jimmysuite
Member
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5
My motor is being ripped from my car at this very moment. My goal is not 200whp, however. 10.4:1 j-spec pistons, twiggy cams and adj. cam gears ftw!! microtech and wide band soon to follow!
NA Tech Race to 100whp per 1000cc's
- Thread starter LordWorm
- Start date
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- 03' Mazda Protege 5
"Lucky!! Gosch!!!" Will you have to overboar your piston cylinders to get the pistons with that kind of compression in? Or will they fit in stock?
jimmysuite
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
those pistons come stock in some 2.0l engines in japan only. got them from corksport.com
jimmysuite
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
really not that high of compression i guess... stock fsde is 9.1:1, they are available from corksport at stock bore, .25 and .5mm overbore.
GAH! how long have you been plannning this?!?! i decided to do the same thing! check out my thread to see my inspiration and stuff... this'll be cool if we both do it... but then your like... wtf i wont be the only one!!:mad: gotta love that KL ZE motor...
if u want to be the only one that bad... i'll drop a 20b in there(drive2)
i wish(braindead
and........
hows this for an intake manifold
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next week when i am home from college i will be installing the protegegarage manifold in my car and the split second afc. i already have a map, so when i get my final map down ill show everyone.
i know NA cars do not benifit as much as turbod cars with afc's unless the car has advanced timming. soooo, im taking a risk and trying out the afc and mp3 ecu combo and hopefully i get a decent gain.
the intake manifold i am not to worried about. if you do not have the supporting bolt ons for the 626 intake manifold, i feel it would be useless, but if you do have the bolt ons, i think there is going to be a good solid gain. espically when i lean out the car. im hoping for a decent gain on this set up. i wish i had a dyno though to see what kind of numbers i will be pushing.
i know NA cars do not benifit as much as turbod cars with afc's unless the car has advanced timming. soooo, im taking a risk and trying out the afc and mp3 ecu combo and hopefully i get a decent gain.
the intake manifold i am not to worried about. if you do not have the supporting bolt ons for the 626 intake manifold, i feel it would be useless, but if you do have the bolt ons, i think there is going to be a good solid gain. espically when i lean out the car. im hoping for a decent gain on this set up. i wish i had a dyno though to see what kind of numbers i will be pushing.
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- 03' Mazda Protege 5
hows this for an intake manifold[/QUOTE]
Has anybody tried this IM or heard anything about it? It looks pretty bad ass! It is just a one piece intake manifold kind of like what you see on Hondas and so on. It gets rid of the whole lower plennum of are stock intake manifold, that would free up a bit of room in are engine bays.
Has anybody tried this IM or heard anything about it? It looks pretty bad ass! It is just a one piece intake manifold kind of like what you see on Hondas and so on. It gets rid of the whole lower plennum of are stock intake manifold, that would free up a bit of room in are engine bays.
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- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
Its been down quite a few times already. Especially in Canadia. and a few turboed KL proteges....
Im pretty sure this is the same one that PG is offering, also I think this a picture of a honda manifold.
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on the contrary, our NA motors will get quite a big jump from fuel control.
I'm running a very passive ignition curve at the moment (i dare say more passive than stock...i haven't had the car on a dyno so i'm keeping the timing safe to prevent knock) and i pulled 6 tenths off my quartermile...
our stock fuel maps are absolutely crap.... one of the single biggest gains you will get on the stock motor is the ability to control fuel.
Our motors do love timing though, so if you can get some sort of control over ignition advance, you'll be sitting pretty
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- 02' Protege ES (Gone)
16' Mazda 6 sport manual
I am seeing a trend in other Forums when its come to NA(flame2).
Im going off-forum to do R+D. And there is not much to go on. Bits here and there. But pretty much everyone is being seduced by the Hair-Dryer. and even I find myself straying. I'm glad we have sanctuary here.....lol
Im going off-forum to do R+D. And there is not much to go on. Bits here and there. But pretty much everyone is being seduced by the Hair-Dryer. and even I find myself straying. I'm glad we have sanctuary here.....lol
people will always be seduced by forced induction.... its easy power....
as yoda says.... the dark side is "quicker, easier, more seductive"
just remember, they may make more power, they may have spent less money, but nothing will bring a smile to your face like an absolute animal of an NA monster
on the contrary, our NA motors will get quite a big jump from fuel control.
