to all colder climate msp owners..

there was a TSB for the MSP about the hesitation... take into a mazdaspeed dealership and they will fix it by "flashing" the computer. All it really does is advance the timing. Theories dictate that it is "better" to not have it flashed if you're adding a piggyback (ala SS AFC).
 
there was a TSB for the MSP about the hesitation... take into a mazdaspeed dealership and they will fix it by "flashing" the computer. All it really does is advance the timing. Theories dictate that it is "better" to not have it flashed if you're adding a piggyback (ala SS AFC).

hm... but hm... hm... (haha) at 4000 RPM my motor "jumps" how is that a hesitation? lol

Im surfing around ShopKey5 right now and the TBS reads

"DESCRIPTION

Some customers may experience one or more of the following conditions:

-Whistle Noise from the engine compartment at idle.
-Engine speed is limited by fuel cut condition under high boost conditions
-Check engine light on with P0171 - Fuel Trip system Too Lean stored in memory.

The above mentioned conditions may be the result of a raptured waste gate actuator diaphragm. to determine of this is the cause follow the repair procedure as described below."


but i have the P0171 code, the shop i took it to said that it was the P0171 code. and it does seam like a fuel cut, i usually have the "pedal to the metal" so to say, when this happens, at at 4000 RPM's it might have a good boost pressure. and it tells you to replace your WGA.

(they (shopkey5) gived the job a 1 hour time limit to finish haha.)


If you want to check out shopkey5 i can send you a username and pass ;) i got something useful out of Auto Tech haha.
 
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hm... but hm... hm... (haha) at 4000 RPM my motor "jumps" how is that a hesitation? lol

Im surfing around ShopKey5 right now and the TBS reads

"DESCRIPTION

Some customers may experience one or more of the following conditions:

-Whistle Noise from the engine compartment at idle.
-Engine speed is limited by fuel cut condition under high boost conditions
-Check engine light on with P0171 - Fuel Trip system Too Lean stored in memory.

The above mentioned conditions may be the result of a raptured waste gate actuator diaphragm. to determine of this is the cause follow the repair procedure as described below."


but i have the P0171 code, the shop i took it to said that it was the P0171 code. and it does seam like a fuel cut, i usually have the "pedal to the metal" so to say, when this happens, at at 4000 RPM's it might have a good boost pressure. and it tells you to replace your WGA.

(they (shopkey5) gived the job a 1 hour time limit to finish haha.)


If you want to check out shopkey5 i can send you a username and pass ;) i got something useful out of Auto Tech haha.

lol, before I had mine flashed, at about 4k rpm's my car would "stutter". It almost felt like I was taking my foot off the gas and then slamming it on the gas and taking it off again like five times in a second. Now, on the other hand, when I hit fuel cut... it literally felt like hitting a brick wall. Anyone not wearing their seatbelt was definately hurting during fuel cut. I also always waited for a big boom during fuel cut. Funny enough, when the engine actually blew, it wasn't nearly as big and bad as I had imagined all those times before.

As far as that code goes, it seems to me that it could be from many things. Do you have a boost gauge in cabin? See if it drops during one of your "events".
 
lol, before I had mine flashed, at about 4k rpm's my car would "stutter". It almost felt like I was taking my foot off the gas and then slamming it on the gas and taking it off again like five times in a second. Now, on the other hand, when I hit fuel cut... it literally felt like hitting a brick wall. Anyone not wearing their seatbelt was definately hurting during fuel cut. I also always waited for a big boom during fuel cut. Funny enough, when the engine actually blew, it wasn't nearly as big and bad as I had imagined all those times before.

