UPDATE: Speed5hornets new part and countless promlems! NEED HELP

speed5hornet

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Mazda, Protege5
UPDATED 10/6 - GO TO END OF THREAD

ITS A LOT TO READ, BUT TRUST ME ITS WORTH IT

okay so igot the pg single runner intake mani installed at pg! YEEEAAHH....so that was a pain in the boothay lol. The car would idle...and then die. It would give it self gas like crazy, and the idle would be all over the place....and then die...Well there was a vaccum leak, pg fixed that, YEAH! Well thennnn (we installed a new throttle body too) and the spring was loose so whenever you would hit the gas...the throttle would stay where you put it...ie when i backed up and let off the gas, the car accuatly accelarated backwards and kept going in reverse. Needless to say scared the crap out me. Okay we fixed that...YEAH! Well thennnn the car is suposed to have rougher idle and harder cold starts with this mani right? But my boost/vac guage reads about "8" at idle and about "18" when cruizing!!! Also my car would die when started...unless you gave it gas...and at idle my lil' 4-banger sounded like a 440hemi. It was rumbling and stuttering like crazy and ppl said it was an obvious misfire. I was like "nah, its just the new intake mani" wellll i got a CEL the next day..guess what two codes:

P0300
P0340

cam position sensor and random cylinder misfire!!!
(bang)
now im mad, how can this happen!

obviously if the cam position sensor "magically" went bad a week after the intake mani install that would cause random cylinder misfires if its getting a bad reading from the cam position, duh! But what the heck about the vaccum guage! "8" at idle and "18" while cruzing!!! Other than that when the car is under load it feels fine! If i let of the gas when just cruzing and hit the gas again...ie letting of the gas, the car bucks like a bronco when i both let off and get back on the gas...and the a/f rations jump to 11 when i hit the gas again. Mind you this is just cruzing and trying to keep the same speed...it seems almost impossible to keep the speed...possible promlem due to the cam position sensor?

PG looked everywhere for vaccum leaks and found nothing, i even have brandy spanking new vaccum lines put on and vibrant vaccum distribution block.....WHAT IS GOING ON! Could it really be just the cam position sensor causeing the wired vaccum guage readings, strong bucking of vehicle, and horrride starting?

ok typing complete.....lol
 
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I'll second that...

short answer yes.

Long answer FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU!!!!


EDIT**Wish I could help, may want to check the boost guage against one that you know works, may be calibrated incorrectly, which will do absolutely nothing to make your car run better...

Gremlins....I determine....
 
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ken put in 3 different boost guages...they all read the same. So forcey you think that the cam position sensor could be causing everything?
 
gimme a shout if you you wanna get together and check it out.

i would hit you up on that offer but im going over to someones house tomorrow already to take a look at it, and then the dealer on monday, but thanks for the offer! we will have to cruise together one of these days
 
It may not be the cause of everything, but getting that fixed is definitely your first step... Solve the known problem first, then see where your chips fall after that.
 
yes that can cause similar symptoms

but check your egr tube, especially where it mates to the exhaust manifold...I had this EXACT same issue and it turns out the egr tube wasn't properly tightened down on the exhaust manifold...tightened that up and she purred like a kitten
 
hmm ill check that but the egr pipe is brand new...ill check to see if its tightened down all the way or cross threaded or what have you
 
Tube wouldnt cause a Code for the CPS though.

Without the CPS..the car does not know what position it is in in the igntion cycle which can lead to a slew of problems.

ITs easy to remove...got any local buddies with a pro that you guys can swap out sensors for a bit and see if it solves the problem?

I have one I could sell you if you want..I know it was good when I removed it.
LMK
 
there ya go...Its like one plug and one bolt I think...Easy.
 
Tube wouldnt cause a Code for the CPS though.

Without the CPS..the car does not know what position it is in in the igntion cycle which can lead to a slew of problems.

ITs easy to remove...got any local buddies with a pro that you guys can swap out sensors for a bit and see if it solves the problem?

I have one I could sell you if you want..I know it was good when I removed it.
LMK

oh I know, I'm not saying it will throw that code lol

I'm saying that if replacing the cam position sensor doesn't fix the problem entirely and there is a boost leak, check that tube...its easy to check and free to repair
 
haha thanks! so ahhh wagon backer what u doing tomorrow? lol ill pm you. Thanks so much guys for the lightning fast responses and no b.s answers, really thanks
 
OMG! so its not the cps. Thanks to wagonbacker, we just swapped out cps's and his car ran just fine with mine and my car still ran like butt with his cps. So idk what the crap is going on....bad tune? But why on earth would the vac be at "6" (i know i sad 8 before, but upon further inspection it actually rests at "6") at idle?! It has to be a vaccum leak....but pg looked everywhere+new vac lines....possible crack in IM? idk all i know is under load the car is fine, i kinda played around with a srt-4 yesterday and we were dang close (no street racing ;)) so idk whats wrong...its only idle and cruizing that the vac is whack...it also smells like gas. The tune may need a lil work but, come to think of it i have one theory..

We played with the throttle spring, and the idle screw ;) i know bad but we had to. So my theory is that the idle is set too low...and the s.s/ecu is reading this and giving itself gas to put the rpms up higher. And obviously if the car is giving itself gas the vac would go up. Because like i said before the car sometimes after letting off the gas, still goes for quite a bit before the a.f ratios go down and the car slows...its like its on cruise for a while. Most of the time though its just really jerky. My car needs some serious gurus and serious attention...once i get my winter driver back from the shop i think i may just drop of the p5 at pg and let them work on it for as long as they need to lol. Anyone got any suggestions seeing as everyone was saing cps and now that can be ruled out?

(bang)(bang)(bang)gawd this car pisses me off when its not working right....which curiously seems to happen more often the more i put on it......
 
I could be smoking crakk but here is another idea....Smells like gas? Ok under load? Rough as hell idle with random misfire code? I had this issue and it was some bad injector o-rings. It took forever to figure out. Could cause a vacum leak and or allow too much fuel into the cylinder depending on which seal right? You did mess with those with your mani install.

Edit: The only thing that brought me onto it was the raise in idle I got when I was vacum leak hunting. (In the dirt style with starter spray sprayed around the intake and other various connections. Yes its stupid and probably not safe but it works. We have a local level one burn center lol) I thought it was the intake gasket but it was those injector seals. Ran smooth after I replaced those and eliminated the exhaust gas smell especialy on startup.
 
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I'm suspecting the SSAFC isn't getting along with the single runner intake... I would also check that vacuum line going to the SSAFC, I think its getting pinched off.. That would explain it not revving down when you let off, the AFC still thinks you're getting boost. Does your AFR spike rich while this is happening?

Other than that, I would SERIOUSLY look into cleaning up your engine bay. if you're not using your cruise, strip it out, and reduce the mess and possible vacuum leaks back there... save some weight while you're at it!
 

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