Starting the upgrades

I just put my injen intake in and I called them and told them I had to modify it my self .
The tube going to the fender was about an inch to long where it rubbed on the car, It would not last a week
the place where you mount that tube the bolt was moved 3/4 inch and it was mounted to low. had to reweld. also silicone hose was two inches to long but it is in. I talked to injen and they said to take it out and send it back and they would fix it. I told them they were NUTS. Looks good and man can you hear the turbo spool with that on. Also did the turbo timer and that came out great. Will get the old camera out and take some pics and post later
 
Why wait b/c it will be a higher quality piece with brand name muffler (APEXI N1) and a cat so u wont be chokin up the air smog legal and have a bung for a wideband! Price will be around the same price is tenatively around the 1000 range. not set of this moment.
Check their webpage. www.ctcmotorsports.com
My car is the donor for this exhaust. so i will let yall know when its done.
 
I appreciate that JDM I have heard good things about this Magnus do you know something I don't? Also If you are right I will chalk it up to experience even thou it would be an expensive lesson. Greddy is suppose to be coming out with one this summer, I just don't have faith when people say that. I figure buy the time you buy the down pipe the middle section and the muffler it will cost about the same. One thing I wanted to make sure is that it will fut the T3 if I decide to go with it. All you have to do is change the flange. Thanks for getting back to me because you sound like you know a lot more then me.
 
yea were making this exhaust to be a street legal CEL light free. just bolt on and no worries. and of course dyno to show power gains. includes a wideband bung for tuning. and of course the 02 bung. just fyi no exhaust is going to be compatable with other exhausts due to the piping size and flanges. so if u use one companies d pipe it might not bolt up to another cat back. and vice versa.
 
i would be interested but i already have a apexi n1. is there a way i can get the d/p and cat only?
 
Sounds good. I'm very interested since they're local, but for $1k I'll be holding off for proof of gains.

Peace...(hippy)
 
CRDMS1 said:
Sounds good. I'm very interested since they're local, but for $1k I'll be holding off for proof of gains.

Peace...(hippy)

Guys, no offense here- but you all want to see "dyno proven" gains for everything?!?!?! It is a 3" turbo back exhaust- it WILL improve performance- less on a "stock" car, more on a boosted car and even more on a built boosted car :).. Every vehicle will respond differently- There is no magic bolt on 100 hp part that will be 100 hp on all cars at all stages of tune (well, except nitrous :) ). If one guys 3" exhaust does xxx hp and another one does a different #, it does not mean one is better than the other (unless they are two totally different muffler designs or something- but most are straight through designs), just that the #'s came out different- the car, weather, mods, etc. will all affect how much of a "gain" the car just showed. As mentioned in another thread, you can let a car cool for 2 hours and show a better # than hot- so if a car is driven in off the street- dynoed, then sits for 3 hours getting the exhaust done and put back on the dyno "cold"- you will probably see a 60-70 hp gain- that doesn't mean it was all exhaust. Numbers on items like this are worthless. It is what the item will do stock and how far it will allow you to go that you are buying. I have never seen so many "once I see dyno #'s" comments before in my life :)..

CRDMS1- Sorry, not trying to attack you personally :).
Joe
 
kwiktsi said:

Guys, no offense here- but you all want to see "dyno proven" gains for everything?!?!?! It is a 3" turbo back exhaust- it WILL improve performance- less on a "stock" car, more on a boosted car and even more on a built boosted car :).. Every vehicle will respond differently- There is no magic bolt on 100 hp part that will be 100 hp on all cars at all stages of tune (well, except nitrous :) ). If one guys 3" exhaust does xxx hp and another one does a different #, it does not mean one is better than the other (unless they are two totally different muffler designs or something- but most are straight through designs), just that the #'s came out different- the car, weather, mods, etc. will all affect how much of a "gain" the car just showed. As mentioned in another thread, you can let a car cool for 2 hours and show a better # than hot- so if a car is driven in off the street- dynoed, then sits for 3 hours getting the exhaust done and put back on the dyno "cold"- you will probably see a 60-70 hp gain- that doesn't mean it was all exhaust. Numbers on items like this are worthless. It is what the item will do stock and how far it will allow you to go that you are buying. I have never seen so many "once I see dyno #'s" comments before in my life :)..

CRDMS1- Sorry, not trying to attack you personally :).
Joe

Yeah Joe, cut me some slack. I'm a noob :D

I think what I said came out wrong. For the cost, I'd like to be assured a product well-constructed of quality materials fitted for MY car that 'enables' greater performance through proper tuning. The good news is they are close to me, and I can probably see the product in person...maybe even experience it on someone elses car before I have to make a $1k decision :)

BTW, I agree that dyno numbers can be VERY misleading, but can also be VERY informative if done properly (i.e. controlling the other variables). Too bad you can't always rely on the product manufacturer not to rig the results :mad:

Peace...(hippy)
 
just to prove ppl wrong bout magnus motorsports... i think u should boost it up to 10 psi, put on the turbo-back and dyno for us :) plzzzzzzz
 
I already have that problem solved because they are sending the extra flange to bolt right to the t3.
I will probalbly get it on in a week matbe two and will have it dynoed when I do with stock boost.
 
I think the main upgrade to do is this: Everyone talking about air tot air cooling that is nothe way to go to me.
Air to Liquid intercoolers offer compactness without sacrificing performance. These units use an external water pump that circulates water through a separate heat exchanger and a separate reservoir. In street applications, air to liquid intercoolers prevent heat soak to the core during stop and go driving by circulating water through the core when the vehicle is not in motion. In race applications where ice water is utilized, air to liquid offers performance beyond air to air units.
I think you will find it will cool about 14 times better then air to air
 
14 times huh. how exact. why not 15 to make it even or 10 or 20 even?

yeah i want an ice chest but i lean more towards fmic. ofcourse i could do both... those pwr air to water can be front mount too. then ppl will go: "WTF is that?" and i'll say "Wanna find out?" good idea, just wouldn't know where to put the resevoir. oh yeah and i also wanted to find a way to hook up the hvac system, but only when the ac is on, not the heater.
 
I just installed the three pod gauge today and it looks GREAT. The only thing I did not get to and it is run and everything and in is the oil pressure I need a fitting for it and I am thinking and hoping it is 10mm. I will install the exhaust and down pipe and after I do that I will get it dynoed for the second time . I am holding off on upping the boost just because I want the shop manual before I do that because I think I am going to have to play with the fuel. So I am holding off on that till I get my manual. I will post pics of the three gauge pod when I get the chance they look great.
 
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