Got my 75,000 mile service done (2016.5 CX-5)

7eregrine

The man, the myth, the legend
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Land of Cleve
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2016.5 CX5
Basically Spark Plugs. $300. OUCH. Never paying them to do that again. Got the oil changed. They wanted to do an "Induction Service". That was disappointing. Come on guys...Used to love this dealership, but they've gone downhill. Literally not a single issue. I might be willing to do that if there was any weirdness when accelerating, but no. It's perfect. Drives as good today as it did November 2016 when I drove off the lot. I am shocked at how rusted the calipers are but apparently they still work perfectly.
I do like this little video they made for me. 07953
That's cool. Passed on the filter, just bought one on Amazon when I got home.

So total repairs since I bought it: $0.
Total maintenance since Nov 16:
Pads and rotors replaced, brake fluid flushed. Oil changes religiously. Battery replaced. Rear Fiff Fluid changed once. Also had them "Lube the Slides" on the brakes at my first service. Based on a recommendation from a guy I know that is the District Manager of a western Ohio region. And now spark plugs.
72,500 miles.
 

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Yeah "Induction Service". Local dealership offers this too. I asked them about it and I guess it's really just them putting some BG additives in the gas. Like come on I can put a bottle of Techron in myself. Such a scam.
 
They're looking for the cash. My dealer actually called me via phone saying that it's been six months since my last oil change and I should urgently make an appointment. The problem is I've always done my own oil changes, never had them do a single one. Honestly, if you could change a flat tire you could change the plugs in this vehicle, it's that easy, just remove and replace and torque 'em, 15 minutes tops. .
 
Honestly, if you could change a flat tire you could change the plugs in this vehicle, it's that easy, just remove and replace and torque 'em, 15 minutes tops. .
Have to disagree a little. You need the right tools to remove. You need to be careful not to drop the plugs in and damage the tip. You need to be careful not to cross thread or over torque otherwise you'll be looking at a high repair bill.
 
Have to disagree a little. You need the right tools to remove. You need to be careful not to drop the plugs in and damage the tip. You need to be careful not to cross thread or over torque otherwise you'll be looking at a high repair bill.
A spark plug socket with a rubber insert will hold the plug in place for removal and installation. Torque wrench should be used is what I meant for torque 'em, should use that on wheel lug nuts, too. Still, not rocket science. Hell, you don't even have to gap them. But, you're right. The right tools make it easier.
 
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A spark plug socket with a rubber insert will hold the plug in place for removal and installation. Torque wrench should be used is what I meant for torque 'em, should use that on wheel lug nuts, too. Still, not rocket science. Hell, you don't even have to gap them.
Yep, I did my own spark plugs for the first time, there were a couple gotchas, but once you get it down, it's easy. Biggest problem I had was when I was trying to pull up on the unscrewed plugs and the extension would come out of the spark socket instead. So I duct tape them together and problem solved.
 
You might also want to refresh your trans fluid as a preventative maintenance. If you have an AWD, then also consider your rear diff
Forgot I actually have done that once. Forgot what mileage. This is actually the only reason I went to the dealer, to get that changed. My local indy will not do a Diff change. Dealer told me they checked it, no need to change it this time. Also had the ...slides lubed at my first service. Edited first post to reflect this.

I have done plugs many times on my Saab automobiles, and own a torque wrench. If it was the spring, summer, or September\October I probably would have told them to pound sand and done it. Any nice weekends for me are spent raking right now. My yard is a damn forest and this is my damn part time job in November.
Friggin charged me like $33 PER SPARK PLUG. That's insanity... Never again.
Re: induction service. It's not in the service manual. It was $209 for that. I do find it odd, I asked them to do the diff fluid and they said it didn't need it. Yet, want to charge me for that Induction.
 
Forgot I actually have done that once. Forgot what mileage. This is actually the only reason I went to the dealer, to get that changed. My local indy will not do a Diff change. Dealer told me they checked it, no need to change it this time. Also had the ...slides lubed at my first service. Edited first post to reflect this.

I have done plugs many times on my Saab automobiles, and own a torque wrench. If it was the spring, summer, or September\October I probably would have told them to pound sand and done it. Any nice weekends for me are spent raking right now. My yard is a damn forest and this is my damn part time job in November.
Friggin charged me like $33 PER SPARK PLUG. That's insanity... Never again.
Re: induction service. It's not in the service manual. It was $209 for that. I do find it odd, I asked them to do the diff fluid and they said it didn't need it. Yet, want to charge me for that Induction.
Induction service. I'd guess all they did was dump a bottle of BG 44k in the gas tank.
 
