Wheel Play and other issues

[opieshuffle]

Hey Everyone,
My 2001 Protege 5 has developed a few things (aside from horrible rust around the rear wheel wells!)

When coming to a stop, I start to hear "clunking" noises. From what I've read it could be bad calipers? But on inspection I don't see any play. But with a wheel off, (in park / emerg brake applied) there's about an inch or two of play (meaning I can turn the wheel forwards and back a bit.) Related? Not? Ball joints? Also, when going over speed bumps or potholes I get a loud CLUNK form the back end. Suspension issue of sorts?

I'm kind of in the dark as to what to start looking for. I'm confident in my abilities to fix, but troubleshooting is where I need some help.

TIA.

Opie

 

[esnave09]

When you have the front end jacked up you should be able to turn one of the wheels even though its in gear (or park, in your case). The only time you shouldn't is if you've installed a limited slip diff. Assuming you still have the stock diff, you'll be able to spin one wheel but not the other, and then if you go to spin the other wheel the first one will not be able to.

As for he clunking, my best guess is rusted out strut mounts. Have you replaced your struts recently/do you need to soon? It's one of the most overlooked parts of replacing struts. I know my struts are shot and I plan on replacing those then. Take a look at those when you get a chance. It could be a lot of things, but that would be the first thing I would check.

 

[kamesama980]

Strut mounts and struts are good candidates. Sway bar links are VERY common and also make a "clunk" over bumps when they start to wear.

parking brake only affects the rear wheels. transmission in park (or in gear for manual) will certainly allow an inch or more play at the front wheels with only one off the ground, that's the lash between the gears and parts of the diff and drivetrain. If you want to check for play in any meaningful way, grab the tire at 12 and 6 and try to shake it up/down. then try to shake it side to side holding it at 9 and 3.

Since it sounds like you don't have much experience shaking a car down for play, it might be beneficial to take it to a shop and have them inspect it for the clunks. you aren't obligated to have it repaired there and it's perfectly reasonable to get a second or third opinion. You're well within your rights to have them show you the problem parts on the car too. It's easy and quick for someone that's done it a thousand times but if you don't know what it feels like, how much is OK, etc. you'll be chasing your tale on the internet for weeks when the car could be done.

 

[Installshield 2]

like mentioned, possibilities include struts and/or mounts, the ball joints (behind the 6 o'clock position of the rotor), steering rack inner and/or out tie rod ends (behind 3 o'clock position of rotor), front sway bar endlinks or sway bar bushings...or any combination of the above...

also, like mentioned, you can't go by play in wheel rotation...thats normal...you need to try and find play in directions the wheel shouldn't be moving...holding at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock' and pushing one side while pulling the other will narrow down if its tie rod related (best to do this with only one front wheel in the air, or else you may simply be turning the steering wheel)...12 o'clock and 6 o'clock will tell if its ball joint related...if neither of these seem to make any noticeable noise or slop...you've probably narrowed it down to the struts or strut mounts, or the sway bar bushings and endlinks...

what to do depends on what type of 'home mechanic' you are...Everything mentioned by all of us are typical suspension wear items...every single one of them wears out...if you are unaware of if or when any of this has been replaced, its not a bad idea to just start ordering some parts...you won't hurt anything by replacing all of it, but obviously that takes more money and more time...however doing all of it at once is the easiest and fastest way, since you won't have to 'undo' any previous steps...for example, don't just order strut mounts if your current struts have 150,000+ miles or something...you'll have to take the strut assemblies apart to install the mounts...only to find the clunk is still there, and it was the struts all along...and you'll just be doing it again haha...

its a tough balance on an older car...you're saying the rear is rusting out badly, so keep that in mind when ordering stuff...might be a better idea to try and source some cheap used parts in decent condition as apposed to new...the FS section of this forum regularly has parts such as these being let go often...at unbeatable prices...