Hey guys
as many of you know i was the test fit for the thunder header, it fit great and i had no issues at all with teh fitment. i did get a cel a bit after install and after trying to add on non foulers (as the header has an extension tube built off the midpipe for a factory buit O2 cel fix like the p5s version) to no avial. i thought i had damaged my sensor and after even trying the resistor and capicitor wiring fix to i finaly sucked it up and bought a scan tool (tekmate) to see what was goin on
it gave me the errors heater circuit not responding, and sensor not responding (2 codes)
i ordered a new sensor from montgomery mazda (forum sponser (first)) and changed it out today. drove it to work with no issues and it actually seemed a bit more responsive to the butt dyno but i take that with a grain of salt... on the way home the cel came back on again :bs: i am now in my car on my laptop and just pulled the codes to see...
i am now getting heater circuit slow response code P0139 and no activity detected P0140 these are different codes then last time so yes i did have a bad sensor before (thank god i didn't waste my $$)
so now my thinking is becuase of the long tube the sensor isn't seeing enough heat at all or quick enough and is cuaseing my issue and since the draxas guys are running with just a bung and the non foulers my idea is to just cut that damn elbow off and have a shop weld the bung an inch or so away from the exhuast flow...
sorry for the long post but i figured some back ground was in order is this a good idea as its the only thing i can think of.
thanks
Derek
as many of you know i was the test fit for the thunder header, it fit great and i had no issues at all with teh fitment. i did get a cel a bit after install and after trying to add on non foulers (as the header has an extension tube built off the midpipe for a factory buit O2 cel fix like the p5s version) to no avial. i thought i had damaged my sensor and after even trying the resistor and capicitor wiring fix to i finaly sucked it up and bought a scan tool (tekmate) to see what was goin on
it gave me the errors heater circuit not responding, and sensor not responding (2 codes)
i ordered a new sensor from montgomery mazda (forum sponser (first)) and changed it out today. drove it to work with no issues and it actually seemed a bit more responsive to the butt dyno but i take that with a grain of salt... on the way home the cel came back on again :bs: i am now in my car on my laptop and just pulled the codes to see...
i am now getting heater circuit slow response code P0139 and no activity detected P0140 these are different codes then last time so yes i did have a bad sensor before (thank god i didn't waste my $$)
so now my thinking is becuase of the long tube the sensor isn't seeing enough heat at all or quick enough and is cuaseing my issue and since the draxas guys are running with just a bung and the non foulers my idea is to just cut that damn elbow off and have a shop weld the bung an inch or so away from the exhuast flow...
sorry for the long post but i figured some back ground was in order is this a good idea as its the only thing i can think of.
thanks
Derek
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