Extra injector set up....

[Keith@FP]

The best way to do things depends on your criteria. Cost, expected boost level, complexity, ease of installation, ease of tuning - tell us that, and we can give suggestions.

Saying that you're going to go with a standalone is the first step. How are you going to wire it in? In parallel with the stock ECU, controlling only fuel and timing? Or are you going to give it the job of controlling the entire car?

Once you've decided that, you need to determine what else it needs to do. Traction control? Water injection? Boost control? Find the ECU that will fit your needs.

Now, how much do you know about programming these? Probably not much, or you wouldn't have to ask. That means that you should only buy from someone who has the ability and the desire to support you. Getting the basics down is easy, getting the car to run well is very hard.

The parts you need will depend on the ECU you choose and exactly how you wire it in. Can it use stock sensors? Does it come with a MAP sensor, or do you need to supply one? Is the factory TPS compatible? What about adaptors for the wiring harness? Does it deal with low or high impedance injectors, and what do you need to run the injectors you've chosen? These are questions that your supplier should be able to answer. If they can't, then you're buying from the wrong person.

It's like saying "I've decided I need a truck. What do I need?". It's not that simple...

Keith

 

[ArkosP5]

Ok, ... let's see if I can narrow this down.

Protege5 (with an FM turbo in its future):

Cost, ... well, let's say under 2K for the standalone (only the hardware)

I would prefer to get the ECU first before adding the turbo, so it would have to run NA as well as boosted.

Boost would be conservative, 8psi at the most with a stock bottom end, maybe 12 if I beef it up. I would like to be in the 200-250 whp range. I'm not trying to go all out, I want my P5 to do everything well, not one thing great.

I would prefer to replace the factory ECU. I would like it to be turbo friendly in every way.

My ultimate goal is to get down to buying as few "pieces" as possible, and having each of those pieces do as much as possible (as many different things as possible). I would like everything to be removable in the end (so no random hacking at stuff).


All tuning would have to be done by someone else (not me)
As far as who, when/if I get the money and y'all are available for such things, I was hoping y'all could do it.

I'm not trying to throw out theoretical questions, I'm trying to map out where I'll be going in the next few years. I only want to buy things once, so I need to make sure that I won't short change myself in one aspect just to obtain a different goal. But I'm not made of money, so everything has to be not necessarily cost effective, but intelligently purchased.

 

[Keith@FP]

A full standalone is going to be expensive. There's no way around it. $2k is going to get you a decent unit without installation or tuning. You're not going to drop it off at a shop and pick it up a few days later with everything perfect - fully replacing the stock ECU means there will be a huge amount of tweaking to get everything right. Heck, even Mazda gets it wrong.

We're hoping to do a parallel setup in our own car, and frankly I'd rather learn on our own instead of a customer car. That's not going to happen until mid-May at the earliest - we have 6 engines to build, a week-long race and the Supertuner competition before then.

Keith

 

[chdesign]

Hey Keith what do you think of the Greddy REbic units to control 4 injectors one in each intake runner. Otherwords Rebic controlling an additional injector for each cylinder.

 

[Keith@FP]

That's a piggyback system, similar to the ones that we use on the 1999-2003 Miatas. I don't know the GReddy unit in particular, but generally piggybacks are a decent solution. You'll still have the stock ECU to contend with, so you'll have to prevent it from pulling fuel.

Keith

 

[Kooldino]

That's a piggyback system, similar to the ones that we use on the 1999-2003 Miatas. I don't know the GReddy unit in particular, but generally piggybacks are a decent solution. You'll still have the stock ECU to contend with, so you'll have to prevent it from pulling fuel.

Keith

Speaking of pulling fuel, I'm having some exhaust work done at a shop when I turbo my car, but I planned on doing some of the mods (FMU, IC mounting, and maybe O2 tricker) before I got to the shop. Would it be safe to drive the car with the O2 tricker naturally aspirated?

 

[Keith@FP]

No problem. If it's hooked up correctly, it doesn't do a thing until you make boost.

Keith

 

[Kooldino]

Good deal. I hope my install goes well!