TurboXS Downpipe $299.00
- Thread starter Mr.Jake
- Start date
civic si hb
Member
www.cp-e.com
Member
I hope you don't see the following as me flaming you because that isn't my intention. I just wanted to explain why we make our products the way we do.
If your definition of one-piece downpipe is a single mandrel bent pipe, then you aren't going to see any one-piece downpipes unfortunately. The first bend is so tight that there isn't enough room for the clamps on the mandrel bender. So at the very least you need one cut and weld point there. The other place that requires a cut and weld is the flex pipe. We include a very large and very generous flex pipe partially because of how much this motor flexes under load. So that's two places where you absolutely need to cut and weld. There's just no way around that
So how do cracks start? Fatigue cracks are the result of cyclic loading; either mechanical or thermal. Exhaust components most typically fail from uneven thermal cycling, which basically means that uneven expansion or contraction of the material due to temperature variations induce cyclic internal stresses. Eventually these stresses fatigue the material and micro-cracks begin to form, which will propagate if the loading cycles continue. Now, if the welds are crappy, then sure, they'll create micro-cracks before the actual pipe does. But as long as the parts fit together well, you properly control the heat input of the welding arc, and use quality filler, there's absolutely no reason why the weld would begin cracking before the stainless steel pipe does.
But cutting and welding is okay if it's done properly. All of our hard parts carry a lifetime warranty against cracks or premature failure. We can do this because we use proper welds for the intended application, so we know that the stainless pipe will fail before our welds ever will. For instance, the first cut and weld between the flange and the cat is actually a slip fit. We do this because welding a slip fit is much stronger than a butt-weld. Moreover, the joint is TIG welded. Little details like these are often overlooked by our customers, but we obsess over details like these. If we're going to be offering lifetime warranties then we need to believe in our products!
Maybe you've heard of Full Race? They arguably make some of the highest quality exhaust manifolds in the country, yet their primaries feature cut and welds throughout. Notice how many intermediate cut and welds they have in this manifold:
So I don't think its fair to say that welds are prime places for leaks and crack propagation, especially if they're done correctly. In fact, which sounds more robust to you: A proper TIG weld, or a composite gasket pressed between two flanges?
U thinking of the downpipe and racepipe? PM me as I'm interested...
civic si hb
Member
Infantrylowlife
Member
How much louder is the full system compared to the stock?
MS3-oholic
Member
Have you installed the downpipe yet? Any pics of the install or vids? I am diffinitely buying this downpipe along with the Corksport CBE.
I will do a right up here in about an hour or two when I get freed up a little at work. I did take a video clip but it shows my license plate. I see people covering theres up when they do videos or pics. Do I need to do that??? The install took about 5 hours and that was with a lift that we rented. Biggest pain was getting the stock one out. Love the new sound and the butt dyno is more than happy. I will be doing a dyno pull with in a couple weeks to see what I am pulling now here is my I have done so far.
TurboXS Downpipe
-TurboXS Racepipe
-TurboXS Hybrid Bov
-Mazdaspeed CAI
-Debadged
-Mazda logos painted black
-20% Tint all round
-Side molding removed
-Boost gauge custom fitted in driver side airvent
TurboXS Downpipe
-TurboXS Racepipe
-TurboXS Hybrid Bov
-Mazdaspeed CAI
-Debadged
-Mazda logos painted black
-20% Tint all round
-Side molding removed
-Boost gauge custom fitted in driver side airvent
civic si hb
Member
Here is a write up my buddy and I did already check it out. On there I am Spatty (jake) My buddy has a 281Hp and 361Tq speed6 was the one who wrote this enjoy. If you have any questions let me know.
Yep. We just installed a TurboXS downpipe on Jake's (Spatty) Speed3. For those of you thinking about doing this, be warned, it's a pain in the ass lol. Myself (Brandon), Spatty (Jake) & Bobopud (Patrick) went to Autobayz in Littleton and rented a hydraulic lift to speed the process up... Even with the use of a lift, it took us about 5 hours, but we had a few snags along the way. The first one was we (me actually lol) almost stripped one of the nuts holding the mouth of the downpipe to the turbine housing, specifically the lower nut closest to the motor, as it was a total pain to get to and break loose. Note to anyone considering this- when breaking loose nuts on the downpipe/turbine use a 6 point socket (14mm), preferably with a 1/2" driver and plenty of extensions & swivels, as using a 12 point socket can easily strip the nuts.
Beyond that, we had to "walk" his lower O2 sensor back and forth so it wouldn't strip (which it didn't!), and TurboXS sent the wrong size gasket, so we ended up putting it on a vice and drilling it out a little to make it fit lol. Like I said it took us about 5 hours, although if everything would have went smoothly, I think with the lift, it could have been done in about 3.5 to 4 hours if all went smoothly. This is the second one I've done on these cars (first was on my Speed6), and I can honestly say I never want to install one again, as it's a pain, and I'm pretty much sore all over lol, which I'm sure Jake is as well.
