Guide: Thule Fixed Point Fit Guide for 2017 CX-5 (Unofficial)

[clads01]

I spent a lot of time researching this, and although I've posted the information in various threads, I thought I'd compile it all here for those interested in it as a roof rack option.

As of the date of this post, Thule does not have an official solution for fixed point mounting on the 2017 CX-5. However, based upon lots of internet searches and information posted by a Japanese 2017 CX-5 owner, I was able to identify the parts to make it work. Where info was available, I included the UK part numbers in brackets. AUS part numbers just have a '000' appended, as far as I can tell. I believe the different part numbers are just for Thule to market separately to different regions.

PREREQUISITE: Roof molding strips with the cutouts to access the threaded holes, Mazda part numbers

KBYA-50-9H0A (right side)
KBYA-50-9L0A (left side)

See this thread for more info.

THULE PARTS REQUIRED:

Option 1: AeroBlade crossbars
(2X) AeroBlade ARB47 [961]
Rapid Podium Foot Pack 460R [753]
Fit Kit 3069

Option 2: Square bars (non-slotted)
(2X) 50" square bars LB50
Podium Foot Pack 460
Fit Kit 3069

Option 3: Slotted square bars
(2X) 47"/120cm slotted square bars 853-2341-07 [761]
Rapid Podium Foot Pack 460R [753]
Fit Kit 3069

Note that the minimum crossbar length (width?) is 47", but you can go for longer bars if you wish. In the case of Option 2, above, I don't believe there is a 47" version of the standard square bars (at least in the US), which is why I specified the LB50s. I wouldn't recommend using the AeroBlade Edge crossbars as I don't believe they are high enough to clear the shark fin antenna.

I went for Option 3 since I am heavily invested in square-bar Thule attachments, but wanted the 460R feet in case I decide to move to the AeroBlade bars at a later time. I was able to pick up all three Thule parts from a European seller on ebay for less than $200 shipped. Add ~$65 for the roof moldings and it was pretty economical compared to the (US) OEM option. Not to mention the fact that I prefer to have no roof rails (and crossbars) when I don't need to carry gear, which is most of the time.

Here's a pic of my setup:

Pic of Option 1 from Japanese CX-5 owner:

EDIT: See this thread for info on Thule parts to use with the Mazda OEM roof rails. Thule also offers a roof rack solution that uses the feet that clamp on the roof and door opening, but I find that solution much less desirable.

 

[bigtex]

How long does it take to get your setup on/off? Thanks for the write-up.

 

[clads01]

How long does it take to get your setup on/off? Thanks for the write-up.

On procedure is:
(1) Pop off anchor point covers on roof moldings;
(2) Screw threaded rods into anchor points;
(3) Place bar/feet/fit-kit assemblies over threaded rods (after removing locking covers);
(4) Secure assemblies onto roof with bolts/washers on threaded rods;
(5) Replace locking covers and lock to prevent theft.

Off procedure is reverse.

Didn't time myself, but I'd estimate ~10-15 minutes for install or uninstall?

Note that the first time you install, it takes much longer because you have to assemble each of the Thule parts together and make sure the feet are set at the appropriate width on the bars. However, after that, all the Thule parts stay together as an assembly, so you just pop them on and off the roof.

See this Thule PDF for details on the fit kit.

 

[Aad2]

I spent a lot of time researching this, and although I've posted the information in various threads, I thought I'd compile it all here for those interested in it as a roof rack option.

As of the date of this post, Thule does not have an official solution for fixed point mounting on the 2017 CX-5. However, based upon lots of internet searches and information posted by a Japanese 2017 CX-5 owner, I was able to identify the parts to make it work. Where info was available, I included the UK part numbers in brackets. AUS part numbers just have a '000' appended, as far as I can tell. I believe the different part numbers are just for Thule to market separately to different regions.

PREREQUISITE: Roof molding strips with the cutouts to access the threaded holes, Mazda part numbers

KBYA-50-9H0A (right side)
KBYA-50-9L0A (left side)

See this thread for more info.

THULE PARTS REQUIRED:

Option 1: AeroBlade crossbars
(2X) AeroBlade ARB47 [961]
Rapid Podium Foot Pack 460R [753]
Fit Kit 3069

Option 2: Square bars (non-slotted)
(2X) 50" square bars LB50
Podium Foot Pack 460
Fit Kit 3069

Option 3: Slotted square bars
(2X) 47"/120cm slotted square bars 853-2341-07 [761]
Rapid Podium Foot Pack 460R [753]
Fit Kit 3069

Note that the minimum crossbar length (width?) is 47", but you can go for longer bars if you wish. In the case of Option 2, above, I don't believe there is a 47" version of the standard square bars (at least in the US), which is why I specified the LB50s. I wouldn't recommend using the AeroBlade Edge crossbars as I don't believe they are high enough to clear the shark fin antenna.

