Spun a rod bearing!

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I was able to get it back in last night, as soon as its late enough to start using my power tools without waking my neighbors up i will begin to put everything back.
idk why everyone suggests to remove the tranny along with the engine, that is sooo much more work. took me 2 hours to load the engine up, get it off the truck and into the bay, align it, place the motor mounts back and bolt up the tranny/flywheel. Hopefully i can put it everything back on in a few hours as well, gym closes at 3.
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oh your car is automatic... Yea you're not going to be able to do that with a manual transmission. engine looks excellent, how much did it all cost you?
 
Ahh i get it now! yes its auto, thats why it was easier.
it WAS a VERY tight fit sliding it back in at first it didnt look possible, but i slide it at an angle and set the jack at the perfect height so it tilted the engine towards the transmission once it sat on it. honestly its taking me longer to put all the stuff on it, i have to remove my intake again and blow it out because some leaves flew right in there are i was wigiling it in in!
I gave him the engine with the heads and valve cover still on it, he gave it back to me as pictured in the truck, timing was set. in a box was the timing cover, the pulleys, the valve cover and the remaining gaskets. i paid $400 flat. $304 for the gaskets, and $14 for a second set of rod bearings due it not clearing at .10( went to .20)
Engine does look very nice and you can tell he did not slack it at all, i looked in the manifold holes and i could see lubriplate(primer) hangin down from the top of the valves and that gave me a sense of comfort, atleast i wont have pre-lubrication problems. only thing is that i did not oil the cams before re-placing the valve cover on.. was that a mistake? or will it be fine once i fill it up with oil? i plan on running it 200 miles and changin the oil, then again after a week.
 
With rebuilt motors it's best to start it let it warm up then change the oil. Drive 100 miles and change it. Then drive 1,000 miles and change it, then return to regular changes.
 
Ok, i really had no clue on the break in process so i will take your advice on that and do so, so let it run a good 30 min?
was it fine to leave the cams dry?
 
Just disconnect the coils from the plug and turn the engine over 3 -5 times that will prime the system with oil.
In my signature there is a link to a forge engine build guide. I wrote down the break in weisco recommended.
 
ok cool, thanks so disconnect both coils and both wires and turn it over 3-5 times.
lemme take a look at that break in recommendation on your link, cuz like i said i have no idea how to break it in and i REALLY dont want to **** it up. i have 3 sets of oil+filter ready to be used i also have 2 sets of spark plugs (i got a free set with the purchase of one of the oil+filter). as of now all that is left is the intake mani brace, the connectors and sensors that mount to the intake, and the header i believe. i hope tomorrow i can finish it, i may be finished after work today but i woant to double check everything before cranking it.
 
All done.
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Idk how this broke.. but i guess i overtightened it and the bolt broke off in the manifold. so for now i have no VICS solenoid :/ idle problems... but its running.
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Just hit me i never posted a pic of the damn problem wagon AKA ProjectJ5
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hey i got a spare set of actuators you pay shipping ill send them to you

edit: aw wait did the stud that holds it is that what broke or the screw... i just took a closer look
 
bolt broke off in the mani but i got it out :) and yea you're probably right i can hear a whistle coming from the mani/throttle body area i just cant find it everything seems tight, im gonna have to remove the intake and replace all gaskets again to make sure. i checked it with carb cleaner on a rag, found a leak but not why or where its coming from.
 
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