The elusive 2 receiver hitch

[Silentnoise713]

The elusive 2 receiver hitch

I still cannot get over a 2 hitch and have been researching creative ways of getting one. Im aware of the cars limitations and legal implications so Im not looking for any debates. If you feel you must discuss these points, please create a new thread. Im NOT advocating this either. Im looking to see IF they fit, not whether if it is right or wrong. Im not looking to tow a boat (not that I have one) or anything out of beyond class 2 limits. Any other creative setup you may have come across is appreciated. I would also appreciate some input from folks who are familiar with class 3/4 setups on trucks.

From what I can see, the Curt hitch for the 12 appear to fit <10. IMO, it is the best option but also a slightly more involving install (cutting exhaust heat shield). Unfortunately it is still a Class 1 with 1.25 receiver. You can always get one custom made but due to the cars limitations, it would not be cost effective.

Option 1:
Thumbs up for human ingenuity! This is exactly what I was hoping to find. Unfortunately our license plate is on the hatch door and not the bumper else Id be all over this. Can still make it work on the Mz5 but youd need to make a perfect cut out and a trap door on the bumper (like SUVs) to cover the opening. Perhaps it won't be as bad if you weld the receiver on the bottom of the support beam.
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160121
Note that the poster took someone elses idea (mention in the post) and improved upon it greatly.

Option 2&3:
Another option is the CX5 Curt Class 3 (NOTE IT HAS CLASS 2 LIMITS, with a 2 receiver so it's not a true class 3!) or Reese Multi-fit (Im not a fan of Reese quality but these things are class 3&4). Ive looked under the car and took some VERY rough measurements and it seems a CX5 hitch may technically fit but may require drilling a hole (could not confirm). BUT, the issue is with our muffler. It rests directly under the unibody support beam so theres no clearance to mount the hitch to the beam. The CX5 has a center mount exhaust with dual tips so theres clearance on both sides. Assumption, this may partly explain why only light weight hitches are available for passenger cars as the muffler always gets in the way (from the hitch manufacturer stand point, not talking about the cars limitations). However, CX5 hitch may be plausible IF you also opt for a smaller diameter muffler. Going with a 7 oval universal just might provide the clearance on the inner beam to mount one of these! The 5 round universal will definitely provide the clearance. Assumption, I think the center mount dual exhaust from the 2.5 CX5/Mz3 should fit with some minor modifications (cut bumper + welding hanger +?) since the newer 2.5L Mz3 come with this type of setup. If going this route, there are aftermarket options from Racing Beat but Im interested in going there.

CX5 hitch. Yes, I realize there are other userful measurements I could and should have asked for.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Measurement-Request-for-Curt-Hitch&highlight=

Underside of 2012 with curt hitch and ROUGH measurements from an '08. If someone here has or can get a 2012 Curt hitch and take the same measurements as the CX5 hitch, we'll know if they use the same mounts -or not. Seems pretty close to me



Reese Multi-fit.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

 

[Wishmaster]

Hmmm, just tossing this out there... but if you're willing to do some cutting and welding... taking a cue from option 1... you could buy an existing Class 1 hitch with a 1.25” receiver, buy a 2" receiver (like that ^ guy did), cut off the 1.25" receiver and weld on the 2" receiver.

 

[Silentnoise713]

This was my very first option when I was initially pursuing a 2 receiver. The problem (or limitation) with this appraoch is that it is still built ontop of a Class I hitch (weaker mounting points). I elimiated Hidden Hitch and Draw Tight b/c their mouts are too weak, IMO. The <10 Curt may work and can easily replace the reciver but Im still not very confidant due to how/where it mounts. The +12 Curt would have been a very feasilby option BUT Curt changed to round tubing AND integreatd the recdeived into the design so cuttinn it off and welding on a replacment would be an exercise in precision b/c if I mess up it would not align properly. If Curt stuck with square tubes and the receiver was simply welded like the previous desing, this would be my prefered way to go!

Ive been thinking about the Option1 more and realize this can be accomplished easily and without hampering the cars daily use. Theres still the need to make a cut-out.

Option 1a Buy a spare bumper reinformacne beam to play with (junk yard)! To make it even easier and fool proof, mont it onto a long pice of wood plank. This will allow you to cut off the beam yet still keep the base in the proper distance and make it easier to weld on the tubing.

Option 1b To cut cost, you can also just take off your existing bumper reinforcement beam and trace the mouting plate and bolt holes onto a long piece of wood. You can then use this teapmlte to build-up a hitch. This would truly be a DIY effort from the ground up but would be the cheapest options for a handy persion.


Actually, the oringal creator of the bumper beam hitch had it even easier and cost effecitve. He simply made the necesssary cut to make a hole and welded a 1.25 receiver directly into the reinforcment beam, then cut an access hole in the bumper, behind the license plate genious! Not as strong as the revised method mentioned above but you cant beat the cost and for Class 1, this is perfectly acceptable. Not sure yet if want to do this with a 2" receiver.

 

[Wishmaster]

Ahh yes, I see. I like what you're thinking about and what the golf owner did... my only questions/considerations would be...

1. There doesn't appear to be enough length (on the golf example to allow the ballmount enough room to slide in... but I guess that's easily remedied by cutting the ball mount shorter!

