Using a soldering iron to loosen nut?
- Thread starter coldie123
- Start date
Glowmunkey
Member
Dude, I tried to remain polite and continue this as a conversation, that was simply rude and useless. Just trying to point out that there is a limit to the practicality of metalurgy when you're talking about working on something as simple as a nut on an endlink. It's called overengineering, and it's the reason that most engineers should not be allowed to work on vehicles. For some reason the dumb wrenches always seem to make faster cars...Sir Nuke said:
My comment was simple....first you said to get it all RED HOT and go at it like a dingo....then in just two posts ago you say "Heat, if used properly, will not cause problems" with this statement I whole heartedly agree, but somewhat contradictory.....but I am sorry...getting a fastener of any kind RED HOT is not the proper use of heat for this, IF you want to reuse the fastener, regardless of its application. Sorry....and speaking of over engineering.....you could not possibly work in an industry that is more over engineered that I do, even if you were litterly a rocket scientist......and I happen to be a WRENCH...not an engineer. The fact that I am a wrench in a totally over engineered industry.......but one where the craftsmen do things the RIGHT way....but applying heat to very small fasteners is just not practical and to think you will not cause some damage. Just the fact of the matter.Glowmunkey said:
RyanJayG said:
So does length wise means cutting into the one of the flat sides on the outside of the hex nut towards the bolt? or does it mean cutting into the top of the nut, down the axis of the bolt? sorry for all the questions, but i wanna make sure i do it right the first time.
i don't think i can cut the nut from both sides of the bolt coz the nut is quite close to the strut shaft and the bottom spring seat, so there's not enough room position the dremel there
also i tried turning the bolt using an allen key while holding the nut with vise grips but that was no use... couldn't get much leverage out of a 3" long hex key
Cut the nut down the leangth of the bolt. If you can only cut down one side that's fin, just pry it off the rest of the way. I've done this too many times. Heating the nut is fine...you don't have to super heat the damn thing, your not gonna damage anything and just replace the nut anyway. Auto shops use whatever they can to get bolts off.
I did 2 of the springs on SpicyMchaggis' car without removing the endlinks because I could not get them off. You can get enough movement to swing the strut assembly out of the wheel well to get at the top of the strut. Be careful not to stress the joint on the endlink when moving it around because you will seperate it!
You have to work in tight quarters and be careful not to ding up your fender when that spring goes TWANG if you arent using a spring compressor.
You have to work in tight quarters and be careful not to ding up your fender when that spring goes TWANG if you arent using a spring compressor.
cool thanks a lot for the tips guys.
gbourdon do you know if you can change both the front and the back springs (on a P5) without removing the endlinks?
also, does anyone know how long wd40 remains flammable for? i've sprayed heaps of it on the nut and bolt and don't want the dremel to spark a fire (boom01)
cheers,
coldie
gbourdon do you know if you can change both the front and the back springs (on a P5) without removing the endlinks?
also, does anyone know how long wd40 remains flammable for? i've sprayed heaps of it on the nut and bolt and don't want the dremel to spark a fire (boom01)
cheers,
coldie
dont worrya bout the WD-40, becuase although it is flamable, it pretty much takes an open flame to ignite it. dont worry about sparks hitting it. and if you still worry about it get a can of starting fluid and spray it on to wash off the WD-40 after its had a chance to soak in. then wait a minute or so becuase starting fluid evaporates very quickly.
