Hi guys...
First of all, sorry for my bad english and spelling mistakes...(boom07)
Ok, although the belts may look fine, the time and mileage do their part.. the material weakens, micro cracks appear, and more importantly, both the belt idler and the belt tensioner bearings wear out, as well as the water pump bearings and it's shaft gaskets... so after 100 000 Km (60 000 miles) all above mentioned should be replaced... The water pump as well, coz, although not being powered by the timing belt on Proteges, it is prone to failure (bearing failures and/or leaks), but to replace it, the entire timing belt system has to be removed first to gain access to the pump... so that sucks!
I have just changed mine, and, well, you do not need any special tools except you might encounter a problem of not being able do undo the crankshaft pulley bolt, which is difficult to do if you do not have the SST (special service tool). (air tools will not work on this bolt, trust me
).
However, by having some average toolbox items, it is quite easy to do it without the SST.
well, I do not have any of my own project pictures, but I will paste some from the net.
So, here it goes:
1. Jack up your front passenger-side wheel and remove it.
2. Remove the splash cover behind the wheel, exposing the crankshaft pulley.
3. Remove the splash guard from below the front of the car, exposing the bottom of the radiator.
4. Unhook the camshaft position sensor, spark plug wires and spark plugs, and remove the valve cover.
This is where you are so far:
5. To remove the two serpentine belts, undo the bolts holding the PS pump, and do the same with the alternator, (it could be tricky to access the alternator form above, so try from underneath the car). Each of them has three bolts: Swivel bolt, jack bolt, and a locking bolt. First, just untighten the swivel bolt, then the locking bolt, and then undo the jack bolt to release the tension on belt.
Here's an example on a P/s pump, and the same principle is on an alternator...
RED COLOR: swivel bolt
GREEN COLOR: Jack bolt
BLUE COLOR: locking bolt
Here's the much better picture and more detailed explanation on this matter ( courtesy of Brcobrem )
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com...1HErlk4HI8IUTvw/power_steering_pump_bolts.jpg
The red insert shows the power steering unit's swivel bolt that you see on top of the engine (this gets loosened first, and tightened last). The blue circle shows the lock bolt loosened but not falling out (this get loosened 2nd and tightened this after tensioning with the jack bolt). The green circle at the top of the pic shows the rear of the jack bolt. The green circle in the green insert shows the front of the jack bolt (this gets loosened thirdly and tightened appropriately for belt tensioning before tightening the lock bolt).
6. Loosen the mentioned above, and remove the two serpentine belts (P/S-A/C-C/S) and (Alternator-C/S-W/P).
7. Now comes the tricky part: Undoing the crankshaft bolt...
Now, if you try to undo it, (I believe 21 mm socket and wrench), you will find that the engine will turn as you try to turn your wrench, so you will need to find a way to block the pulley and stop it from spinning.
There are two threaded holes on the crankshaft pulley (C/S) with M8 (8 mm ) threads... What you need to do is to take two bolts you had lying around your garage or in your tool box (or buy them at your local hardware store), thread them all the way into the pulley, find a peace of metal pipe, a block of wood, a wooden board, a two-by-two, or something, wedge it somehow (I leave it to your own creativity and nventivity) between the bolts and the suspension arm or a floor or somewhere on the chassis, so the pulley won't turn. And with the help of some elbow grease, undo the bolt.
Now a little trick. The crankshaft bolt has to be tightened back to approx. 160 Nm of torque. It could be done by using a big old nasty torque wrench, but, I use a little trick: Before I undo the bolt, I use a magic marker to mark the position of the bolt (on bolt and pulley), so when I put it back on, I tighten it until the marks are aligned, ergo no need for a torque wrench...
8. Undo the bolts holding the plastic timing cover, and remove the cower. It has two pieces and the plastic is very brittle, so PLEASE DO BE CAREFUL. Upper one can be removed, while lower one has to wait for the crankshaft pulley to be removed first (see nr. 11)
Now, you have your timing belt exposed, and you se your cam shaft pulleys and all.
