What can I expect from the following combinations?

Protege_Speed

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2002.5 ES Auto with MSP Conversion
Okay, here goes. I have a 02' ES auto and I have the following shopping list. I need opinions from all you experts on this board. I can't afford a turbo right now so I am going to stay NA. Can you guys tell me what I should expect with the following combinations (noise, low end power, high end power, advantanges/disadvantages)? Recommendations are welcome.

1st Combo
-Wagner Shorty Header
-Wagner Downpipe with cat
-Wagner Midpipe with cat
-Racing Beat Exhaust

2nd Combo
-Wagner Shorty Header
-Wagner Downpipe with cat
-Wagner Midpipe without cat
-Racing Beat Exhaust

3rd Combo
-Wagner Shorty Header
-Downpipe without cat (not sure if Wagner has one)
-Wagner Midpipe with cat
-Racing Beat Exhaust

Will there be a problem with the midpipe being 2.5" and the racing beat exhaust being 2.375"? Or should I look at a >2.5" exhaust? My main objective is to gain lower end power and keeping the noise down (thus the RB exhaust). Thanks all.
 
you'd want a 2.25" system, mandrel bent, 3rd combo will give you the most power. having the cat further away from the engine is better. also if you do plan on going turbo, most of the stuff can be reused!

me guess 118whp from 3rd combo
 
i always say this, so im sorry if i piss you off, but you have an auto. all of those modifications you listed will give you the most power at higher rpms. if you dont have that sport shifter auto or whatever you call it, you will prolly not notice ONE real bit of difference in power, simply because most of the power will be had AFTER the computer shifts. if you can shift it on your own, more power to ya however.
 
Does it make that much of a difference if its automatic with or without the sport shifter cause I also have the sport-matic transmission ?
 
yes. otherwise it is VERY likely the computer will shift before you feel the real power. thats my estimate anyhow.
 
Matthew said:
i always say this, so im sorry if i piss you off, but you have an auto. all of those modifications you listed will give you the most power at higher rpms. if you dont have that sport shifter auto or whatever you call it, you will prolly not notice ONE real bit of difference in power, simply because most of the power will be had AFTER the computer shifts. if you can shift it on your own, more power to ya however.
No worries. I wish I had a 5spd but my wife has to be able to drive the car as well. As far as the computer shifting with the auto, I was thinking the same thing and so I did a run with my gtech to to see the shift points. I attached some screenshots below to show the rpms when the computer shifts. I was basically flooring it all the way to 90mph.

The first peak is the 1st gear shift to 2nd.
RPMs.jpg


HP.jpg


Speed.jpg


HPTQ.jpg
 
why bother with a shorty header? get rid of both restrictive cats and run MIL eliminators to block any check engine lights.
 
Captain KRM P5 said:
why bother with a shorty header? get rid of both restrictive cats and run MIL eliminators to block any check engine lights.
I thought about that but with my luck I'll never get the light off. I guess I am looking for easy bolt-ons. Plus, I live in NJ and inspection would be a b****. Keeping the cats just seem like the easy way to go. Oh yeah, noise is another reason.
 
apex motorsports 12 bucks for a cel fix or do it yourself for like 3 bucks and some of your time. easy as hell and has still not thrown a cel for me since i put it in.
 
Okay, so maybe I could try it but which header should I get then? I have been reading around and it looked like the shorty was the best one for an auto.
 
i have an auto as well, and my old car was auto and i had a lot done to it an if your normal driving you really wont tell any difference, but if your racing/flooring it youll feel an notice the difference
 
Matthew said:
yes. otherwise it is VERY likely the computer will shift before you feel the real power. thats my estimate anyhow.
100% true (imo). The factory shift points on the auto tranny are set so low it's not funny. Since I'm in the same boat with the wife needing to drive the 5 and it was originally bought for her in the first place, I'm stuck with the auto. Albeit the sport-s***, uh, shift auto. At least I have the option of shifting to optimize the powerband, so some mods are being worked in.
As far as the emissions thing--that's the biggest reason I'm going with the WagnerMotorsports shorty, plus it'll be better for retaining low end power (or so I've heard). Good luck with whichever set-up you decide to go with. If you go with the DP with the cat, let us know how you make out, since that's something I might be interested in down the road.
 
Protege_Speed said:
Okay, so maybe I could try it but which header should I get then? I have been reading around and it looked like the shorty was the best one for an auto.
matthew beat me to it on the CEL/MIL fix. i think the best header for any car - auto or stick - is one that eliminates the most restriction like the OBX does.
 
Excuse my ignorance but what do you do with the other O2 sensor? Sorry for the dumb question but I really don't know.
 
sidpro5 said:
100% true (imo). The factory shift points on the auto tranny are set so low it's not funny. Since I'm in the same boat with the wife needing to drive the 5 and it was originally bought for her in the first place, I'm stuck with the auto. Albeit the sport-s***, uh, shift auto. At least I have the option of shifting to optimize the powerband, so some mods are being worked in.
As far as the emissions thing--that's the biggest reason I'm going with the WagnerMotorsports shorty, plus it'll be better for retaining low end power (or so I've heard). Good luck with whichever set-up you decide to go with. If you go with the DP with the cat, let us know how you make out, since that's something I might be interested in down the road.
When shifting in sport-shift mode and in order to get the best out of the motor, is it best to shift at or close to redline at every gear? I thought the computer picks the right rpm to shift at so it provides the most power. I think I've read somewhere that if you had a sport shift, not just mazdas, you should let the computer shift for you when doing 1/4 mile runs. The sport-shift helps when you are road racing or autoXing.
 
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Protege_Speed said:
Excuse my ignorance but what do you do with the other O2 sensor? Sorry for the dumb question but I really don't know.
they will have places to plug them in...the first on the header the second on the test pipe or at the end of the header. that is, if its a decent header. i wouldnt buy a header that doesnt have two bungs for the o2 sensors.
 
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