What do I do with my Mazda5?
- Thread starter danix
- Start date
mazdadude
ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOM
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- '16.5 Mazda CX-5 Touring
I have the Koni FSD on mine, they still feel good after over 24,000 miles.
mazdadude
ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOM
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- '16.5 Mazda CX-5 Touring
I wanted a stockish ride, and wanted to also use the stock springs.
mazdadude
ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOM
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- '16.5 Mazda CX-5 Touring
What is the difference in price?
mazdadude
ZOOOOOOOOOM ZOOOOOOOOOM
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- '16.5 Mazda CX-5 Touring
If you are going to sell soon, then I would go with the GR2 or Tokico.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
The obvious answer is get the KYBs but think about this for a sec.
How much is $550 up front cost worth to you? If you get the Konis, you’ll get a more enjoyable ride for the year and if you are capable, swap it back out for the old ones before you sell the car. You can resell the Konis for some money back to offset the loss (I know I’d buy them if priced right). This is not worth doing if you have to pay to get them off. On the other hand, if you get the GR2s, there’s no point in selling them used so you’ll most likely sell the car with them. The typical Mz5 buyer, in their 15-20 min test drive, will not know the difference if shocks are blown or not –just make it look shiny.
If you are planning on getting all new shocks, don’t mind the effort to swap them out, and want to enjoy the car for a year, go with the Konis. If there’s a chance you may keep the car longer, definitely go with the Konis. If money is a concern, just stick with the crappy OEM shocks or look for used ones here. A year goes by quickly.
Btw, Tokico does not make any products for the MS3/Mz3/Mz5. Knoi does offer an entry level shock for the Mz3 and have lifetime warranty
(so do all Knoi products). However, it is not much cheaper than the FSD :/
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...t-Koni-Street-Shocks-Mazda3-only-(&highlight=
How much is $550 up front cost worth to you? If you get the Konis, you’ll get a more enjoyable ride for the year and if you are capable, swap it back out for the old ones before you sell the car. You can resell the Konis for some money back to offset the loss (I know I’d buy them if priced right). This is not worth doing if you have to pay to get them off. On the other hand, if you get the GR2s, there’s no point in selling them used so you’ll most likely sell the car with them. The typical Mz5 buyer, in their 15-20 min test drive, will not know the difference if shocks are blown or not –just make it look shiny.
If you are planning on getting all new shocks, don’t mind the effort to swap them out, and want to enjoy the car for a year, go with the Konis. If there’s a chance you may keep the car longer, definitely go with the Konis. If money is a concern, just stick with the crappy OEM shocks or look for used ones here. A year goes by quickly.
Btw, Tokico does not make any products for the MS3/Mz3/Mz5. Knoi does offer an entry level shock for the Mz3 and have lifetime warranty
(so do all Knoi products). However, it is not much cheaper than the FSD :/http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...t-Koni-Street-Shocks-Mazda3-only-(&highlight=
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
What are you comparing? I am referring to The Koni Street (go for about $420 when I last checked) vs Koni FSD (OP said $550).
Regarding GR2 vs FSD, you will most likely NOT recover the cost of the GR2, while you can still recover some of the cost from the FSD. This is only worth it if there’s no additional cost to removal (maybe sell locally and include this in the term of the sale –you swap them kinda deal). Personally, I’d go with Konis and come time to sell, see if anyone has a complete set that can be swapped + some cash. Avoiding the need to dismount the shocks assembly to get springs on/off is a time killer. One reason why BCs are so tempting b/c it comes complete.
danix -
My fellow diesel head. (2K VW Golf GLS TDI... chip, turbo, springs...)
We have had our Mazda5 for 3 years now. Springs, dampers, and sound deadening and bingo!!!!
I was very unhappy with the amount of road noise in the Mazda5, especially after lowering it 1" and increasing to 18" rims. While it looks waay better, now it's as noisy as my high school 3 cylinder Geo Metro 4 door.
I invested in Raamaudio sound deadening. Ensolite peel & stick and Rammmat peel & stick. I removed all interior from the rear of the car up to the drivers seat, then sound deadened the entire floor and roof (up to the sunroof). And now the Mazda 5 rides quieter than my VW. Honestly, of any money I spent on that car, $150 toward sound deadening was soo worth it. Our family can hold conversations all throughout the car.
Owned my TDI for 12 years now. Modified engine, suspension, and interior work... check
Owned our Mazda5 for 3 years now. Modified suspension & interior... check
Running em into the ground,
michael.
