i figured i would post this because there seems to be no useful info on this topic in this forum.
1. a chirping sound coming from the engine bay at idle or low speed (1st-2nd) shifts intermittently.
2. occasionally hard to shift from neutral to first at a red light, or from 1st to 2nd
3. pedal does not feel light to the foot anymore.
4. it is hard to shift into reverse
5. you put the clutch to the floor go to shift and you grind into the next gear
6. inability to shift into or out of gear
this is for a failing throwout bearing. in my car i noticed some of these signs earlier but thought it was me, the pedal feel and hard shifting were 1st signs. the next sign was the chirping sound when me and my friend pulled the throwout bearing it was in about 3 distinct pieces. but at 147,000 miles and still on factory clutch it actually looked great, must say these cars have very reliable clutches. and just some recommendations when doing this job, check all motor and tranny mounts for wear, i had a few that were bad, only mazda dealership had them locally, and surprisingly not that much more than orielly's wanted for same part but special order. the back tranny mount i could not get out and it was toast but had to leave it. but replaced the toasted front one and the side one was ok. my motor mounts were still good, but still a good time to check them all. also i would recommend checking all your bolts as we had a few that were from the factory over tightened and very hard to get out. you need several jack stands and jacks for this job. you need new gear oil (75w90 castrol synthetic is what i used) and be ready to replace your cv axles if they have tears in them, my cv axle on passenger side was seized into the hub assembly, this wont hurt anything but just be fore warned. this may mean you, or i may have to replace both hub and cv axle if either fails on that side. you do not need brake fluid as some write ups on clutch jobs say, the fluid lines and slave cylinder do not come undone in the process.
1. a chirping sound coming from the engine bay at idle or low speed (1st-2nd) shifts intermittently.
2. occasionally hard to shift from neutral to first at a red light, or from 1st to 2nd
3. pedal does not feel light to the foot anymore.
4. it is hard to shift into reverse
5. you put the clutch to the floor go to shift and you grind into the next gear
6. inability to shift into or out of gear
this is for a failing throwout bearing. in my car i noticed some of these signs earlier but thought it was me, the pedal feel and hard shifting were 1st signs. the next sign was the chirping sound when me and my friend pulled the throwout bearing it was in about 3 distinct pieces. but at 147,000 miles and still on factory clutch it actually looked great, must say these cars have very reliable clutches. and just some recommendations when doing this job, check all motor and tranny mounts for wear, i had a few that were bad, only mazda dealership had them locally, and surprisingly not that much more than orielly's wanted for same part but special order. the back tranny mount i could not get out and it was toast but had to leave it. but replaced the toasted front one and the side one was ok. my motor mounts were still good, but still a good time to check them all. also i would recommend checking all your bolts as we had a few that were from the factory over tightened and very hard to get out. you need several jack stands and jacks for this job. you need new gear oil (75w90 castrol synthetic is what i used) and be ready to replace your cv axles if they have tears in them, my cv axle on passenger side was seized into the hub assembly, this wont hurt anything but just be fore warned. this may mean you, or i may have to replace both hub and cv axle if either fails on that side. you do not need brake fluid as some write ups on clutch jobs say, the fluid lines and slave cylinder do not come undone in the process.