9. In order to remove the belt, you need to take of the engine mount, so first take another jack, put it below the engine oil pan, take a block of wood and put it between the oil pan and the jack, and lift the jack just enough until it BARELY starts to lift the engine! (a couple of millimeters, or 1/8th of an inch). The jack will support the engine when you remove the mount.
10. Unbolt the mount and remove it.
Here's where you are so far:
11. Remove the crankshaft pulley (DO NOT use a puller, coz it will damage the pulley, rather wiggle it out by hand and be patient), and be careful not to lose the position pin.
After the pulley has been removed, you will see the timing pulley behind, with a NOTCH on it (V shaped), that indicates the position.
Now, the notch on the CRANK SHAFT has to FACE UPWARDS, (aligned to a mark on the engine block) while the two notches (lines actually) on the CAMSHAFT pulleys (gears) have to be horizontal, inwards, next to each other. (as it can bee seen on the picture below)
12. Put the crankshaft bolt back into the crankshaft, tighten it BY HAND so you can use a ratchet to turn the engine, and using a wrench slowly turn the crankshaft clockwise until you get the marks aligned (as they should be), so it will be a lot easier once you take the old belt off, to realign the system for the new belt...
13. There is a spring holding the belt tensioner in place. Unhook it, (be careful not to lose it, and remember how it goes back on), and unbolt and remove the tensioner.
14. Unbolt and remove the idler.
15. Remove the belt.
(now, you are a half way through)!
16. Go underneath the radiator, and you will see the coolant drain plug. Drain the coolant. (I guess you know how to do it...)
17. Unbolt the four water pump pulley bolts and remove the pulley.
18. Unbolt the water pump bolts (5 of them), and remove the pump! (some remaining coolant will leak, that is no prob.)
(Sometimes, the pump gasket will hold the pump stuck to the engine block, so tap it with a soft-tip mallet a bit or gently pry it loose, if it is stuck on...)
19. Clean the sealing surfaces, and put the new pump on. Use a torque wrench to tighten the pump bolts (approx 20 Nm of torque)
20. Put the new idler roller on, and tighten it.
21. Put the new tensioner and tighten it. (do not put the tension spring on yet!!!) This type of tensioners used on 1.8 and 2.0 proteges operates by a spring tension and auto-adjustment feature, meaning that even if it is tightened all the way, it will still swivel back and forth, as the spring pushes on it against the belt...
22. Check, recheck and again RECHECK the align marks on the crankshaft and camshafts, and put the new belt on. It will be a bit of a struggle to get it on right, but be persistent. (rotation direction is often marked on the belt, if not, then the direction is the same as the reading direction of the words printed on the belt).
How to put a belt on:
Start by putting it on the crankshaft pulley, then, go over the idler and put it on the exhaust camshaft, then onto intake camshaft, and while opening the tensioner (no spring on it yet), slide it under.
After the belt is on, again check, re check and RE CHECK the marks, and if all ok:
23. Put the tension spring back on.
24. Do 4 turns of the crankshaft with your hands using a hand wrench, and recheck if everything spins ok. Check the belt, markings, belt sideways movement, slack...
25. Now, start putting everything back in reverse order.
26. as you finish the assembly, putting the mount back on, don't forget you still have the jack underneath the engine!!!
27. Replace the new serpentine belts, and tighten them. the general "rule-of-thumb" when tightening serpentine belts (using a jack bolt) is that it is tightened just right when on the middle of the longest belt-straight, you can twist the belt approx. 90 degrees with your fingers.
Do not over tighten the belts, coz you will ruin the bearings!!!
28. Refill the coolant and bleed the system... (I guess you know how it's done).
again, recheck everything and start the engine up.
Let it idle for 10 minutes or so, and then, recheck everything. Wait for the engine to warm up and start the cooling vent.
Check for leaks around the water pump.
And, that's it!!!
And of course, this is just a how-to help, I can not take any liability in any damage caused by this text.
