kevinfelker42
Member
I own a yellow MP3 completely stock,
What would be the most cost efficient ways to get improvement of the HP in it?
What would be the most cost efficient ways to get improvement of the HP in it?
Best bang for buck modifications?
- Thread starter kevinfelker42
- Start date
Stickers, lots and lots of stickers. But seriously use the search feature and search around for Cold Air Intake, Short Ram Intake, cat-back or high flow exaust(sp?). Or if you willing to drop a grand or three go on over to the F/I fourm and learn about turboing your MP3.
Welcom to the board. Sir Nuke will give you a more formal welcome shortly.
Welcom to the board. Sir Nuke will give you a more formal welcome shortly.
If you are planing to stay N/A you might want to look into some cams or high compression pistons and deffanatly a cai... How ever you will notice a big diffrence with pretty much any part you decide to install 5 hp is a big diffrence on your ass dyno, though it doesnt sound like much on paper, and one little eurothane bushing will make you jump for joy after your first test drive. Just take it slow, buy only the best, and before you know it you will take a step back from your car and said " oohhh yyyyeeeeeeaaaaaaaa" ( I do it all the time hehe)
sundevilMP5
Member
actually...i think there could be a double meaning here...
theoretically speaking...the best "bang for your buck" would be a turbo...consider the output for the price...versus say an intake for a couple hundred bucks...
however, if you're going for the cheapest mod that gives you the most power...probably i would go with an intake...stock cars for some reason always seem to be restricted heavily (stupid sound and emissions)...check out the injen and you won't be disappointed...
theoretically speaking...the best "bang for your buck" would be a turbo...consider the output for the price...versus say an intake for a couple hundred bucks...
however, if you're going for the cheapest mod that gives you the most power...probably i would go with an intake...stock cars for some reason always seem to be restricted heavily (stupid sound and emissions)...check out the injen and you won't be disappointed...
- :
- 2017 Shelby GT350
I say the best "affordable" bang for the buck is the Mazdaspeed Cams. But first things first, Intake & Exhaust.
The cheapest hp is definatly turbo.
With a stage 1 turbo kit at $2595 you get 160whp that equates to roughly 190hp at the crank.
That will be impossible to match with an N/A setup for the price range. Plan on spending more. And the beauty of turbos are there upgradabiluty. Add an intercooler and you are at 200whp.
With a stage 1 turbo kit at $2595 you get 160whp that equates to roughly 190hp at the crank.
That will be impossible to match with an N/A setup for the price range. Plan on spending more. And the beauty of turbos are there upgradabiluty. Add an intercooler and you are at 200whp.
If all you want is some good sound, get a CAI and a cat back exhaust system. You might get about 5hp to the wheels. But by the time you've done that, you have spent about $800 for 5hp. Sucks huh! If you are smart, you will not waste your money on trivial stuff like that and save it for a turbo.
kevinfelker42
Member
will shops install these turbos for you, I wouldn't even know where to begin...
What is Stage 1? Is there a Stage 2, 3, etc?
Why Stage 1?
Will turbos void a warranty? Wear out the engine quicker?
What is Stage 1? Is there a Stage 2, 3, etc?
Why Stage 1?
Will turbos void a warranty? Wear out the engine quicker?
Yo!
Dude if you got alot of money i would go turbo. But like most people $3000 is hard to come by, so unless you know for sure you can get a turbo then you might as well go for the intake and exhaust. Yeah sure you wont get alot more HP but at least your ride will sound better and have alot quicker response. I know i dont have the money for a turbo so im sticking with the little things for now. Just do what your wallet feels.
By the way i noticed your from MS too. Maybe i will see you around sometime on the streets.
Dude if you got alot of money i would go turbo. But like most people $3000 is hard to come by, so unless you know for sure you can get a turbo then you might as well go for the intake and exhaust. Yeah sure you wont get alot more HP but at least your ride will sound better and have alot quicker response. I know i dont have the money for a turbo so im sticking with the little things for now. Just do what your wallet feels.
By the way i noticed your from MS too. Maybe i will see you around sometime on the streets.
I have been watching what everyone else has been doing for the past yr now. the best bang for buck mod def. is a turbo, i almost bought CAI and header, but if you paln on turbo'ing like i do that will all get replaced anyways. so i have been waiting and within the next 6 months i should be boosted and i havent wasted any $$ on stuff that will be replaced. But with a turbo you should be willing to shell out around 3500-4000 when its all said and done.
Unless you do it yourself like I did. Be prepared to spend about 5 days doing it by yourself.Take it slow at first. I'm doing a gradual buildup to turbo. I'm getting my heavy duty clutch and lightweight flywheel tomorrow. I should be turboed by the end of the summer. From there it's LSD, new tires and rims and beyond that I'll be happy with whatever else comes our way.
RR-Racing.com
Member
Aluminum flywheel, it really makes a difference. Every single one of the MP3 Speed Touring cars use it. And if you have to change your clutch anyway, its definitely worth doing.
... and I sell the billet Fidanza flywheels at a very good price... with or w/o Clutchmasters clutch.
-Rafi
www.RR-Racing.com
... and I sell the billet Fidanza flywheels at a very good price... with or w/o Clutchmasters clutch.
-Rafi
www.RR-Racing.com
I do plan on doing the turbo install myself, i was thinking more of a weekend job, but i guess we will se how long it really takes. I plan on upgraded clutch and fly wheel soon, then custom 3" exhaust, boost controler, lsd after i get the turbo.
RR-Racing.com
Member
LinuxRacr said:
Hey,
.... and there are two other reasons upgrading to a Fidanza flywheel is a good idea:
(1) You save the cost and time of having your stock flywheel machined (which you would have to do when you change the clutch).
(2) Every time you machine the flywheel you increase the flywheel's "step height," this has the negative effect of actually reducing the pressure plate clamping load. From experience I have found many machinist remove too much material from the flywheel when machining -- this is even worse.
-Rafi
RR-Racing.com
Member
You need to install a new friction surface on an aluminum flywheel when it is time to install a new clutch.
Rafi
Rafi
BryanPendleton
Member
Kooldino said:
Resurface the flywheel. . . its just like turning your rotors when you install new brake pads. Its not necessary, but anyone who cares about there car, and it looking for maximum life and performance from their clutch will have the flywheel resurfaced/turned/machined.
RR-Racing.com
Member
BryanPendleton said:
Actually.... there is hardly ever a reason to turn rotors. As far as brakes go, if you are installing new pads, it is always best to bed them in on used rotors, and if you are installing new rotors, it is best to bed them in with old pads.
Clutch/flywheel is different, but in the case of the Fidanza, you should replace the friction surface.
-Rafi
