bank 1 too rich

I've had the too rich code for year's now, no ems. It come's on and off, and it's on more than it's off.

Getting a haltec standalone soon, waiting on this custom dp to be finshed so I can install it along with my 440's and wlbro pump all sitting in my room chilling. Repalced a couple parts nothing helped. checked wire's on the stock ecu even.
 
alright ill go down the checklist i googled the term bank 1 too lean and here is what it gave as possible problems.

The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. (possibly)
There could be a vacuum leak. (nope, get a 22-23 vac)
There could be a fuel pressure or delivery problem (highly doubt it since it gives me normal 11.5-12.5 afrs in boost and 14.5-15.5 out of boost)
 
hey does anyone know the best place to get a quality code scanner for the cel. im not 100% on how they work but i need one that would be universal.. match the family minivan as well as my msp. wheres the best place to get one?
 
alright ill go down the checklist i googled the term bank 1 too lean and here is what it gave as possible problems.

The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. (possibly)
There could be a vacuum leak. (nope, get a 22-23 vac)
There could be a fuel pressure or delivery problem (highly doubt it since it gives me normal 11.5-12.5 afrs in boost and 14.5-15.5 out of boost)

Does your car bog down badly? You can clean your MAF and see if it helps. You can also unplug it (you will get a CEL) and see if it runs smoother though I wouldn't boost much if at all with it unplugged..... I wonder how the SS would handle no signal from the MAF? I unplugged my MAF once to test it b/c I thought I got some K&N recharge oil on it (I did,) but I was didn't have a SSAFC so I don't know if that will make a difference.
 
I replaced my MAF,PCV,FPR code still pop's
on and off. Even replaced intake and wga not related but had to. Perfect vacuum also.

alright ill go down the checklist i googled the term bank 1 too lean and here is what it gave as possible problems.

The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. (possibly)
There could be a vacuum leak. (nope, get a 22-23 vac)
There could be a fuel pressure or delivery problem (highly doubt it since it gives me normal 11.5-12.5 afrs in boost and 14.5-15.5 out of boost)
 
ill check out the MAF, only time i bog is when the car is first started from a cold start, but after a minute or two it gets back to normal.
 
the front one was replaced within the last 6 months on mine, which is bank 1 so its not a sensor problem its actually either being rich or MAF and i hope its MAF
 
did a small MAF check today, disconnected it while idling, first time it changed idle, cant say it improved, idle rpm dropped slightly but stayed stable, and when i plugged it back in the car spuddered like a mofo, second time i did it same except the car stalled when i plugged it back in, could this mean anything? whenever i did this on my protege5 it never stalled or sputtered when reconnecting it, time to clean/replace?
 
did a small MAF check today, disconnected it while idling, first time it changed idle, cant say it improved, idle rpm dropped slightly but stayed stable, and when i plugged it back in the car spuddered like a mofo, second time i did it same except the car stalled when i plugged it back in, could this mean anything? whenever i did this on my protege5 it never stalled or sputtered when reconnecting it, time to clean/replace?

Cleaning it wouldn't hurt. You can buy MAF cleaner for about $7
 
yeah i know that, last time i thought i had trouble with MAF with my p5 when i disconnected it idle didnt change in the slightest, so it makes me think its at least doing SOMETHING to the car if idle changed. ill update when i do that.
 
so i changed my MAF sensor, and for the first 40 miles everything was great, the CEL didnt come back (which was awesome because the first time i reset it it came back after 4 miles.) then when i rolled over to 41 miles BAM check engine, WTF! im getting so pissed, i have no vacuum leaks, i have a nice vacuum of 22 when idle and around 25 when coasting in gear. upstream o2 sensor is only like 7 months old. and i have a good condition MAF sensor i just replaced my old one with (the old one had a black spot on it so it was due anyway) what else could it be? i took off the MSP valve cover overlay thing and my pcv valve was out a hair, not enough to make a leak from what i could tell, pushed it back in and CEL didnt go away. drivability is not affected by CEL, what else you guys think?
 
you have a resistor box...try reinstalling your stock injectors at 7psi and see if it goes away
 
you have a resistor box...try reinstalling your stock injectors at 7psi and see if it goes away

yeah that might be a problem, i got the car with it, so if you asked me how to (un)install id say (braindead
because im sure id have to take the resistor box off, and from the research ive done its because the injectors i have are low impedance, and the mazdaspeed stockers are high impedance. and im assuming its hard wired in there, ill take a look after work, or maybe during my break.
 
lol, if i do decide to get rid of the resistor box, wrx injectors are high impedance as well right? are they direct fit though..?
 
I'm pretty sure you need ems for those, not 100% sure. I do mainly mechanical stuff, tuning is still new to me. Someone watching this thread chime in with your knowledge on tuning please!
 
could it also be from running 10 afrs? when i reset my ecu for some reason i think my split second lost its tune because since i did it ive been getting stock looking tune, 10 afrs possibly less, i think my wideband stops at 10. i guess ill have to reset it, reapply tune and drive 100 miles with that. i thought it was originally giving it becuase when id spike in boost the afrs would go from a nice 12-12.5 down to 10 or even less
 
ok so i kinda realized i dont think its from the injectors since they have been on since before my time and i didnt buy the car with CEL. so it must just be a part that went bad, so i guess heres an update, i reset and thought i was in the clear yet another time, except this time i went about 90-100 miles before it popped back on. itd be sick if i could just keep doing that and it would keep taking longer before itd show up! but sadly not the case so i have cleaned MAF and no dice, o2 sensor was changed about 6 months ago and the wires still even look brand new. what else could it be? i have a nice 20 vacuum.
 
Back