Now for impressions.... after reseting the ECU and driving the car for a few minutes, at first we were like "I guess it pulls harder... kinda", then after Patrick left and driving the car for a few more minutes all I have to say is HOLY s*** that thing pulls hard! It made a very very noticeable difference! I can honestly say I didn't expect it to make that big of a difference. I would say from a roll, Jake's car is probably very close to mine in terms of raw acceleration. It's also damn throaty now, much lower grumble than I was expecting, sounds great, and has that wonderful "no more cats smell"!! LOL.
Like I said, I'll give anyone pointers, but my back is killing me and I really don't want to ever have to do this again. I can say with certainty though, aside from the downpipe/turbine bolts being harder to get to/break loose, swapping DP's on a Speed3 is easier than a Speed6. As in a MS6 the DP has to be pulled out from the top, which involves removing the lower motor mount as well as the side motor mount, and rocking the motor forward to pull the downpipe out, whereas the MS3's DP came right out the bottom, without too much of a problem, no need to remove a motor mount at all. This mod is not for the faint of heart, attempt it only if you feel comfortable working on cars in general... it's not overly difficult, but very tedious, and busting bolts loose is pretty labor intensive.
Yep. We just installed a TurboXS downpipe on Jake's (Spatty) Speed3. For those of you thinking about doing this, be warned, it's a pain in the ass lol. Myself (Brandon), Spatty (Jake) & Bobopud (Patrick) went to Autobayz in Littleton and rented a hydraulic lift to speed the process up... Even with the use of a lift, it took us about 5 hours, but we had a few snags along the way. The first one was we (me actually lol) almost stripped one of the nuts holding the mouth of the downpipe to the turbine housing, specifically the lower nut closest to the motor, as it was a total pain to get to and break loose. Note to anyone considering this- when breaking loose nuts on the downpipe/turbine use a 6 point socket (14mm), preferably with a 1/2" driver and plenty of extensions & swivels, as using a 12 point socket can easily strip the nuts.
Beyond that, we had to "walk" his lower O2 sensor back and forth so it wouldn't strip (which it didn't!), and TurboXS sent the wrong size gasket, so we ended up putting it on a vice and drilling it out a little to make it fit lol. Like I said it took us about 5 hours, although if everything would have went smoothly, I think with the lift, it could have been done in about 3.5 to 4 hours if all went smoothly. This is the second one I've done on these cars (first was on my Speed6), and I can honestly say I never want to install one again, as it's a pain, and I'm pretty much sore all over lol, which I'm sure Jake is as well.
Now for impressions.... after reseting the ECU and driving the car for a few minutes, at first we were like "I guess it pulls harder... kinda", then after Patrick left and driving the car for a few more minutes all I have to say is HOLY s*** that thing pulls hard! It made a very very noticeable difference! I can honestly say I didn't expect it to make that big of a difference. I would say from a roll, Jake's car is probably very close to mine in terms of raw acceleration. It's also damn throaty now, much lower grumble than I was expecting, sounds great, and has that wonderful "no more cats smell"!! LOL.
Like I said, I'll give anyone pointers, but my back is killing me and I really don't want to ever have to do this again. I can say with certainty though, aside from the downpipe/turbine bolts being harder to get to/break loose, swapping DP's on a Speed3 is easier than a Speed6. As in a MS6 the DP has to be pulled out from the top, which involves removing the lower motor mount as well as the side motor mount, and rocking the motor forward to pull the downpipe out, whereas the MS3's DP came right out the bottom, without too much of a problem, no need to remove a motor mount at all. This mod is not for the faint of heart, attempt it only if you feel comfortable working on cars in general... it's not overly difficult, but very tedious, and busting bolts loose is pretty labor intensive.
civic si hb
Member
Very nice write up thanks for sharing it with us.
So it seems that fitment of the product was fine and most to all of the issues really came from the downpipe to the turbine. I'm going to be ordering this same set up very soon.
p.s. still in for vids!!!
Ya most of the issues were that. There were a lot of heat shields to take off which also took up most of the time. Once the down pipe came out the new one going in took maybe 30 mins to finish up.
Is it ok if my license plate is showing in the video I have. I see people blocking them out and was wondering if I should do that???
Is it ok if my license plate is showing in the video I have. I see people blocking them out and was wondering if I should do that???
Here is a quick little vid of me revin it up enjoy.
http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb273/Spatty07/?action=view¤t=MVI_1187.flv
http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb273/Spatty07/?action=view¤t=MVI_1187.flv
