CorkSport springs with Bilstein shocks - *installation note*

I had BR Racing BR coilovers with upgraded Swift springs on my Lexus IS250 AWD. I liked them, but once I found the settings I liked, I never bothered to fiddle with them again. Didn't change anything when winter came and went as well. Overall a good set of coils IMO, I'd buy them again if they were available for my current car and my struts needed replacement.
 
1II'm looking at Corksport/Bilstiens vs BC Racing BR serries.

I put similar coil overs on a Honda Accord and drove it over 60,000 miles. I liked being able to adjust the shock heights and dampening. With stiffer anti sway bars and performance tires it drives like it's on rails.

I'm not sure if they are worth +$400 over the lowering springs/shocks....

Has anyone used BC Racing coil overs?

A few people have them and seem to like them once you get the proper spring rate. Through BC themselves they will run you about $1600 for one's that fit 2017 and up.
 
I had BR Racing BR coilovers with upgraded Swift springs on my Lexus IS250 AWD. I liked them, but once I found the settings I liked, I never bothered to fiddle with them again. Didn't change anything when winter came and went as well. Overall a good set of coils IMO, I'd buy them again if they were available for my current car and my struts needed replacement.
I'm did the same on the Honda. Set the height, found the settings I liked and drive it.

I'm going to SPRING for the BR's.
 
I'm looking at Corksport/Bilstiens vs BC Racing BR serries.

I put similar coil overs on a Honda Accord and drove it over 60,000 miles. I liked being able to adjust the shock heights and dampening. With stiffer anti sway bars and performance tires it drives like it's on rails.

I'm not sure if they are worth +$400 over the lowering springs/shocks....

Has anyone used BC Racing coil overs?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
1. Make sure you select the correct coilovers. Your amazon link is for mx-5... NOT CX-5

2. Coilovers in my region (the salt belt) don't last too well

3. If you go much lower than the corksport springs, you'll have to watch out for curbs with the bumpers, exhaust, doors, as well as speed bumps

4. You can put sway bars on anything. Just be careful as with suv stock height suspension it can make the vehicle unpredictable.
 
Thanks, here is a link for a CX 5.

The CX 5 will have to withstand Alabama heat and sun rather than salt!

I added Accura S anti roll bars on the Honda. They bolted in and only improved handling. I added a big anti roll bar, Hellwig, to my 2500 Ram. When not loaded, it would dance around a bit on the highway. I add additional isolators to the end links and all is well.

I'm going to swap out the OEM anti roll bar bushings for urethane and see how this stiffens up the ride. This worked nicely on the Honda and truck and is a cheap mod.

https://shop.redline360.com/products/bc-racing-coilovers-mazda-cx5-2017-2019-n-37

1704496898619.png
 
Thanks, here is a link for a CX 5.

The CX 5 will have to withstand Alabama heat and sun rather than salt!

I added Accura S anti roll bars on the Honda. They bolted in and only improved handling. I added a big anti roll bar, Hellwig, to my 2500 Ram. When not loaded, it would dance around a bit on the highway. I add additional isolators to the end links and all is well.

I'm going to swap out the OEM anti roll bar bushings for urethane and see how this stiffens up the ride. This worked nicely on the Honda and truck and is a cheap mod.

https://shop.redline360.com/products/bc-racing-coilovers-mazda-cx5-2017-2019-n-37

View attachment 324899
a car isn't an SUV... again use caution upgrading swaybars without lowering it.
 
a car isn't an SUV... again use caution upgrading swaybars without lowering it.
As mentioned, my 06 Dodge Ram didn't have a rear anti roll bar. I installed a stiff rear Hellwig bar and replaced the front anti roll bar bushings with urethane. Also upgraded the front end links. The truck was a bit too tight when not loaded or towing. I added bushings on the rear end links and it tracks straight when solo. This truck is my tow pig.

I have a drag car with an anti roll bar. We started out with it in a netural position with me in the car. After adjusting the 4 link, we add a tiny bit of preload to the anti roll bar. This car 0 to 60 in 1.4 seconds or 1.14 sec d 60'. When it does not track straight is an aborted pass. One has to make a spit second decision to abort or crash. Wee!

We plan on installing BC Racing coilovers, lower 1 to 1.5". Install parts to adjust rear camber on the CX5.g

We will swap.out the 19" wheels with 18" rotary forged wheels, saving 7 to 8# per corner.