As far as that code goes, it seems to me that it could be from many things. Do you have a boost gauge in cabin? See if it drops during one of your "events".

i dont have a boost gauge yet, im going to get the carbon fiber one from DG and get a boost gauge, the only prob. though is installing it, i dont have that much exp. installing electronics, mainly a boost gauge, i dont even know how it works haha.
 
installing a boost gauge is super easy. there is a how to on here also. basically you just tie it into your vac lines and one power and a ground. the power is right there under the dash. and the ground I used is under the door sill. the only pain in the ass is going through the fire wall. but there is also a spot for that if you get under the steering wheel and look around for some black siliconehttp://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50210. how to page
 
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no worries, most boost gauges are mechanical. basically, you have a rubber tube and the actual guage (and maybe two wires for lighting). I'm sure there are How To's on this. but none-the-less, you basically "T" a vac line from the intake manifold so you can connect the rubber tube (it, in itself is a vac line). The other end you hook up to the gauge. Turn on the car and that's it.

edit: be sure to connect it (the gauge vac line) to a vac line coming directly off the intake manifold.
 
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I have the solution for every one with this problem...I just took my car into a mazda dealership. after about s visits the service manager and i found the solution. There is a speacial kit from mazda that fixes this. It contains parts for the waste gate. i have had no more problems. i will let you guys know what the part number is for this kit. Thank god my car feels like a new car again. if anyone has questions please let me know.
 
you are correct about the fuel cut off being an ecu thing. but you have to understand that the fix for this is the wastegate kit from Mazda. i don't get the fuel cut anymore. this is what the engineers at mazda canada have come up with.
 
is it an upgraded spring? Have you noticed an increase in boost (or decrease for that matter)? Please post (or PM me) this info. thank you.
 
alright peajay i had the same issue with this cold weather bull s*** and im in utah where its not warmer then 30 most the time and i was coming out of a canyon where the temp was 5 degrees and mine did all that bull s*** jerking and fuel cut. nothing was wrong with vacuum lines or no leaks and no check engine.

i went to the local auto parts store and got some HEET, in the yellow bottle and put that in with half a tank. that didnt work so i went back and bought GumOut fuel system cleaner, its like 9 bucks, put that in with the gas tank and empty then filled it full. it worked!

try it! its better then spending money on some technichian or EMS and s*** like that and my car is back to normal even with freezing temps!
 
here is the part number you can order from any mazda deapler ship and this will clear up all the problems properly!!! you won't have to add any liquids every you fill up!
mazda part number: MZ0000-88-C96A
 
ice speed,

I have noticed that the car actually responds like a new car... not sure what the psi is. i'm kind of taken back by the power i feel now. not like it was before. also i don't have a boost gauge so i wouldn't know the psi.
 
here is the part number you can order from any mazda deapler ship and this will clear up all the problems properly!!! you won't have to add any liquids every you fill up!
mazda part number: MZ0000-88-C96A

My car is stock with the ecu reflash and I noticed this issue shortly after buying the car; 3/4 to wide open throttle from below 4000 rpm hits a hesitation just across 4000rpm.

I will be ordering this component and I will post my results.
 
Huge Boost Spike Today!

I'm in Minnesota and it's cold as hell, today is around 0 degrees and when I started out my ride this morning I got a 15 psi boost spike!!! That was in 4th gear and then I tested 3rd gear and got another 15psi spike. I took a little extra lap on the highway and the car started acting normal again spiking to 8-9 psi, my car has 94,000 miles and I drive it every day in all cold weather conditions and this is the first time this has happened. I don't recall it ever going above 10psi. So....

? should I be worried about something specific, or do you think that it was just a cold weather fluke?

mods: injen cai, corksport catless midpipe and exhaust. all else stock.

edit: after another drive again car runs just fine...
 
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I called my local mazda dealer which happens to be a mazdaspeed specific dealer and they couldn't come up with any part number even close to the one provided....They said MZ0000-88-C96A doesn't exist.
 
ok so i talked to the guys at mazda and this part can not be ordered as a regular part. the service manger has to call mazda technical and use this part. its not a regular part they just order from the parts dept. tell the service guy he needs to order it from mazda technical. The part is a good part number.
 
Another question abou the hiccup (fuel cut)....Does it go away in the spring and summer when temps go up. Or will it stay untill I replace the WGA??
 

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