Basically Spark Plugs. $300. OUCH. Never paying them to do that again. Got the oil changed. They wanted to do an "Induction Service". That was disappointing. Come on guys...Used to love this dealership, but they've gone downhill. Literally not a single issue. I might be willing to do that if there was any weirdness when accelerating, but no. It's perfect. Drives as good today as it did November 2016 when I drove off the lot. I am shocked at how rusted the calipers are but apparently they still work perfectly.
I do like this little video they made for me. 07953
That's cool. Passed on the filter, just bought one on Amazon when I got home.

So total repairs since I bought it: $0.
Total maintenance since Nov 16:
Pads and rotors replaced, brake fluid flushed. Oil changes religiously. Battery replaced. Rear Fiff Fluid changed once. Also had them "Lube the Slides" on the brakes at my first service. Based on a recommendation from a guy I know that is the District Manager of a western Ohio region. And now spark plugs.
72,500 miles.
I hear you loud and clear-Glad to hear your CX-5 is running great !
- Mazda must be requiring the techs to do these videos now , because they did the same thing on my only visit - and frankly its dosent make me feel better about letting them do the work --
Im not saying here that all dealers are trying to put a shiv in your back - but on my last few basic visits- They tried to jack me up on things I didnt need also-
-- I have access to several dealers and my past experience with them " topping off the oil " - the " tech " said . oh dont worry about it , it will burn off, -- but if it was his car I guarantee it would be spec- Then they wanted $65 for a cabin filter ( filter is $10 )- takes 2 minutes to swap out , and upon doing my own oil change next time (as I historically do) , I found a value line filter and the drain bolt torqued so hard I tought I was going to rip the engine off the motor mounts - So on a simple oil change , they overfilled the oil , over-torqued the drain plug and used a value line oil filter -- My guess is the oil was NOT 0-W20 w/moly OE Mazda oil either --- I Re-learned a lesson that was the reason , I DIY on everything - and buy tools I know I will need again - spark-plug wrench, torque wrench etc. -
If you want it done right , do it yourself - and I only let them do it because it was $49 and I was in a hurry -- For whatever reason we now live in a world with spectacular engineering and changing a spark plug requres a Phd ? please - Use common sense as displayed here - , but dont be afraid to DIY after doing research----
 
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Forgot I actually have done that once. Forgot what mileage. This is actually the only reason I went to the dealer, to get that changed. My local indy will not do a Diff change. Dealer told me they checked it, no need to change it this time. Also had the ...slides lubed at my first service. Edited first post to reflect this.

I have done plugs many times on my Saab automobiles, and own a torque wrench. If it was the spring, summer, or September\October I probably would have told them to pound sand and done it. Any nice weekends for me are spent raking right now. My yard is a damn forest and this is my damn part time job in November.
Friggin charged me like $33 PER SPARK PLUG. That's insanity... Never again.
Re: induction service. It's not in the service manual. It was $209 for that. I do find it odd, I asked them to do the diff fluid and they said it didn't need it. Yet, want to charge me for that Induction.
They gave you a break on the plug price.
 
A spark plug socket with a rubber insert will hold the plug in place for removal and installation. Torque wrench should be used is what I meant for torque 'em, should use that on wheel lug nuts, too. Still, not rocket science. Hell, you don't even have to gap them. But, you're right. The right tools make it easier.

Just to chime in, I highly recommend avoiding spark plug sockets with rubber inserts. Look for a spark plug socket with spring clips to hold the plug, or a socket that uses magnetic inserts. The first time I ever changed my spark plugs, I used a socket with a rubber insert, and the insert fell out of the socket and into the engine. I was lucky that I was able to fish it out with a bamboo skewer and a wad of rolled up painter's tape on the end.

Admittedly I bought the socket off Amazon and it wasn't a well known brand, so take that for what it is.
 
Just to chime in, I highly recommend avoiding spark plug sockets with rubber inserts. Look for a spark plug socket with spring clips to hold the plug, or a socket that uses magnetic inserts. The first time I ever changed my spark plugs, I used a socket with a rubber insert, and the insert fell out of the socket and into the engine. I was lucky that I was able to fish it out with a bamboo skewer and a wad of rolled up painter's tape on the end.