I have a set of car scales. I'll scale out the CX 5 before and after. This could help tune the suspension. Then get a 4 wheel alignment.

From what I've read, the front end doesn't need any parts to adjust to lower 1.5".

Is that correct?

Do folks adjust the rear diff pinion angle when lowering? Are there parts that allow for pinion angle adjustment?

Thanks for the advice. I'm getting excited doing these modifications and enjoy this CX 5!!
 
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My 06 Dodge Ram didn't have a rear anti roll bar. I installed a stiff Hellwig bar and replaced the front anti roll bar bushings with urethane. Also upgraded the front end links. The truck was a bit too tight when not loaded or towing. I added bushings on the rear end links and it tracks straight when solo. This truck is my tow pig.

I have a drag car with an anti roll bar. We started out with it in a netural position with me in the car. After adjusting the 4 link, we add a tiny bit of preload to the anti roll bar. This car 0 to 60 in 1.4 seconds or 1.14 sec d 60'. When it does not track straight is an aborted pass.

We plan on installing BC Racing coilovers, lower 1 to 1.5". Install parts to adjust rear camber.

We will swap.out the 19" wheels with 18" rotary forged wheels, saving 7 to 8# per corner.

I have a set of car scales. I'll scale out the CX 5 before and after. This could help tune the suspension. Then get a 4 wheel alignment.

From what I've read, the front end doesn't need any parts to adjust to lower 1.5".

Is that correct?

Do folks adjust the rear diff pinion angle when lowering? Are there parts that allow for pinion angle adjustment?

Thanks for the advice. I'm getting excited doing these modifications and enjoy this CX 5!!
There is nothing to adjust pinion angles on the rear. But on the CX-5 it is not an issue even dropping up to 3" or more. Front end end usually has no issues either with camber.
 
There is nothing to adjust pinion angles on the rear. But on the CX-5 it is not an issue even dropping up to 3" or more. Front end end usually has no issues either with camber.
Thank you for the info.

I'm going to measure the pinon angle, before/after, and post it.

Most irs pinon angles are 0 deg. Maybe shimming the rear cradle will bring it back to 0 deg, if needed.

Change in ride height changes the pinon ange, even on CX5s. Ignoring it can cause vibration, wear out drive shaft parts and produce parasitic HP loss. To much pinon angle will break the DS U joints with hard acceleration. Ask me how I know.🤣

We will see how much lowering changes the pinon angek and weight changes on each wheel.

I'm interested applying race car tuning, 4 wheel scales, pinon angle technics to this project.
 
We will swap.out the 19" wheels with 18" rotary forged wheels, saving 7 to 8# per corner.
I'm going from 19" to 20" and the tires are getting 3 lbs lighter. Be advised that if you downsize wheels the tires may get heavier.
 
I'm going from 19" to 20" and the tires are getting 3 lbs lighter. Be advised that if you downsize wheels the tires may get heavier.
We will weigh the oem 19" vs 18" wheel and tires. I saw a thread reporting the oem 19" wheel, less tire, weighs about 32# . The wheels we picked weigh 24 pounds. We will report the total change, if any.

We will loose some cornering and gain more comfort. This is a DD. No plans to doing anything else.

The goal is reduce body roll, improve the look.
 
We will weigh the oem 19" vs 18" wheel and tires. I saw a thread reporting the oem 19" wheel, less tire, weighs about 32# . The wheels we picked weigh 24 pounds. We will report the total change, if any.

We will loose some cornering and gain more comfort. This is a DD. No plans to doing anything else.

The goal is reduce body roll, improve the look.
My 20" wheels will be about 24 lbs and the tires 25 lbs. In the 19" sizes those numbers would be 21 lbs and 28 lbs, respectively. It's interesting to me how going down in wheel size means the tires get heavier.
 
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I don't think it will improve the look, but that's entirely subjective on my part, and dependant on whether you are looking at wheel size to body ratio, or you just prefer bigger tires.

My 20" wheels will be about 24 lbs and the tires 25 lbs. In the 19" sizes those numbers would be 21 lbs and 28 lbs, respectively.
I compared 18 to 19" wheels and tires. Used Enkei TFR 8.5" wide and Michelin tires. The TRF was the lightest street class wheel I could find. It's a rotary forged wheel. 18 x 8.5 = 24#, 19 x 8.5 = 25#

Interesting, they are about equal in weight, 18" 59.54 #s vs. 19" 59#s per wheel and tire.