Cheers!
First of all, sorry for my bad english and spelling mistakes...(boom07)
Ok, although the belts may look fine, the time and mileage do their part.. the material weakens, micro cracks appear, and more importantly, both the belt idler and the belt tensioner bearings wear out, as well as the water pump bearings and it's shaft gaskets... so after 100 000 Km (60 000 miles) all above mentioned should be replaced... The water pump as well, coz, although not being powered by the timing belt on Proteges, it is prone to failure (bearing failures and/or leaks), but to replace it, the entire timing belt system has to be removed first to gain access to the pump... so that sucks!
I have just changed mine, and, well, you do not need any special tools except you might encounter a problem of not being able do undo the crankshaft pulley bolt, which is difficult to do if you do not have the SST (special service tool). (air tools will not work on this bolt, trust me
). However, by having some average toolbox items, it is quite easy to do it without the SST.
well, I do not have any of my own project pictures, but I will paste some from the net.
So, here it goes:
1. Jack up your front passenger-side wheel and remove it.
2. Remove the splash cover behind the wheel, exposing the crankshaft pulley.
3. Remove the splash guard from below the front of the car, exposing the bottom of the radiator.
4. Unhook the camshaft position sensor, spark plug wires and spark plugs, and remove the valve cover.
This is where you are so far:
5. To remove the two serpentine belts, undo the bolts holding the PS pump, and do the same with the alternator, (it could be tricky to access the alternator form above, so try from underneath the car). Each of them has three bolts: Swivel bolt, jack bolt, and a locking bolt. First, just untighten the swivel bolt, then the locking bolt, and then undo the jack bolt to release the tension on belt.
Here's an example on a P/s pump, and the same principle is on an alternator...
RED COLOR: swivel bolt
GREEN COLOR: Jack bolt
BLUE COLOR: locking bolt
Here's the much better picture and more detailed explanation on this matter ( courtesy of Brcobrem )
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com...1HErlk4HI8IUTvw/power_steering_pump_bolts.jpg
The red insert shows the power steering unit's swivel bolt that you see on top of the engine (this gets loosened first, and tightened last). The blue circle shows the lock bolt loosened but not falling out (this get loosened 2nd and tightened this after tensioning with the jack bolt). The green circle at the top of the pic shows the rear of the jack bolt. The green circle in the green insert shows the front of the jack bolt (this gets loosened thirdly and tightened appropriately for belt tensioning before tightening the lock bolt).
6. Loosen the mentioned above, and remove the two serpentine belts (P/S-A/C-C/S) and (Alternator-C/S-W/P).
7. Now comes the tricky part: Undoing the crankshaft bolt...
Now, if you try to undo it, (I believe 21 mm socket and wrench), you will find that the engine will turn as you try to turn your wrench, so you will need to find a way to block the pulley and stop it from spinning.
There are two threaded holes on the crankshaft pulley (C/S) with M8 (8 mm ) threads... What you need to do is to take two bolts you had lying around your garage or in your tool box (or buy them at your local hardware store), thread them all the way into the pulley, find a peace of metal pipe, a block of wood, a wooden board, a two-by-two, or something, wedge it somehow (I leave it to your own creativity and nventivity) between the bolts and the suspension arm or a floor or somewhere on the chassis, so the pulley won't turn. And with the help of some elbow grease, undo the bolt.
Now a little trick. The crankshaft bolt has to be tightened back to approx. 160 Nm of torque. It could be done by using a big old nasty torque wrench, but, I use a little trick: Before I undo the bolt, I use a magic marker to mark the position of the bolt (on bolt and pulley), so when I put it back on, I tighten it until the marks are aligned, ergo no need for a torque wrench...
8. Undo the bolts holding the plastic timing cover, and remove the cower. It has two pieces and the plastic is very brittle, so PLEASE DO BE CAREFUL. Upper one can be removed, while lower one has to wait for the crankshaft pulley to be removed first (see nr. 11)
Now, you have your timing belt exposed, and you se your cam shaft pulleys and all.
