The Ohio Random Thread... aka We Should Probably Be Working

So.. it's not a captive nut? Unless i'm missing something, what's stopping you from just putting a wrench on the nut-end and getting this done?
 
It just spins and spins and spins. It won't back out or go in any farther for whatever reason.

Yes, the end of the bolt is spinning in the nut.
 
is there room put something on the backside of the bolt head to pull it out while tuning the bolt?
 
If it were my truck I'd just get rid of the awd system and go with a manual rwd setup with a transfer case. With something that huge and fat, awd is kind of pointless. It's not like it's about to have any kind of power any time soon where it couldn't hook up. Put some sticky tires on it and practice your launches, and there you go. If you've got the kind of power where you can't hook up, just do highway roll ons, 60-160. :D

AWD is never pointless when you're pushing a 400hp V8. (lol2)

My brother's is RWD though, and puts down around 350hp to the wheels with the mods he has. So yea, hooking up is a problem on street tires!
 
So I bought my 2010 MS3 w/ a test pipe and SRI on it. I have the stock parts....because I dont have a tune and to keep the warranty all good, I'm trying to get the test pipe off and the original cat pipe put back on. I was under the car today, there's like no way I can do it I just dont have the space on jacks. Can anyone recommend a shop that would do this for cheap in the columbus/dublin area?
 
sounds like a good reason for an install party, I have the jacks but not the space. Any muffler shop should be able to do it.
 
Yeh man, I'm thinking Mad Hatter or this other place that got awesome reviews on Google. It's a super nice test pipe, it has the hangers preinstalled on there from wherever it was manufactured from. I'm sure this dude paid out the @$$ for it, so I should be able to sell it and get my money back for the install pretty easily!
 
So I bought my 2010 MS3 w/ a test pipe and SRI on it. I have the stock parts....because I dont have a tune and to keep the warranty all good, I'm trying to get the test pipe off and the original cat pipe put back on. I was under the car today, there's like no way I can do it I just dont have the space on jacks. Can anyone recommend a shop that would do this for cheap in the columbus/dublin area?

I have done multiple Downpipe installs with just jackstands. I will be down in columbus for a few days monday-wednesday and could help you put it back on if you want. I can bring tools if needed as well.
 
So I bought my 2010 MS3 w/ a test pipe and SRI on it. I have the stock parts....because I dont have a tune and to keep the warranty all good, I'm trying to get the test pipe off and the original cat pipe put back on. I was under the car today, there's like no way I can do it I just dont have the space on jacks. Can anyone recommend a shop that would do this for cheap in the columbus/dublin area?

Did you just buy it at Byers Ford?
 
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Will, why don't you just cut that bolt and start over? I know if I posted every time I had a stuck bolt I would've been banned by now. Oh you guys and your fancy new cars. :D
 
No bought it from a private guy that lives off of Sawmill. Only 18.5k for a 2010 w/ 17k miles on it :-D Plus it has a few goodies already. ;)
 
BTW anyone else that wants to "help" me and etipp get my car unfucked in Columbus give me a PM. I'll get a case of bud's and boom. Perfect.
 
Will, why don't you just cut that bolt and start over? I know if I posted every time I had a stuck bolt I would've been banned by now. Oh you guys and your fancy new cars. :D

I tried prying the bolt out and it won't budge there is definitely something still holding it in there. I think I'll just go pick up a new blade for my sawsall and flip the switch to destruction mode :D
 
I tried prying the bolt out and it won't budge there is definitely something still holding it in there. I think I'll just go pick up a new blade for my sawsall and flip the switch to destruction mode :D

And cut what, exactly off? The head of the bolt? Then what? That bolt on the back is welded on right? What you may be better off doing is getting an angle grinder / dremmel, and cut the tack weld off of that bolt. If you cut the head off, you're basically screwing yourself IMO. If you cut that nut loose, you can push the head of the bolt back to being flush with the subframe mount so you can cut the NUT off the end that way. Buy a new bolt and a high grade nut (not home depot hardware) and use them like a regular nut & bolt. You'll probably want a locking washer as well to go under there.

Good luck.
 
Thanks for the advice. Your approach sounds much more effective. I was planning on cutting the bolt just to the left of the nut on the inside of where the lower control arm is attached:
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But I don't think I'm going to do that any more :)

I don't see the bushing in the Mazda parts catalog, am I missing something obvious?
 
BTW anyone else that wants to "help" me and etipp get my car unfucked in Columbus give me a PM. I'll get a case of bud's and boom. Perfect.

I wouldn't be too worried about a test pipe screwing up your warranty or anything really. Then again, it isn't too hard to get off and get the original slapped back in.
 
I wouldn't be too worried about a test pipe screwing up your warranty or anything really. Then again, it isn't too hard to get off and get the original slapped back in.

it depends on the stealership, the one I got the car from gave me crap for the boost gauge... the other one didn't care much about all the mods
 

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