Having issues finding Bose headunit pre-outs...

M

mghunt

Member
I de-Bose'd my Speed3 GT, I'm tapping into what used to be the INPUTs of the Bose amp. I looked at a diagram in a thread by fourthmeal at diymobileaudio.com that pointed to the pinout on the back of the headunit. To my surprise, the plugs for the MS6 and MS3 were identical. So, I assumed that the pinout was also identical. However, the wire colors were different. So, I made a note of the different wire colors and referred them to the same pin locations on the harness.

So, I connected RCA's to these pins and I only get output on 2 of the 4 output channels. One front channel and one rear channel. I have not connected an amplifier yet. I was using a pair of computer speakers to check for output.

Does anyone have any troubleshooting advice? Does anyone know, for certainty, the wiring diagram for the preouts from the Bose headunit?

Thanks,
-Mark
 
Im not too happy with my Bose system myself the damn passenger side front door is still rattling dispite telling my dealership to fix it 3 times now....
 
ccann26,
I don't think that has much to do with Bose.


Doesn't anyone have any help for me. I'm tired of yanking my seat to figure this out.

Thanks,

-Mark
 
Just wanted to share my findings...
Ends up I had one output pair wired backwards and it knocked out the front and rear on that side of the car.

If you want to add RCAs to the outputs of the bose headunit on the MS3, the pinout on the back of the radio matches that of the MS6. However, the wire colors on my MS3 were different than any of the MS6 instructions I saw.

Basically, the lineouts are sent out the back of the radio to the inputs on the bose amp, under the driver's seat. First, get a pinout diagram for the MS6. Pull out the radio, instructions also found on forums. The pinout of the preouts on the MS3 match the pinout for the MS6. There are 9 wires sent from the the "preout plug" on the back of the radio to the bose amp location. Write down the wire colors and then look under your seat. The wire colors should match. Wire your RCA's accordingly. The ninth wire is the amp turn on lead.

Still working on my install, but just wanted to share with you all.
 
mghunt said:
Just wanted to share my findings...
Ends up I had one output pair wired backwards and it knocked out the front and rear on that side of the car.

If you want to add RCAs to the outputs of the bose headunit on the MS3, the pinout on the back of the radio matches that of the MS6. However, the wire colors on my MS3 were different than any of the MS6 instructions I saw.

Basically, the lineouts are sent out the back of the radio to the inputs on the bose amp, under the driver's seat. First, get a pinout diagram for the MS6. Pull out the radio, instructions also found on forums. The pinout of the preouts on the MS3 match the pinout for the MS6. There are 9 wires sent from the the "preout plug" on the back of the radio to the bose amp location. Write down the wire colors and then look under your seat. The wire colors should match. Wire your RCA's accordingly. The ninth wire is the amp turn on lead.

Still working on my install, but just wanted to share with you all.
Click to expand...

Will you just type in the colors and their associated speakers??
 
This is the plug at the amp under the driver's seat
Read numbers from pin side of vehicle connector
FUNCTION /PIN /WIRE COLOR

Left Rear Door Spkr + /5 /WT/VT
Left Rear Door Spkr - /6 /GY/WT
Right Rear Door Spkr + /7 /WT (WT/VT at speaker)
Right Rear Door Spkr - /8 /GY (GY/WT at speaker)
Left Front Door Spkrs + /9 /WT/BK (WT at speakers)
Left Front Door Spkrs - /10 /GY/BK (GY at speakers)
Right Front Door Spkrs + /11 /WT/RD (WT at speakers)
Right Front Door Spkrs - /12 /GY/RD (GY at speakers)
Right Rear - Input /15 /WT/BU
Right Rear + Input /16 /YW/GN
Left Rear - Input /17 /YW/BU
Left Rear + Input /18 /BN/BU
Right Front - Input /19 /GN
Right Front + Input /20 /RD
Left Front - Input /21 /L.GN
Left Front + Input /22 /VT
Amp Remote /23 /BU
Constant 12 Volt /25 /RD
Subwoofer Spkr - /26 /GY/WT
Chassis Ground /29 /BK
Subwoofer Spkr + /30 /WT/BU

The front door tweeters are wired in parallel with the front door woofers
 
Last edited:
One more thing to note...It seems that the amp remote turns on with the ignition, not on and off with the headunit.
 
i tapped the pre-amp outputs from under the seat where the bose amp hooks up.

fourthmeal does not have the bose system.
 
