Split-Second AFC N/A Thread

[jamesk]

o alright, that solves that problem. the last thing i want to figure out before i wanna start installing it.

the plan was to make all the cells 10 so that there would be a neutral signal. i was then going to make all the cells a number under 10 so that the maf will have a lower voltage signal and lean out the ratio.

in the u tune directions, it said the the objective was to make the trimming ratio closest to 0 as possible, but thats not for the psc1 controller we got for our cars. whats the objective with us? do we just play with different numbers and different rpms by just looking at the wideband driving around? whats the best way to tune this?

after this question, i should be done asking questions,lol

thanks maxx mazda for not giving up

 

[Maxx Mazda]

you need to dyno tune it you can't just jump in and tune it on the street.

 

[jamesk]

o ok. so do you think i should just install it on my car, set everything to 10, and install the stuff on my laptop anyway?

is there anything i can do without a dyno? i mean i do have a wideband, i thought that was the most important tool for tuning?

 

[FunkyBuddha]

Well..looks like jamesk has the head start. I'm just about to jump on the dyno on August 13th for a base run before the intake manifold goes on. I have an mp3 ecu on the way..and the AFC is in my hands..but Maxx needs to find me the CD. Will keep people updated.

 

[jamesk]

so what should i do for the time being. something has to keep me busy, lol.

i dont think there is even a dyno near me, i have to find one.

are you guys going to tune it together or get a the guy who works at the dyno shop to do it?

 

[jamesk]

i bought a serial connector to usb port for my laptop so i can program the splitsecond controller to my computer. i had to download a software for it too.

tommorow im going to buy the vaccum lines a t fittings tommorow, and after that im going to install it.

i set the fuel maps to 10 already so all i got to do is transfer it to the ecu.

i noticed there is a auto tune feature. is says in the map part, you pick 4 conners of how far you want the map to go to, and those 4 corners you pick the 4 numbers, then you press the auto tune button, it fills in the map for you. what numbers would work that i could put in the four corners?

maybe that alone would give me a gain?

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Don't auto tune.

 

[jamesk]

why did people have bad expeirence with it? the numbers did seemed to be kind of rich.

did funkybudda make his map yet? i would love to see a NA map!

 

[jamesk]

good news, i made my base map!

i called the guy at split second and he guided me through it. i told him according to my wideband, that my car runs too rich at closed loop position around 4000 rpms. he said put 10 through 500 to 4000 rpms to normal atmosphere pressure (0, since im not running boost)

at the 8000 rpm row, put 9.5 in the first column and put 9.5 in the last column.

then highlight the the column from 4000 to 8000 rpm and the rows included, then press autofill.

the autofill button allows the airfuel ratio to lean out gradually and it goes from about 10, 9.9 , 9.7, 9.6. and so on.

im going to try out this map tommorow or wednesday when i install the piggyback. ill let you know how it goes and tell everybody what inprovements i need to do.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

So now what are your AFR's under full throttle? A video would be most helpful.

 

[jamesk]

now i have a problem......

i installed the controller in my car and i got the serial connector wire to finally work for vista.

everything seemed normal when i started the car, and everything seemed to work fine. when i was rolling down the driveway my car went to the .5 psi cell, and in that column it is down for zero. the car leaned out and shut off.

i kept trying to start the car back up but the battery kept dying, so i had to jump it alot.

after it started idling, the afr would go between 17 and 16. thats too lean so i shut off the engine. i kept on loading the neutral map onto the ecu, but it would just idle to lean. the curser on the cells would move with the rpms and everything, but my car is idling to lean and i dont know why?



and i threw a check engine light

would anybody know the reason to this? im going to get some sleep now, and call splitsecond in the morning. but in the mean time, someone try to help me. thanks

 

[Aricjm15]

check all your settings, make sure it is setup for a 4cyl engine. there are a few other things you may need to change as well

I went through all of that the other day putting one of these on a mazdaspeed miata

 

[Maxx Mazda]

I had that happen to me. I think it's your primary O2 sensor gone bad.

 

[jamesk]

the guy said from splitsecond that you dont need that pink with blue strip wire to be hooked up if your na, so.

 

[Alejo_NIN]

i don't understand.
you got it to work and now you are selling it?


why?

i'm boosted, what would be the benefit of having the AFC?
i hear read alot about trimming fuel.
i need to make my car leaner, since the msp ecu is so rich.

i'm about to buy this guys AFC but i need to know the reason why he's selling it only after 2 weeks of trials.

 

[DeadGeneration]

subscizzle

 

[Maxx Mazda]

the guy said from splitsecond that you dont need that pink with blue strip wire to be hooked up if your na, so.

That's your O2 sensor wire. Hook it up.

 

[FunkyBuddha]

jamesk...are you selling it already?

 

[Alejo_NIN]

he sold it to me
it's sitting in my closet

 

[jamesk]

yea it turns out that my vista laptop sucked with the afc. i might order the aem controller if it turns out to be good.