avalible so why would anyone bother changing to something else?
 
But 5w30 is the absolute most common oil avalible so why would anyone bother changing to something else?

I asked the question because my local tuner shop (Titan Motorsports) does not actively stock 5W-30. They said there is no market for it here; 10W-30 is the most sort after grade. I have to special order the 5W-30 and wait 2-3 weeks for it... :rolleyes: (pissed)
 
^^^warner climate^^^

If you lived in the desert, you wouldn't find any 5w either!

I guess...thats why I was asking if there would be no issues using the 10W-30...:confused:

I'll stick with the 5W-30 for my next oil change since I already ordered it.
Maybe the next one I will use 10W-30...by then I should have enough rational to justify the use.
 
10W30 is too thick of an oil to be using.. the reason i say this is because of the rod bearings. 0-5/30 is fine to use, but going higher on an engine with such tight tolerances is asking for problems. It will take you about 30,000 miles to see the negative results of using it. Remeber how much oil gets trapped in the head at high rpm...

uhhh 5w30 and 10w30 are the same thickness at operating temp so it doesnt really matter which you use. the 5w30 is just alittle thinner when its cold so it will spread faster during warm up, which is better for these new close tolerance motors. both are fine just depends on the weather conditions where u live should determine the best type of oil. usually the thinner oil for people up north and the 10w30 for down south were its warmer.
 
I'd go ahead and take their word for it. Do they have any plans on stocking up parts or doing some fabs for the Speed3? I mean, I know its not a MkIV or a Porsche or Skyline, but still, one can hope.

Nah, they didn't say much about the car... They're nice guys, but a little too full of themselves...in a nice way though...
 
Nah, they didn't say much about the car... They're nice guys, but a little too full of themselves...in a nice way though...

Well, I think they've earned it, lol. Would be nice if they did, then I can hold it over my buddy with an IS300. 2JZ? Big deal. I have Titan parts too, lol.
 
5W30 and 10W30 have the same high temp operating viscosity. The difference is the flow at cold start up. So unless you live in a climate where cold start ups approach temps to -30 F are an issue; using 10W30 will not cause lubrication issues.

Wanna bet money on that? Ive got a spun rod bearing that proves otherwise out of my 4.6 Cobra which has identical oil holes as a 2.3 engine.(yes)
 
uhhh 5w30 and 10w30 are the same thickness at operating temp so it doesnt really matter which you use. the 5w30 is just alittle thinner when its cold so it will spread faster during warm up, which is better for these new close tolerance motors. both are fine just depends on the weather conditions where u live should determine the best type of oil. usually the thinner oil for people up north and the 10w30 for down south were its warmer.

Use 10-30 than my friend and report your findings down the road... If you placed a plexi oil pan on your car, ran the car on the dyno to max rpm's and saw how much oil was left in the pan from using 10-30, i think you would go back to 5-30... Either way i dont care what you do, its your car. Youre going to do the most damage to bearings during startup anyhow while the oil is cold with much thicker oil.
 
So you're blaming a spun rod bearing on the thicker oil?? That's retarded..

Yup, thats is exactly what im doing mr expert engine builder... Changed to a 10-30 oil and bam, spun it... and its not retarded if you know anything about engines. If your oil return holes in the head are a certain diameter, the thicker oil gets trapped in the head and doesnt drain quickly enough back to the pan. But, im sure you know this...(jerkit)
 
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First off... I know it can happen... but you sound like it was only the oil... my reference to being retarded was you are probably running some aftermarket part (like a higher than stock capacity pan) or something that caused the issue.

I too am in the mustang community, but on the 5.0 side...

Lessoned learned.... 4.6's suck ass!!!
 
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First off... I know it can happen... but you sound like it was only the oil... my reference to being retarded was you are probably running some aftermarket part (like a higher than stock capacity pan) or something that caused the issue.

I too am in the mustang community, but on the 5.0 side...

Lessoned learned.... 4.6's suck ass!!!

Big difference going from a roller motor to a modular. Trust me, back in the early 90's i was running 10s side by side with Gene Deputy, Stormin Norman and Nitrous Pete.. Since modulars are very close to what the 2.3 DISI is, im just forewarning anyone who has a tickle to use thicker oil. Be cautioned.
 
you will get an argument either way.. i know a petro chem blending engineer who runs 15w-40 in his sti and keeps them for over 100,000 miles and beats on it and i know people who have had awesome luck with a 0w-20...i know one thing thinner oil =more wear on motor and better mpg...i run 5-40 castrol syntec in the winter and 10w-30 brad penn gt1 green race oil in the summer haha really good oil
 
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