Admittedly I bought the socket off Amazon and it wasn't a well known brand, so take that for what it is.
Yikes -Ok ... now Im looking for a new wrench - Who makes it ? Snap-on ? - hope so
 
Just to chime in, I highly recommend avoiding spark plug sockets with rubber inserts. Look for a spark plug socket with spring clips to hold the plug, or a socket that uses magnetic inserts. The first time I ever changed my spark plugs, I used a socket with a rubber insert, and the insert fell out of the socket and into the engine. I was lucky that I was able to fish it out with a bamboo skewer and a wad of rolled up painter's tape on the end.

Admittedly I bought the socket off Amazon and it wasn't a well known brand, so take that for what it is.

While I haven't changed any plugs recently, unless you count my lawn mower, I've changed many a plug over the years and I've never had an issue with the rubber insert in a spark plug socket.

Inspect the insert before use and make sure that it's secure. Problem solved.
 
For the spark plugs, I have (probably) a less used more unique approach ...

I use a regular deep socket with an extension just to break loose each plug. For actual removal and installation, I use one of those https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) (just an example).

Here are the reasons why:
Using the grabber tool gives me great visibility, feel and control to what I am doing because the flexible shaft is so thin and the "grabber" part is attached to the tip of the plug. I can hold a flashlight in my off had, lean directly over the spark plug well (holding my mouth just right of course lol 😆 ) and watch exactly what is going on. It's very quick to spin the thin flexible shaft of the grabber making it like a speed wrench. Same with installation, the grabber gives me more visibility, feel and control gently guiding the sparkplug threads into the head. I can see that I'm exactly lined up because I don't have a socket taking up all the space blocking my view. The grabber holds enough tension on the tip of the sparkplug that I can rotate the threads in but not enough tension that I could possibly strip any threads or cross thread it because I feel it instantly and I can feel precisely when the plug gasket is seated in.

I finish up with the deep socket and a torque wrench. (I've found that the "quarter turn past gasket seating" or whatever they print on the sparkplug box matches pretty well with a proper torque spec.

One final note ... I only change sparkplugs on cold engines. Most heads these days are aluminum and aluminum is soft. Your risk of bad things happening goes up on warm heads.

Happy DIY'ing 😁

418AhuvLxJL.jpg


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I used this socket for plugs on my CX-5… I had previously used on the VQ35HR in my G


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I used to use a pencil attached to an old spark plug boot to initially thread a plug.

I picked this up a couple years back and seems to work well too.

img_1216_4b497d4ef21eb6a8a9307b2be2cfa3d50f53681b.jpeg
 
For the spark plugs, I have (probably) a less used more unique approach ...

I use a regular deep socket with an extension just to break loose each plug. For actual removal and installation, I use one of those https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) (just an example).

Here are the reasons why:
Using the grabber tool gives me great visibility, feel and control to what I am doing because the flexible shaft is so thin and the "grabber" part is attached to the tip of the plug. I can hold a flashlight in my off had, lean directly over the spark plug well (holding my mouth just right of course lol 😆 ) and watch exactly what is going on. It's very quick to spin the thin flexible shaft of the grabber making it like a speed wrench. Same with installation, the grabber gives me more visibility, feel and control gently guiding the sparkplug threads into the head. I can see that I'm exactly lined up because I don't have a socket taking up all the space blocking my view. The grabber holds enough tension on the tip of the sparkplug that I can rotate the threads in but not enough tension that I could possibly strip any threads or cross thread it because I feel it instantly and I can feel precisely when the plug gasket is seated in.

I finish up with the deep socket and a torque wrench. (I've found that the "quarter turn past gasket seating" or whatever they print on the sparkplug box matches pretty well with a proper torque spec.

One final note ... I only change sparkplugs on cold engines. Most heads these days are aluminum and aluminum is soft. Your risk of bad things happening goes up on warm heads.

Happy DIY'ing 😁

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I already have one of these grabbers and I'll have to give your method a try at the next sparkplug change. I'll have to work on the mouth thing though, can you demonstrate? ;)
 
Funny thing. you could also use a piece of vacuum hose to attach to the end of the plug , but I must have gone to 3 parts stores and no one carried any on spools like they used to years ago. One store had a kit with 3 differnet size hoses, 10 " long, but they wanted $15 for it.
 
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