OK- here is the info on the FP reducer kit....

[kwiktsi]

Ok guys, I have parts coming for 20 kits on Tuesday. The check valve is a different one than I have been using, it is a much higher quality. But as with all changes, I want to do it to my car first. If it works the same (as it should), I am giving this an all clear.. You can start to order whenever you want (the sooner, the better to cover my expenses).. The price will be $25 including shipping. For $25 you will get-
1) 3/16" ball and spring check valve
1) 3/16" hose tee
3' of 3/16 hose
1) 3/16 90 degree elbow
1) rubber grommet
1) 5/16" drill bit
1) instruction manual
all shipped to your door...

Without going too much into detail- the checkvalve tees into the FPR line to reduce the amount of boost going to the FPR. It then has a return line from the check valve that goes to the air intake hose (hence the drill bit, elbow and grommet).

Before people start saying "bleed the boost going to the FPR- WTF?"- this car runs ABSURDLY rich up top, I have never seen a stock car dump so much fuel in my life!!! I have bled off a hell of a lot more than this and was still richer than I would like!!! This kit in the couple test cars has lowered fuel pressure enough to make the car run more consistent on hot days without falling on it's face- yet remain very safely rich..

While I am more than confident based on over 1000 miles of testing that the kit is safe for all conditions, I would prefer the first few orders come from people with AF gauges just so they can monitor it for me.. If I hear of anyone runnig too lean, I will let you all know of the problem. I seriously doubt that will be an issue however- my car has been in FL on mid-90 degree days and up here in NY where it has been upper 40's at night with no adverse effects at all- I am just trying to play it safe ..

I hope you guys find the price fair enough for what you get, it is about $17 worth of stuff including the drill bit and I am doing your shopping, R&D and packing for you .. If you feel you need to copy it to save yourself the $8 and do all the running around for yourself, have fun- you unoriginal, can't figure anything out for yourself bastard ..

I am now accepting orders- my paypal address is sales@joepmbc.com

If you have any questions, either reply here or shoot me an email at kwiktsi@nycap.rr.com

ONCE AGAIN- this is not a cure all for all the tuning issues or stumbles that this car has, but it GREATLY improves the 4500 switchover stumble under boost and keeps the car from falling on it's face up top.. It is recommended that you at least have a K&N filter for increased air flow though, but it is not 100% necessary.

Thanks.
Joe
PS- Once I get the supplies on Tuesday, give me a couple of days to get the instructions written up (I am starting tonight, but need the kit here for reference purposes for me to finish them).

 

[kwiktsi]

Just FYI in case anyone asks- the reason(s) this goes back to the intake hose are 1)so the vacuum created in the intake pipe will help draw some pressure away from the FPR- even more so with more intake restriction- less air needs less fuel- and 2) not that it is much, you will have a leak of air that is "counted" by the MAF coming out of the checkvalve- any air that is counted, the ECU supplies fuel for- if the air leaks out, the fuel is there- the air isn't. While this isn't much at all, this car is so rich as it is that it doesn't need any reason to be any richer, so the air gets recycled back through the intake..

Just to re-iterate- I cannot promise that everyone will get the same gains from this- this car is so poorly tuned that no two run the same and climate plays a big role in how it runs also. Whether you "feel" a seat of the pants gain or not, it will definately help pull some of that excess fuel from the thing .
Joe

 

[ForceFed]

Ok ,this all sounds good but??....

What are you asking us to drill? I'm not sure i'm following the drill bit idea!I follow everthing up to there.A little more detail please as i do not plan on putting holes in my intake or anything crazy like that! Whats up with this joe?

 

[kwiktsi]

The hole is going in the plastic intake pipe before the MAF. You *can* substitute for drilling a hole if you have a K&N and just want to poke a hole in the neck of that like you did for the Air Temp sensor, but I prefer going further back on the intake hose. It is a 5/16" hole, so it is nothing too drastic. If you ever wanted to remove the kit, it would be easy to plug.
Joe

 

[kwiktsi]

yeah, I just re-read my post- it does look kind of like I am referring to the intake manifold .
Joe

 

[ForceFed]

ok ok wait ,I gr=et what you are saying now but if you go before the MAF you are re-introducing air that was in the motor already before the MAF so it can re-read that small amount of air?Wouldn't it make sense to put the air back into the motor after the MAF to lean out the mixture even more without having to bleed off as much?
Matt?

 

[laptopheaven]

I am guessing that it is such little amount of air it would not matter. The reasoning for before the MAF is just in case something goes wrong, it reads the air, so the motor wouldn't go lean.

