Your thoughts?

[CalgaryMS6]

Do you think I'll have a problem with warranty if I order the Eibach Pro-Kit or AutEXE springs for my car? I'd order the Mazdaspeed springs for simple ease of avoiding any problems, but they wanna charge me up the a$$ for them and I'm not even sure which springs to go with. They offer springs for the following and I quote,

"I4 sedan only(non-turbo)"
"V6 sedan only"
"Sport and Wagon"

I don't see speed6 anywhere in those 3 options.

Also, what tools would be required, and how difficult is it to do this myself. I've never worked on suspension before, but if I did the work I figured I could grab whatever I wanted without too much headache from the dealership.

Thanks for your time. This suspension choice is easily the toughest decision I've had in trying to make when it comes to this car. (scratch)

I did however order my TWM stage 2 shifter tonight (yippy)

 

[Mazda6smtx]

Dealerships were told to use the V6 sedan or Wagon springs I believe for the Speed6.

If you haven't done any suspension work before you may find the fronts a little tedious but overall you should be fine.

From having done this job about 14 times for various club members and 3 times on my own car alone, I'll give you some tips to have this really easy for you.


Tools:

Floor Jack and Jack stands

For the front:

12mm Socket
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
1Xmm wrench (I can't remember which one most likely something around 17)
Spring Compressor

1. Jack the front of the car up and put it on jack-stands and remove the wheels.

2. Remove the 15mm bolt at the bottom of the shock that holds the wishbone looking piece to the control arm. (use the wrench for the side with the nut welded washer)

3. Remove the 14mm bolt securing the shock to the wishbone piece.

4. Remove the 12mm bolt holding the brake line.

The shock is now ready to be removed.

5. Now the easy part, make sure both sides are at the same point with the bolts removed. Pull down the wishbone peice. You will have to alternate sides on the car or get someone to help you. Both of the them will come off really easy and there is no need to take off the end link. Why do more work for nothing, plus they are a b**** to put back on.

6.Once they are off loosen the 3, 14mm nuts holding the shock to the car, and the shocks and springs will come right out with ease.

Since it sounds like this is your first time doing this this should take you about 45 mins. Once the shocks are out you can now swap the springs. Re-installation is exactly the same in reverse order.

FRONT NOTE: The top nut on the shock that hold the upper mount to the shock must be tight, I suggest an impact wrench, or use loctite.

While compressing the spring it helps to get a case of beer because it gets rather exhausting, but for every beer you drink and every buddy that says they will come over to help add 30 mins. Just because beer needs to be enjoyed and other people are just distracting.

For the rear:
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
12" Pry bar

1. Jack up the rear of the car and remove the wheels

2. Remove the sway bar end links with the 14mm Socket

3.Place the jack under the spring arm and raise it to compress the spring about 1/4" to 1/2" any more than that is a waste of energy.

4. Undo the 15mm bolt that secures the spring arm to the main rear suspension arm.

5. Release the jack and take out the spring.

6. Re-installation is the complete reverse.

This should take another 45mins

REAR NOTE: Re-installing the 15mm bolt can be a PAIN IN THE ASS, sometimes because it just doesn't want to line up. I suggest bringing a 12" pry bar just in case.

If you have any other question just post up, and I'll be happy to answer them.

 

[wannabe]

nice write up

as far as warranty, the dealer would need to prove that the springs caused the failure. so, if your struts went, yeah they may not warranty. if your turbo has a problem, they have to warranty.

 

[CalgaryMS6]

Great step by step, thank you very much. Ordered my springs, and rear engine mount tonight.