My fellow diesel head. (2K VW Golf GLS TDI... chip, turbo, springs...)
We have had our Mazda5 for 3 years now. Springs, dampers, and sound deadening and bingo!!!!
I was very unhappy with the amount of road noise in the Mazda5, especially after lowering it 1" and increasing to 18" rims. While it looks waay better, now it's as noisy as my high school 3 cylinder Geo Metro 4 door.
I invested in Raamaudio sound deadening. Ensolite peel & stick and Rammmat peel & stick. I removed all interior from the rear of the car up to the drivers seat, then sound deadened the entire floor and roof (up to the sunroof). And now the Mazda 5 rides quieter than my VW. Honestly, of any money I spent on that car, $150 toward sound deadening was soo worth it. Our family can hold conversations all throughout the car.
Owned my TDI for 12 years now. Modified engine, suspension, and interior work... check
Owned our Mazda5 for 3 years now. Modified suspension & interior... check
Running em into the ground,
michael.
Sound deadening is definitely a good investment for this car.
I took the 5 to a local shop today to get checked out, since the dealers can't seem to get it straight.
The tech lifted the car, noted leaking struts on both sides (I verified), and disconnected the front and rear swaybars by removing the links.
He test drove it, said there was no more clunking noise, so the links have to be bad.
Quote for replacing front struts, rear shocks, and stabilizer links front and rear, plus a serpentine belt was just below $1500.
At this point the car is likely only worth $8k.
Sure, I can do it myself for $400 in parts, but it's still a disappointing amount of work needed on a vehicle with just over 50k miles.
I took the 5 to a local shop today to get checked out, since the dealers can't seem to get it straight.
The tech lifted the car, noted leaking struts on both sides (I verified), and disconnected the front and rear swaybars by removing the links.
He test drove it, said there was no more clunking noise, so the links have to be bad.
Quote for replacing front struts, rear shocks, and stabilizer links front and rear, plus a serpentine belt was just below $1500.
At this point the car is likely only worth $8k.
Sure, I can do it myself for $400 in parts, but it's still a disappointing amount of work needed on a vehicle with just over 50k miles.
I've wanted to do sound deadening since I got my Mz5, but couldn't justify it until I felt like I was going to keep it for a while. Now that I've dealt with the suspension, I think sound deadening will be my next upgrade (assuming sanding the rotors takes care of that steering wheel vibration...) Glad to hear red headz found it to be worth the investment.
Hey, do you have any tips or links for removing/replacing the interior panels?
Hey, do you have any tips or links for removing/replacing the interior panels?
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Unfortunately, those parts wearing out is part of having great handling. Most roads in US cities just beat the crap out of those links. I've had several cars of other brands do the same thing with far less than 50K miles. It's just part of maintenance now. Fluid change intervals are longer, no real chassis lubrication any more, but suspension parts wear out faster. I feel your pain though.
As I posted in another thread, all new bushings, end links, struts and shocks. The damn thing still clunks like mad.
Is it possible to retrofit the 2010+ front swaybar and links?
For the record, the KYB GR-2 are about the same as stock, barely an upgrade. And the originals were fine, this was just preventative.
Mr. Speed5
Member
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- 2008 Mazda5 Grand Touring, 2009 Mazda5 Sport
you can compensate for gearing with tire size - next time you visit the tire shop, compare the 205/50/17's overall diameter with different sizes - any with an O.D. of approx 1/2 - 1 inch or so higher will fit under the spring cups on front - rear fit isn't an issue
Mr. Speed5
Member
- :
- 2008 Mazda5 Grand Touring, 2009 Mazda5 Sport
Yeah, the road noise is by far my biggest complaint - i have only the drivers seat in my '09 as i make deliveries in it - i drive it 470 miles/day, 5 days/week - has 279,000 miles on it - today, i changed the struts for the first time...they started leaking @ 260,000...H&R springs, struts, shocks, tires and brakes are all i've ever had to replace - when i installed audio, i took out the carpet to powerspray it clean, and discovered an area directly under each front seat filled with styrofoam...i popped them out and cut the carpet open, stuck my alpine amps in. Diverted the console's blower with 2 pieces of shop-vac hose routed through holes trimmed in sides of console to the amps. So far, they've never gotten hot! I'm not sure i want the extra weight or the hassle with installing the sound-deadening stuff - i wear earplugs and crank it up!
