What have you done to your CX-5 today?

I just checked...now, I'm 5-1, and my head is directly in line with the low profile headrest, but not touching it or being pushed forward...it sits about 1-2 inches back from my head. I did not swap back to the original to see if it was any different.
 
I just checked...now, I'm 5-1, and my head is directly in line with the low profile headrest, but not touching it or being pushed forward...it sits about 1-2 inches back from my head. I did not swap back to the original to see if it was any different.
Thank you.

Man, the optics in that photo are deceiving.
 
I installed some 3.5” Pioneer speakers in the dashboard of my ‘13 Sport. I also used 600 hz bass blockers to prevent the dash from rattling or the front doors being robbed of power. Fantastic upgrade. I wish I had done it years ago.

Im going to install some Kilmat throughout the car next month and replace the stock door speakers while I’m at it. That should keep me entertained for the next 10 years of ownership lol.
 
Just watch out, if you install an amp. I have blown mine + the amp, most likely because of this 3.5" speaker addition.
 

Sorry no pics, but I promise it happened! If you go to the “etrailer.com” website they have pics and installation videos of both the draw-tite and curt receivers mounted on CX-5s. Their video comparing the two was helpful for me in deciding which to buy.

Note to Mods...I apologize if this sounds like a commercial, but I have no affiliation with the company other than being a customer. Simply passing on my experience to possibly help others looking to buy/install a hitch/receiver.
 
So which hitch did you get...Class II or Class III?

And why did you not opt for the factory one? When I was buying my car, a Draw Tite dealer was nice enough to send me a pic of an install. The factory one seemed to sit up closer to the underside of the car (protrudes through the bumper rather than hanging under the bumper). That's the main reason I got a Mazda hitch...it "looked" OEM.

My only regret is not realizing it was a Class II hitch. That may have swayed my decision.
 
So which hitch did you get...Class II or Class III?

And why did you not opt for the factory one? When I was buying my car, a Draw Tite dealer was nice enough to send me a pic of an install. The factory one seemed to sit up closer to the underside of the car (protrudes through the bumper rather than hanging under the bumper). That's the main reason I got a Mazda hitch...it "looked" OEM.

My only regret is not realizing it was a Class II hitch. That may have swayed my decision.

AD...I went with the Draw-tite class III hitch. I evaluated the OEM option, but in the end, I wanted something stronger and I did not want to cut up my rear bumper. My receiver/hitch will be used mostly for a bike carrier but will see a small trailer once, maybe twice, a year.
 
AD...I went with the Draw-tite class III hitch. I evaluated the OEM option, but in the end, I wanted something stronger and I did not want to cut up my rear bumper. My receiver/hitch will be used mostly for a bike carrier but will see a small trailer once, maybe twice, a year.
Yeh, I'm kinda wishing I had gone that way, although a Class II should be fine for anything the CX-5 has the capacity to tow. I got lucky that the dealer who installed my hitch made it look just like the pics on Mazda's website.

My primary hitch need is for a cargo carrier, because here in the sticks we have to haul our own trash to drop-off centers. I've kept my truck for that and for other uses (hauling firewood on the property), but I've got a utility trailer, and some day I might want to get rid of the truck's maintenance/repairs/insurance/taxes. I only use it once or twice a month.

I'm still haven't got a ball mount for my CX-5. Reese sells various mounts and a Class II 2" ball. I guess I should order one.
 
Yeh, I'm kinda wishing I had gone that way, although a Class II should be fine for anything the CX-5 has the capacity to tow. I got lucky that the dealer who installed my hitch made it look just like the pics on Mazda's website.

My primary hitch need is for a cargo carrier, because here in the sticks we have to haul our own trash to drop-off centers. I've kept my truck for that and for other uses (hauling firewood on the property), but I've got a utility trailer, and some day I might want to get rid of the truck's maintenance/repairs/insurance/taxes. I only use it once or twice a month.

I'm still haven't got a ball mount for my CX-5. Reese sells various mounts and a Class II 2" ball. I guess I should order one.

That’s great about your dealer-installed hitch, I have seen pictures of others that didn’t turn out so good. Hey, I understand about the cargo carrier. We have a place in SC that requires we take our trash to a drop-off center as well. I know Reese makes good products, but I think I’m going to check out Harbor Freight and/or Northern Tools first. Maybe get one of the multi-ball units...
 
I know Reese makes good products, but I think I’m going to check out Harbor Freight and/or Northern Tools first. Maybe get one of the multi-ball units...

That's not a bad idea. I have a 2" ball mounted on my truck's hitch, and also carry a 1 7/8" with me just in case. Although right off the bat I only see them for Class III/V.
 
I applied some Kilmat to the drivers side door and replaced the OEM speaker there with an aftermarket Rockford Fosgate. I added some denim insulation between the plastic door trim and the inner door metal. I didn’t have time to do the remaining doors so I added Kilmat to the rear hatch, the spare tire well, and over the rear wheel wells. I added denim insulation to the rear hatch too for good measure (between the plastic trim and the inner metal).

I’ll get the passenger door and rear doors done in the same manner (Kilmat, denim insulation, new speakers) when I have some more time. I’m looking forward to tomorrow’s commute to see what kind of difference I made.
 
Did you put the Kilmat on the metal door skin? Some say to put it on the speaker baffle board.
I found the rear door panel a little tricky to remove but there's a pdf to help.
Is it hard to apply to the rear wheel wells? I guess you pull out the plastic trim there too.
 
Yeah, I put kilmat on both the outer door skin as well as the inner one. Not a whole lot but enough for at least 50% coverage. I applied some to the giant piece of plastic secured inside the door too as it was so large, and put some Kilmat on the back of the plastic door trim.

I pulled enough of the wheel well trim back to be able to fit my arm back in there from the trunk side. Pull out those two push style clips in the lower trim where the hatch locks into. Pull the trim up and out. Remove two more of those clips from the side pieces of trim trim, unscrew the top screw on each piece of trim, and remove the bolts that secure those tie down type hooks. The trim pulls back pretty easily from the side of the car. The front of the wheel well was going to be tough to reach so I left it alone.
 
Sounds like plenty to me. I put maybe a half sqft or so on the door skins. I used Dynamst but last week I bought some clone stuff at Autozone for half the money. I can hear the difference but I also removed the hood pad and put numerous pieces there.

I think I might remove the front fender plastic inner liners and treat that area somehow.
 
What I’m doing made a great difference in reducing cabin noise. The rear cargo area seemed to make the most noise and that’s very quiet now. Drivers door noticeably quiet. Only bummer is I can tell how loud the floor is now. Going to finish the other three doors first, and then I need a game plan for the floor. That’s going to be a PITA to get to.

interestingly, I don’t think I’ll have to do the roof or the hood. The engine is kind of noisy at low speeds but I can’t hear it at all on the highway. Don’t see a point in doing the hood as my main goal was to reduce cabin noise at higher speeds.
 
I agree about the cabin noise. I will consider noise when I get new tires.
I think I read somewhere you could add an extra bottom door seal to help.
 
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