9. In order to remove the belt, you need to take of the engine mount, so first take another jack, put it below the engine oil pan, take a block of wood and put it between the oil pan and the jack, and lift the jack just enough until it BARELY starts to lift the engine! (a couple of millimeters, or 1/8th of an inch). The jack will support the engine when you remove the mount.
10. Unbolt the mount and remove it.
Here's where you are so far:
11. Remove the crankshaft pulley (DO NOT use a puller, coz it will damage the pulley, rather wiggle it out by hand and be patient), and be careful not to lose the position pin.
After the pulley has been removed, you will see the timing pulley behind, with a NOTCH on it (V shaped), that indicates the position.
Now, the notch on the CRANK SHAFT has to FACE UPWARDS, (aligned to a mark on the engine block) while the two notches (lines actually) on the CAMSHAFT pulleys (gears) have to be horizontal, inwards, next to each other. (as it can bee seen on the picture below)
12. Put the crankshaft bolt back into the crankshaft, tighten it BY HAND so you can use a ratchet to turn the engine, and using a wrench slowly turn the crankshaft clockwise until you get the marks aligned (as they should be), so it will be a lot easier once you take the old belt off, to realign the system for the new belt...
13. There is a spring holding the belt tensioner in place. Unhook it, (be careful not to lose it, and remember how it goes back on), and unbolt and remove the tensioner.
14. Unbolt and remove the idler.
15. Remove the belt.
(now, you are a half way through)!
16. Go underneath the radiator, and you will see the coolant drain plug. Drain the coolant. (I guess you know how to do it...)
17. Unbolt the four water pump pulley bolts and remove the pulley.
18. Unbolt the water pump bolts (5 of them), and remove the pump! (some remaining coolant will leak, that is no prob.)
(Sometimes, the pump gasket will hold the pump stuck to the engine block, so tap it with a soft-tip mallet a bit or gently pry it loose, if it is stuck on...)
19. Clean the sealing surfaces, and put the new pump on. Use a torque wrench to tighten the pump bolts (approx 20 Nm of torque)
20. Put the new idler roller on, and tighten it.
21. Put the new tensioner and tighten it. (do not put the tension spring on yet!!!) This type of tensioners used on 1.8 and 2.0 proteges operates by a spring tension and auto-adjustment feature, meaning that even if it is tightened all the way, it will still swivel back and forth, as the spring pushes on it against the belt...
22. Check, recheck and again RECHECK the align marks on the crankshaft and camshafts, and put the new belt on. It will be a bit of a struggle to get it on right, but be persistent. (rotation direction is often marked on the belt, if not, then the direction is the same as the reading direction of the words printed on the belt).
How to put a belt on:
Start by putting it on the crankshaft pulley, then, go over the idler and put it on the exhaust camshaft, then onto intake camshaft, and while opening the tensioner (no spring on it yet), slide it under.
After the belt is on, again check, re check and RE CHECK the marks, and if all ok:
23. Put the tension spring back on.
24. Do 4 turns of the crankshaft with your hands using a hand wrench, and recheck if everything spins ok. Check the belt, markings, belt sideways movement, slack...
25. Now, start putting everything back in reverse order.
26. as you finish the assembly, putting the mount back on, don't forget you still have the jack underneath the engine!!!
27. Replace the new serpentine belts, and tighten them. the general "rule-of-thumb" when tightening serpentine belts (using a jack bolt) is that it is tightened just right when on the middle of the longest belt-straight, you can twist the belt approx. 90 degrees with your fingers.
Do not over tighten the belts, coz you will ruin the bearings!!!
28. Refill the coolant and bleed the system... (I guess you know how it's done).
again, recheck everything and start the engine up.
Let it idle for 10 minutes or so, and then, recheck everything. Wait for the engine to warm up and start the cooling vent.
Check for leaks around the water pump.
And, that's it!!!
And of course, this is just a how-to help, I can not take any liability in any damage caused by this text.
Cheers!
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