2. Do you think there might be some liability issues if, in the off chance, an accident occurs and the insurance company notices you've cut/welded/modified part of crash structure of the vehicle?

 

[Silentnoise713]

So I’ve done some research/measurements/experimenting b/c I realllllly want a 2” receiver. I don’t believe in limiting myself if there is the potential for a better option. It’s not just the opening that I want, I also want it to be capable.

I was really optimistic that CX5 class 3 (rated for Class 2 limits!) would fit b/c it is based on the same unibody chassis as the Mz3/Mz5 but with a “strengthen rear end” per some publication I previously read. I wanted to try it but don’t want to pay shipping/restocking fees and can’t just go pick one up to try. I had to think outside of the box. While doing art with the kids I had an Aha! moment. We had some large cardboard boxes needing to recycle so I figure why not just make one to simulate a test fit! I have measurements thanks to a CX5 member! It was pretty easy and a fun way to spend some time measuring, cutting, and taping. The replica is not 100% to scale but I tried my best to replicate it.

In summary….. I can officially say there is no freaking way it can fit. The mounting holes do not align, the mounting plate do not seat flush b/c the Mz5 horizon beam has odd patch weld for some kind of support, the bend in the hitch arms hit the bumper reinforcement beam, the cross section gets in the way of the rear tow hook, and finally the receiver is about 2-3” too low sticking out like a sore thumb. At least I have closure.


So, I went amazon shopping and lucked out on an Amazon clearance deal for a 2012 Curt Class 1.
It arrived yesterday and wow this thing is STURDY. It is THICK, nice clean solid welds, and just plan looks like awesomeness! I called a shop and was quoted $100 (seems kinds high but haven’t called around) for labor to cut out and swap in a 2” receiver but now that I have this thing in my hand and actually see and feel how well it is constructed, I don’t think I need the 2” anymore (but still on my back of my mind). Another reason I wanted a class 3 (opens up to 2” receiver) is b/c higher class hitches are made out of thicker grade steel and better welds/construction. Purely my opinion (and I am not advocating this hitch beyond the purposes of a class 1) but I definitely feel this hitch is a lot more capable than Class 1 -I’ll leave it at that. It is more involving to install and requires cutting the OE exhaust heat shield but good and easy don’t usually go together.

The limitation now lies more on the car’s ability (rear suspension, brakes, transmission, and to a less degree power) to handle more tongue/tow weight. I have plans for all of the weaknesses, minus the engine so I feel this will suite my needs well. From what I can see and compare, the underside of the <’10 and >’12 are the same except the Mazda cut down (1/3) on the size of the exhaust heat shield. Hoping to get it on one of these weekends and will report back.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Pics!

 

[Silentnoise713]

Pics!

Not sure what pics you are asking for but etrailer is a good start.
http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Mazda/5/2012/C11127.html?vehicleid=2012305980

What you don’t get is the touch/feel to get a sense of the sheer heftiness of its weight and thickness of the steel. Post to come once mounted and will put something next to it so you can get a sense of the thickness. I am very happy it has 4 point mounting to the unibody frame rails (standard of any half decent hitch) and not the bumper support beam typical of class 1s. I really appreciate Curt taking the effort to build the panel to wrap around the muffler b/c it gets in the way. I was suspect the panels are not thick enough –I feel much more confidant. Other vendors take short cuts but this is probably more desirable for the typical user aiming for class 1 and easy install. If we had the option of going aftermarket exhaust to free up the mount points directly to avoid the unnecessary panels, I suspect this will really open up the rear for a higher class hitch, car limit notwithstanding. However, I suspect Curt won’t make any money on that and opening themselves to liability since this car is technically not rated to tow –in the US… This Curt is rated class 1 BUT it does NOT have the notches inside, which class 2 do not have -just saying .

Also to add, I belive 4pt hitch helps to strengthen the rear end (bracing), to a smaller degree, from rear impact b/c I do use the 3rd row occasionally b/c kids like to sit there sometimes.

I need to decide if I want 2 incher or not... I don't like the idea have having to use TWO locking anti-rattle hitch pins (more $$ and failure point). Need to sleep on it.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Yeah- basically just wanted pictures of the hitch itself, how it matches up to your car, packaging etc... $150 isn't bad at all for that.

I guess I'm curious, but when I need to tow something I'll use the hitch that was built into my pickup.

 

[Silentnoise713]

Yeah- basically just wanted pictures of the hitch itself, how it matches up to your car, packaging etc... $150 isn't bad at all for that.

I guess I'm curious, but when I need to tow something I'll use the hitch that was built into my pickup.

Yeah, my DD is the polar opposite of a truck.

I agree $150 is a not a bad priced but it can be had for cheaper on Amazon ($130). Now, if you find one for $30 to your door, would you still do it

I also just bought the Softride Dura Assist rack and the TailGator and I’m not even 101% sure this hitch works on the <’10 model –yikes (99.9% sure it will)! Soon, I can (not that I will) carry 6 bikes, which goes well since the car has 6 seats!


EDIT: started a new thread with pics since this is now no longer about 2" receivers.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...hitch-install-on-lt-’10&p=6216591#post6216591

 

[phunky.buddha]

Yeah for $30 I'd probably get it- but with the truck on hand I'd still never use it.