OBX vs. Thunder Header

V

velothree

:
2014 Mazda 3 i Grand Touring
Considering one of these and found information about Thunder headers on their website, but OBX doesn't have much info on their website. Anyone know the wall thickness on SS tubing of the OBX? The Thunder with a wall thickness of 2mm seems a nice sturdy product that will be a little quieter than others.

Also saw an ad on line for SLS Catted mid pipes. Any opinions? Not sure if they're stainless.
 
OK, lets try this. Are the OBX headers good quality, thick wall tubing? I'm concerned because I had headers on a V8 car long ago and bought cheap ones and was disappointed in the sound. You could hear the exhaust pinging when coming out of the engine. I found out later, I should have gotten the Hooker headers which were thicker walled. So.....looking for the best quality headers for my P5 and would like some suggestions.
 
does the thunder header avoid the problems with rubbing the oil pan that the OBX has been reported to have? that's my only concern as from reading numerous threads both seem to have good build quality.
 
How about a dyno for the Thunder header? I've searched many threads and haven't found a single dyno for it. I'd like to be able to compare header to header the gains and quality.
 
I curently have the obx header on my car, which is an auto, and it is hitting the oil pan. Also i was dissapointed with the loss of low end TQ, but an udp would fix that. There are many people that have had no trouble at all with their obx header. I guess it is a hit or miss kinda deal.
 
westerboyz said:
I curently have the obx header on my car, which is an auto, and it is hitting the oil pan.
Click to expand...


Sounds like you need new motor mounts! my Thunder header ddi the same thing when my mount wore out. Now that I replaced them I have a ton of room between the dp and oil pan.
 
westerboyz said:
I curently have the obx header on my car, which is an auto, and it is hitting the oil pan. Also i was dissapointed with the loss of low end TQ, but an udp would fix that. There are many people that have had no trouble at all with their obx header. I guess it is a hit or miss kinda deal.
Click to expand...

maybe you dont understand, theres always torque loss with a header, no matter what header you put on. but its made up for in the higher rpms.
 
Unless its a very long-runner header....
4Runner's with 38" header's tend to be pretty darned torquey.

Longer runners=lower power band. Shorter=higher. Where do you want it and whats available?
 
Yup i "understand" that there would be a loss of TQ with the header, im saying that i dont like it. I like the TQ for everyday driving; im more of conservative driver and dont like the auto downshifting alot. Annoys me more than anything. And as for the motor mounts my p5 has only 60k on it.
 
westerboyz said:
Yup i "understand" that there would be a loss of TQ with the header, im saying that i dont like it. I like the TQ for everyday driving; im more of conservative driver and dont like the auto downshifting alot. Annoys me more than anything. And as for the motor mounts my p5 has only 60k on it.
Click to expand...


I'm sorry but seriously milage doesn't mean squat on how your motor mounts or timing belt. Rubber deteriorates with age man.
 
yup, my dad works on blount island operating those big container cranes. Oh and how bout them Jags. Sry to get off topic. How would i check to see if my motor mounts are bad? And if so are they dif. to replace and $?
 
Most of the thunder gains are from the loss of the first cat... the removal of the cat produces a good hump of torque.

But from where I'm sitting on it, it doesn't make an optimal amount of low-end torque, for me. I'm about to experiment with a longer 4-2-1 set from another Chinese company, and I'll be able to get a dyno comparison for the two.

Against completely stock, it feels like a good hump at 3000 rpm and about 4-5 at redline... but a set of longer tubes with a better merge collector (the Thunder has a short, restrictive merge) should do much more.
 
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