I went for Option 3 since I am heavily invested in square-bar Thule attachments, but wanted the 460R feet in case I decide to move to the AeroBlade bars at a later time. I was able to pick up all three Thule parts from a European seller on ebay for less than $200 shipped. Add ~$65 for the roof moldings and it was pretty economical compared to the (US) OEM option. Not to mention the fact that I prefer to have no roof rails (and crossbars) when I don't need to carry gear, which is most of the time.

Here's a pic of my setup:

Pic of Option 1 from Japanese CX-5 owner:

EDIT: See this thread for info on Thule parts to use with the Mazda OEM roof rails. Thule also offers a roof rack solution that uses the feet that clamp on the roof and door opening, but I find that solution much less desirable.

Awesome info, I've been debating whether I should go with the roof rails or not, but I think this seals the deal for me. Pardon my ignorance, but have you seen any evidence of water/ice/snow getting down under the removable cover when the rack is not in use? Do the Thule feet have rubber or something on the bottom so water doesn't get in?

 

[clads01]

Awesome info, I've been debating whether I should go with the roof rails or not, but I think this seals the deal for me. Pardon my ignorance, but have you seen any evidence of water/ice/snow getting down under the removable cover when the rack is not in use? Do the Thule feet have rubber or something on the bottom so water doesn't get in?

The Thule fit kit parts (the parts that touch the roof) are made of rubber and form a pretty good seal. Without the rack on, the plastic covers for the roof molding cutouts seal pretty well also (see the other thread about the roof moldings for pictures). But all of this is moot because water can easily get under the roof moldings anyway, as the molding themselves do not seal the roof channels very well. Bottom line: I wouldn't worry about any water/ice/snow issues.

 

[Aad2]

Thanks!

 

[XYR03]

Any noise issues with the AEROblades? I had whistling when I had them on my MZ3, I'm a bit scared to thrown them on the CX5.

 

[clads01]

First time putting the cargo box on my load bar setup last week. It's an older Thule Ascent 1100. Mounted it as far forward as it would go, and the rear liftgate would only open about halfway. Definitely not ideal and knocked my head against the liftgate a couple of times loading/unloading gear, but not enough of a hassle to warrant buying a new cargo box or exploring alternative load bar options that might allow the bars to be moved forward/backwards. Luckily, the shark fin antenna fit right into a groove underneath the cargo box.

EDIT: The liftgate did open enough so that it could be set to stop right before hitting the cargo box. A nice feature to have.

 

[smithers166]

Hello all, I just listed all this in the classifieds section. I had this setup on my 6 and it worked fantastic. When I traded in for my new cx5 it came with the roof rails so I just opted for the stock cross bar setup. I have the 47 in aeroblade, 3069 fit kit and the 460 podium feet. I also have a thule bike rack that I won't be using anymore since I have a hitch mounted option now.

Pm me if anyone is interested.
Chris

 

[toni.bujas]

What is maximum load limit for this rack? Mazda OEM rack has load limit 45 kg. Also CX5 specs list roof load limit of 50 kg.
I’m looking for roof rack that can take at least 75 kg (all my ski gear).

 

[alphadog00]

What is maximum load limit for this rack? Mazda OEM rack has load limit 45 kg. Also CX5 specs list roof load limit of 50 kg.
I’m looking for roof rack that can take at least 75 kg (all my ski gear).

The roof will always be the limit regardless of the rack

https://support.thule.com/hc/en-us/...t-is-the-load-capacity-of-my-Thule-roof-rack-

https://www.etrailer.com/question-201864.html

 

[smithers166]

Mine is still available. I'm asking half the price of new.

 

[skidrofuzzy]

Bear with me on my first post, I created an account just to comment on and ask a few questions about this subject... I just finished installing a setup similar to Option 1 except I have the factory roof rails so I used Thule fit kit 3160 instead. The setup works great to support 2 kayaks (up to 165 lbs) but I really wanted crossbars that were easily removable so (1) my wife can go through the automatic carwash and not worry about damage, and (2) so we don't have to worry about the setup getting stolen (unlikely if you have the Thule key locks, but still a possibility if someone has the correct size tamper resistant Torx bit that is used to fasten the podiums to the roof rails). Removing the crossbars takes me roughly 30 minutes with that darn Torx key and I don't really see how a ratcheting tool can be used without a high risk of scratching up the roof - there really isn't a lot of room to work between the rail screw hole location and the roof. Putting the bars back on takes me about the same amount of time - which is way too much time to do this frequently.

