A few people have them and seem to like them once you get the proper spring rate. Through BC themselves they will run you about $1600 for one's that fit 2017 and up.
I'm did the same on the Honda. Set the height, found the settings I liked and drive it.
1. Make sure you select the correct coilovers. Your amazon link is for mx-5... NOT CX-5
a car isn't an SUV... again use caution upgrading swaybars without lowering it.
As mentioned, my 06 Dodge Ram didn't have a rear anti roll bar. I installed a stiff rear Hellwig bar and replaced the front anti roll bar bushings with urethane. Also upgraded the front end links. The truck was a bit too tight when not loaded or towing. I added bushings on the rear end links and it tracks straight when solo. This truck is my tow pig.
There is nothing to adjust pinion angles on the rear. But on the CX-5 it is not an issue even dropping up to 3" or more. Front end end usually has no issues either with camber.
Thank you for the info.
I'm going from 19" to 20" and the tires are getting 3 lbs lighter. Be advised that if you downsize wheels the tires may get heavier.
I myself am staying with 19" wheels but going from 7 to 8.5" width and they will be 10lbs lighter than stock.
We will weigh the oem 19" vs 18" wheel and tires. I saw a thread reporting the oem 19" wheel, less tire, weighs about 32# . The wheels we picked weigh 24 pounds. We will report the total change, if any.
That's a significant reduction of unsprung weight!
My 20" wheels will be about 24 lbs and the tires 25 lbs. In the 19" sizes those numbers would be 21 lbs and 28 lbs, respectively. It's interesting to me how going down in wheel size means the tires get heavier.
I compared 18 to 19" wheels and tires. Used Enkei TFR 8.5" wide and Michelin tires. The TRF was the lightest street class wheel I could find. It's a rotary forged wheel. 18 x 8.5 = 24#, 19 x 8.5 = 25#
Looking at ebay they all say 2013-2019 yr model. I'm guessing these are the ones you got?
One concern I have with adjustable coilovers is corrosion eventually making them non-adjustable and needing to be rebuilt. Or so I read. No personal experience. Seems going with Bilsteins will be more set and forget.
Can confirm! At 2" you are right on the curbs here. There might be enough room to slide a piece of paper under there...but maybe not.
My current thought process is that the 7.0K spring rate of the rear Corksport springs is enough to not need to add a rear sway bar. The tradeoff though seems to be a little more stiffness when going in a straight line. Most adjustable coilovers I see start at 6.0K rates in the rear (stock is around 5.2K) Then by adding a sway bar, you increase stiffness only during roll. Or so I understand.
Assuming springs do the same thing as sway bars is mixing Apple's and oranges. If springs controled body roll, then we would never have sway bars. If you are happy with the springs and oem sway bars enjoy.