 

[kwiktsi]

Exactly, that is why I prefer to go before the MAF- well I guess it is after if you are going in the direction of the airflow- I am thinking before it in the engine bay coming from the FPR- my bad .. The K&N thing is a last resort.
Joe

 

[ForceFed]

ok ok i got you ,you mean after the MAF but before the intake into the motor !Now that makes sense!That was where i got confused because it didnt make sense the way you typed it but now it does .It's just like i was thinking it shoud be!

 

[kwiktsi]

I am guessing that it is such little amount of air it would not matter. The reasoning for before the MAF is just in case something goes wrong, it reads the air, so the motor wouldn't go lean.

It is such a little amount that it wouldn't really matter, but any little bit will help since this car runs so rich .. The main reason for the hookup to the intake pipe is to use the vacuum that is in that pipe at WOT to help pull more away from the FPR- a clogged or restrictive filter will create more vacuum giving it less fuel- less airflow needs less fuel .. Trust me, it works .. This car just goes open loop and dumps fuel up top regardless of air flow or temperature, which it why it helps to mechanically manipulate the fuel pressure for boost/airflow.

Also, read my last reply- I really mean after the MAF if you follow the air flow ..
Joe

 

[kwiktsi]

ok ok i got you ,you mean after the MAF but before the intake into the motor !Now that makes sense!That was where i got confused because it didnt make sense the way you typed it but now it does .It's just like i was thinking it shoud be!

Sorry for the misunderstanding- it has been a long day, not thinking too clearly .
Joe

 

[ForceFed]

It's all good ,it's sunday and it's late so we will work with ya!
So we will still run uber rich at anything above 4500 because the com goes into open loop right?It is only possible to manipulate the fuel curve below this rpm or will the blled off help throughout the rpm band?

 

[kwiktsi]

You will still run safely rich above 4500, not uber rich anymore .. The problem was that at 4500 the car dumps so much fuel that it would fall on it's face under boost. This takes care of that by dropping the fuel pressure a bit while the car is under boost.

Below 4500 will have to be addressed electronically- that is next .

The pressure will be manipulated any time the car is under boost however. Vacuum and normal cruise will remain the same (for now- hehehe)
Joe

 

[trekv2]

hey you came back! GJ. on the low ballin tuning. i willkeep this in mind when all this gets worked out.

 

[kwiktsi]

Just curious- what do you mean by worked out? I'm lost .. this kit is "worked out", there are other products in the works to address other issues (in case there was a mis-understanding )..

I am going to stick around for now- I got a TON of email asking me to please stay and help out around here and telling me to ignore the a$$holes ... I'm trying ..
Joe

 

[kwiktsi]

damn, I gotta lay off the smilies!!!!
Joe

 

[RuggedMazda]

Stumble come sooner then 4500

From what have experienced, my stumble comes in at around 3000RPMs & fades out at 4000RPMs. After 4500 I feel the power just fine.
Ill still be buying the kit to see what effect it has, if not just to work on my car for the fun of it.
So what do you say about that kwiktsi? Does that sound right?
Maybe Im not getting it or maybe Im not running that
Rich above 4000RPMs for some reason?????

 

[PaulMP3]

Good work joe, you provide the best bang for the buck mod. Keep up the R&D!

 

[kwiktsi]

Re: Stumble come sooner then 4500

From what have experienced, my stumble comes in at around 3000RPMs & fades out at 4000RPMs. After 4500 I feel the power just fine.
Ill still be buying the kit to see what effect it has, if not just to work on my car for the fun of it.
So what do you say about that kwiktsi? Does that sound right?
Maybe Im not getting it or maybe Im not running that
Rich above 4000RPMs for some reason?????

That is probably because of how cool it's been lately- rich cars like cool weather.. Wait for a hot day and you will notice it .. Mine would surge off and on throughout the RPM range and just feel like a Hyundai above 4500 on hot days.. This smoothed a lot of it out down low and really improved the 4500 switchover- it pulls right to redline now with no problems.. The low RPM stuff is still there, just not as bad.. Driving the car from NY to FL was the best thing I could have done to get a feel for how it runs and when it does what it does... I would REALLY notice it if I were driving down the highway and I rolled on the throttle in fourth and let the car slowly accelerate without going WOT, it would pull nicely under boost than when it would hit 4500, it would feel like someone flipped a choke closed on it!!!

Where in NY are you? If you aren't too far, we can meet up and compare notes and such.. I'll let you take mine for a spin to do a back to back comparison. Let me know.
Joe

 

[kwiktsi]

Good work joe, you provide the best bang for the buck mod. Keep up the R&D!

Thanks!!! Normally, I would just go for an AFC or something to fine tune with, but mechanically is really the only way to address this with the ECU as-is... It does make for cheap modding though ..
Joe