From what I recall, there are 6 screw fastening points to mount each rail to the roof (3 "plates", each with 2 weld nuts) and given the overall stiffness of the rail, it seems that it does a better job of spreading out the overall weight of whatever you're carrying. Am I correct in understanding that fit kit 3069 only uses 2 out of the 6 fastening locations on each side of the vehicle? Does this reduce the max load capacity since it's not more spread out over the entire length of the rail? And with this kit, do the posts that the podiums mount to fasten with a simple hex nut? Is it in a convenient location that's easier to access than the inside of the rail?

Also, is the automatic carwash a genuine concern for others with crossbars installed?

Thanks!

 

[shadonoz]

Also, is the automatic carwash a genuine concern for others with crossbars installed?

It never was for many years, many cars, many washes for me.

 

[clads01]

Bear with me on my first post, I created an account just to comment on and ask a few questions about this subject... I just finished installing a setup similar to Option 1 except I have the factory roof rails so I used Thule fit kit 3160 instead. The setup works great to support 2 kayaks (up to 165 lbs) but I really wanted crossbars that were easily removable so (1) my wife can go through the automatic carwash and not worry about damage, and (2) so we don't have to worry about the setup getting stolen (unlikely if you have the Thule key locks, but still a possibility if someone has the correct size tamper resistant Torx bit that is used to fasten the podiums to the roof rails). Removing the crossbars takes me roughly 30 minutes with that darn Torx key and I don't really see how a ratcheting tool can be used without a high risk of scratching up the roof - there really isn't a lot of room to work between the rail screw hole location and the roof. Putting the bars back on takes me about the same amount of time - which is way too much time to do this frequently.

From what I recall, there are 6 screw fastening points to mount each rail to the roof (3 "plates", each with 2 weld nuts) and given the overall stiffness of the rail, it seems that it does a better job of spreading out the overall weight of whatever you're carrying. Am I correct in understanding that fit kit 3069 only uses 2 out of the 6 fastening locations on each side of the vehicle? Does this reduce the max load capacity since it's not more spread out over the entire length of the rail? And with this kit, do the posts that the podiums mount to fasten with a simple hex nut? Is it in a convenient location that's easier to access than the inside of the rail?

Also, is the automatic carwash a genuine concern for others with crossbars installed?

Thanks!

These instructions for the 3069 fit kit will give you more info on how its installed/fitted. Once you've installed once, you only need to do steps 3 and 4D through 7. These crossbars attach at two points on each side, so they use four of the six mounting nut points (the factory rails use three on each side IIRC).

 

[Glee217]

Bear with me on my first post, I created an account just to comment on and ask a few questions about this subject... I just finished installing a setup similar to Option 1 except I have the factory roof rails so I used Thule fit kit 3160 instead. The setup works great to support 2 kayaks (up to 165 lbs) but I really wanted crossbars that were easily removable so (1) my wife can go through the automatic carwash and not worry about damage, and (2) so we don't have to worry about the setup getting stolen (unlikely if you have the Thule key locks, but still a possibility if someone has the correct size tamper resistant Torx bit that is used to fasten the podiums to the roof rails). Removing the crossbars takes me roughly 30 minutes with that darn Torx key and I don't really see how a ratcheting tool can be used without a high risk of scratching up the roof - there really isn't a lot of room to work between the rail screw hole location and the roof. Putting the bars back on takes me about the same amount of time - which is way too much time to do this frequently.

From what I recall, there are 6 screw fastening points to mount each rail to the roof (3 "plates", each with 2 weld nuts) and given the overall stiffness of the rail, it seems that it does a better job of spreading out the overall weight of whatever you're carrying. Am I correct in understanding that fit kit 3069 only uses 2 out of the 6 fastening locations on each side of the vehicle? Does this reduce the max load capacity since it's not more spread out over the entire length of the rail? And with this kit, do the posts that the podiums mount to fasten with a simple hex nut? Is it in a convenient location that's easier to access than the inside of the rail?

Also, is the automatic carwash a genuine concern for others with crossbars installed?

Thanks!

@skidrofuzzy Hey there I am also curious if the 3160 fit kit can easily be loosened form the factory side rails if ANYONE also has the same Torx / Allen wrench (6 point star pattern)! This Torx / Allen wrench came with the fit kit and I assume all these fit kits comes with same Torx / Allen Wrench?