Last edited:
this is for the connector under the driver seat (blue connector)

TOP - In order from left to right - These are the speaker outputs
grey w/ red stripe (FR-)
white w/ red stripe (FR+)
grey w/ black stripe (FL-)
white w/ black stripe (FL+)
solid grey (BR-)
solid white (BR+)
grey w/ white stripe (BL-)
white w/ purple stripe (BL+)

BOTTOM - In order from left to right - These are the inputs to the amp
solid blue (remote turn on)
solid purple (FL+)
green w/ white paint (FL-)
solid red (FR+)
solid green (FR-)
brown w/ blue stripe (BL+)
yellow w/ blue stripe (BL-)
yellow w/ green stripe (BR+)
white w/ blue stripe (BR-)
 
rattle fix -

Go to raamaudio.com and/or call Rick directly. Get a roll of Raammat, and about 4-6 yards of ensolite. Coat car as much as you can...Congratulations you now have a much quieter, and much more clean-sounding car.

The ensolite trapped in the doors will stop rattling permanently. I promise. The raammat will keep the speakers sounding like they should, and prevent distortion caused by metal resonance.

Its a worthy investment.
 
A lot of times, rattling can be caused by loose items in the door, such as wiring that doesn't have padding around it, etc.

I second the raammat/ensolite installation. It made a HUGE difference on this car. I was skeptical at first, but I could hear the difference when I had the right side done and the left side wasn't. The midbass was much cleaner and the resonances weren't disturbing the midrange as much. Not to mention, the noise level in the car was much lower. I did all four dours, the hatch, and the cargo area. Thinking about doing the floor as well.

I removed the Bose amp and connected RCA's. However, I have significant hissing. Do any of you have this problem as well?

-Mark
 
i was told there may be ground loop problems - you'd need ground loop isolator, i haven't hooked up my system yet so i don't know if i have that problem.
 
Well, I finally got my amps temporarily installed. It sounds very nice. I am still having the minor hissing problem. I plan to make my own patch cables using some microphone cable with a drain wire. I'm hoping the drain wire, connected at the source, will remove some of the noise. I wish I could wire up RCA's to a new molex right at the preouts on the back of the radio. Unfortunately, there aren't any kits with the preout connector. I think I'll cut the connector off and wire the RCA's right at the radio. The reason we have the hissing (ground loop) is most likely due to the fact that the connections are made under the seat, rather than at the source. I'm hoping to avoid using a ground loop isolator, because it isn't necessary if you don't have a ground loop. I'll try removing loops first. :)
 
IT'S NOT A BOSE HEAD UNIT/RECEIVER


mghunt said:
I de-Bose'd my Speed3 GT, I'm tapping into what used to be the INPUTs of the Bose amp. I looked at a diagram in a thread by fourthmeal at diymobileaudio.com that pointed to the pinout on the back of the headunit. To my surprise, the plugs for the MS6 and MS3 were identical. So, I assumed that the pinout was also identical. However, the wire colors were different. So, I made a note of the different wire colors and referred them to the same pin locations on the harness.

So, I connected RCA's to these pins and I only get output on 2 of the 4 output channels. One front channel and one rear channel. I have not connected an amplifier yet. I was using a pair of computer speakers to check for output.

Does anyone have any troubleshooting advice? Does anyone know, for certainty, the wiring diagram for the preouts from the Bose headunit?

Thanks,
-Mark
Click to expand...
 
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