18" is a Mich Primacy TLC
19" is a Mich Latitude Tour HP.

There are not as many tire choices in the 255/55r19 as the 265/60r18.

The 19" costs almost $600 more than the 18s.

I agree the 19 and 20 will look better than an 18. The 18 will look a little better than a 17... Not sure they are worth $600 and be locked in to expensive tires.

What wheel and tires are you running?

These "lighter" aftermarket wheels still are almost as heavy as my Dodge Ram 2500 17" wheels with 10 ply 32" diameter tires. They weigh 10# more than my 14.5" wide, 32" diameter slicks!

Has anyone weighed a OEM wheel and tire?
 
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I ordered rear camber/toe kit for my 3rd Gen, 2024, CX 5 today.

Specialty Products Company - Cx-5 Rear Camber/Toe Kit (67416)

1706843018776.png

 
Jumping back in here...can confirm the LYKT control arms work well and look OEM. Thanks everyone for that tip.

PXL_20240615_201548911-1.jpg


Side note: rust happens quickly with these stock parts...this control arm has 3,000 miles on it and 1 winter. The same could be true of the LYKT.

PXL_20240614_032059642-1.jpg


2. Coilovers in my region (the salt belt) don't last too well
One concern I have with adjustable coilovers is corrosion eventually making them non-adjustable and needing to be rebuilt. Or so I read. No personal experience. Seems going with Bilsteins will be more set and forget.

3. If you go much lower than the corksport springs, you'll have to watch out for curbs with the bumpers, exhaust, doors, as well as speed bumps
Can confirm! At 2" you are right on the curbs here. There might be enough room to slide a piece of paper under there...but maybe not.

PXL_20240629_223749963-1.jpg

4. You can put sway bars on anything. Just be careful as with suv stock height suspension it can make the vehicle unpredictable.
My current thought process is that the 7.0K spring rate of the rear Corksport springs is enough to not need to add a rear sway bar. The tradeoff though seems to be a little more stiffness when going in a straight line. Most adjustable coilovers I see start at 6.0K rates in the rear (stock is around 5.2K) Then by adding a sway bar, you increase stiffness only during roll. Or so I understand.
 
You're crazy going that far over. I'm afraid to get too close to curbs (my previous car wouldve hit them).

In my seat position, I sight-line the bottom of the side mirrors up to the curb line and it ends up being the perfect parking position in pretty much every car I drive.
 

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Jumping back in here...can confirm the LYKT control arms work well and look OEM. Thanks everyone for that tip.

View attachment 329585

Side note: rust happens quickly with these stock parts...this control arm has 3,000 miles on it and 1 winter. The same could be true of the LYKT.

View attachment 329587


One concern I have with adjustable coilovers is corrosion eventually making them non-adjustable and needing to be rebuilt. Or so I read. No personal experience. Seems going with Bilsteins will be more set and forget.


Can confirm! At 2" you are right on the curbs here. There might be enough room to slide a piece of paper under there...but maybe not.

View attachment 329586

My current thought process is that the 7.0K spring rate of the rear Corksport springs is enough to not need to add a rear sway bar. The tradeoff though seems to be a little more stiffness when going in a straight line. Most adjustable coilovers I see start at 6.0K rates in the rear (stock is around 5.2K) Then by adding a sway bar, you increase stiffness only during roll. Or so I understand.
Assuming springs do the same thing as sway bars is mixing Apple's and oranges. If springs controled body roll, then we would never have sway bars. If you are happy with the springs and oem sway bars enjoy.

My experience with Megan Racing bars with urethane bushings is night amd day difference over OEM with stock springs and dampeners or coilovers.

I dont live is an area that treats the roads in the winter heavily with chemicals. My Accord had coilovers that were due for replacement after 6 years or 60k. Rebuild consists of replacing the dampness. Not a big deal. Or replace the entire unit.

I'll give BC Racing support is A+. They have more than gone the extra mile to get me happy. Today I requested either taller rear spring or longer spring perches. They agreed to send longer springs. I only want to lower 1.75 to 2" and the original springs lowered 2" or more....

Early they sent a second set of dampers and coil.over top plate assembly to get me happy with a noise in the strut. Now I have a spare set of front dampers...

30 different adjustments on the dampness.
 
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