I'm running a very passive ignition curve at the moment (i dare say more passive than stock...i haven't had the car on a dyno so i'm keeping the timing safe to prevent knock) and i pulled 6 tenths off my quartermile...
our stock fuel maps are absolutely crap.... one of the single biggest gains you will get on the stock motor is the ability to control fuel.
Our motors do love timing though, so if you can get some sort of control over ignition advance, you'll be sitting pretty
im glad to here you say that. i had a question on the map. my wideband tells me that at wot around 2000 rpms to 4000 rpms, the car is still in closed loop going between 15 and 14 afr's, then after 4000 rpms, the afc's go down to 10 all the way redline (going into open loop). so leaning out the ratio's is a must.
i wanted to start the leaning out -14 hg on the map. when the the car is at -14 hg, what happens? does the afc make open loop kick in at -14g, then i change the afc's accordingly or does open loop never happen and i just richen up closed loop? making a map is easy, but the problem is i do not know what happens with the swtiching of the maps.
what did you do with your fuel maps? any input would help because it seems like i am the only one that is putting the split second afc on a NA protege. i looked at the turbo map and it just started leaning out after 1 psi. thats easy though because for the mazdaspeed protege, open loop kicks at boost. im assuming my map will be similar to the supermap, but instead at starting at 1 psi, i start it at -14 to 0 hg.
help!
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I've never tuned with your AFC - so i can't be sure how the tuning software works...
Sounds like you are on the right track though... you want to try and stop the car being lean on closed loop, and tune the pig rich open loop leaner...
I've got my car tuned to run on the safe side of lean when cruising, then tuned for optimum power at WOT.... this gives me awesome fuel economy when on grocery getting duties, and a fantastic turn of power when you press the loud pedal.
Head over to the tuning forum and see if there are any guys who are well versed in your AFC - they will certainly be more helpful than I
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- Blue MP3/06 MPV
Splitsecond offers a TFC, timing and fuel controller. Anyone know how this differs from a complete standalone like microtech or haltech?
not 100% sure...but there are 2 types of computer which can handle timing and fuel....
piggy back and stand alone.
microtech and haltech (with the exception of the interceptor) fall into the stand alone category. This means the after market ecu takes completely control over the fuel system and ignition timing.
piggy back units intercept signals to and from the ecu and modify them in order to a) alter the output to injectors and the ignition system, and/or b) give the ecu false readings so it compensates the fuel and timing maps...
*generally speaking* piggy back units are inferior because they are fundimentally tied to the existing ecu... stand alones usually offer more functionality, but at the expense of some features the OEM ecu may offer...
Well of course it should make more power right?
Its not all that simple unfortunately.....The issue with the stroker is the poor rod ratio we already have will be made poorer than it already is. Rod ratio is related to side loading on the cylinder walls, and more importantly, piston acceleration. The shorter the road ratio, the higher the piston acceleration. Just to give you an idea, we already run some pretty wild piston acceleration.
Going to a longer stroke would compound the problem, and you'll be left with a motor that simply wont rev.
highly strung small capacity NA motors rely on RPM to achieve number - so whilst a stroked FS may be an absolute torque monster, you're total overall engine output is going to be severely hampered by the fact that you can't get the motor to spin...
Almost paradoxically, you are better off REDUCING the stroke and lengthening the rods than you are increasing the stroke....
whats the problem with short rods? i dont know about everyone else, i like these torquey engines. there fun to drive. the longer rods will give us a higher hp, but the torque level will be much lower. everyone might as well buy a civic si if everybody only cares about hp.
but then again, having high horsepower from a NA inline 4, i think this is the only way this can be achieved, so whatever....lol
but then again, having high horsepower from a NA inline 4, i think this is the only way this can be achieved, so whatever....lol
