tap into factory door speaker wires

I am looking for a tutorial on how to tap into the factory wiring that goes into the doors so I can add an aftermarket amp and speakers. Want to disable the bose sfuff, install after market amps in the hatch, then run the speaker wires somewhere to tap into the wires that run to the speakers in the doors.

I found a tutorial on how to run speaker wires in to the door, but that looks like it is pretty tough and I just would rather use the wires already there. I found a tutorial on how to add a LOC....but nothing on how to tap into the wires without messing with the bose amp (I want to disconnect it.)
 
+1 ^ I also found that write-up to wire aftermarket speaker wires. And I also found it to be a pain in the ass. I could NOT get that white molex connector out for the life of me.
 
Search for a bose amp pin out. There are a couple floating around that I have seen.

If you can't find one, disconnect your battery, and use a 9v battery to the amplifier out wires. When you find the right pos and neg, you will hear the speaker crackle.

The first option is the better one.

EDIT

Funny enough, the thread 2 down from this one has the info you need

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123776945

EDIT again

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4478623&postcount=3
 
Last edited by a moderator:
thanks Smoke,
I had read that pretty thoroughly. The problem with that pin out is that it does not mention tweeter or mid base wires.. just right from or left front. Does this mean the xover for the tweet/mid is in the door somewhere. I really dont want a "rogue" xover in my system if I can help it.
 
I am looking for a tutorial on how to tap into the factory wiring that goes into the doors so I can add an aftermarket amp and speakers. Want to disable the bose sfuff, install after market amps in the hatch, then run the speaker wires somewhere to tap into the wires that run to the speakers in the doors.

I found a tutorial on how to run speaker wires in to the door, but that looks like it is pretty tough and I just would rather use the wires already there. I found a tutorial on how to add a LOC....but nothing on how to tap into the wires without messing with the bose amp (I want to disconnect it.)

rearch for the "underseat wiring diagram", but it looks like its embedded in smokes link, there was a revision, the original had a polarity flipped in the rear

I have a how to search for "photo essay" doing essentially the same thing.
I am running a gsx 1200 with a basslink 200 off the stock harness to include stock power cable
 
thanks Smoke,
I had read that pretty thoroughly. The problem with that pin out is that it does not mention tweeter or mid base wires.. just right from or left front. Does this mean the xover for the tweet/mid is in the door somewhere. I really dont want a "rogue" xover in my system if I can help it.

Yes, crossover is in the door.
 
that means I will have to run the wires the hard way, if I really don't want an extra cross over in the mix. Which I don't

I believe the "cross over" in the door is just on the tweeter. There is a capacitor in the wiring somewhere.

Someone can correct me if I am wrong. I didn't much look at the stock system, I just ripped it out and started from scratch including running new wires to the front doors.
 
rearch for the "underseat wiring diagram", but it looks like its embedded in smokes link, there was a revision, the original had a polarity flipped in the rear

I have a how to search for "photo essay" doing essentially the same thing.
I am running a gsx 1200 with a basslink 200 off the stock harness to include stock power cable

I was searching for a thread I had read about someone improving the Bose system. I just realized it was your's! Kudos!
 
Use the wiring harness going into the Bose amp for your amp connections. The single harness has both line in and speaker out wires.

As far as the stock crossover goes, make some wires to bypass it in the door itself. That way you don't have to worry about going through that white thing in the door jamb. Here's a diagram of what I did:

78766325.gif


Green wires are stock wires, magenta wires are ones I fabricated. The stock wires for the speaker and the tweeter in the door are solid white (pos) and solid gray (neg). At least for my 2009 3 GT.
 
that means I will have to run the wires the hard way, if I really don't want an extra cross over in the mix. Which I don't

SMALL CAP BEHIND THE TWEET SAIL
oops
easy to pull while you are replacing the bose tweets
which you should do

you should search a bit, there are several good write ups on easy minimal upgrades
 
I really like Cloud Walker's idea. But don't you think when you feed your new speakers some real wattage, the stock wiring might not be enough? I really wanna try this!!! I just don't trust the stock speaker wire...I got a JL Audio 300/4 so I would be pushing 75 W RMS to the fronts (and backs). Will this be OK??
 
I really like Cloud Walker's idea. But don't you think when you feed your new speakers some real wattage, the stock wiring might not be enough? I really wanna try this!!! I just don't trust the stock speaker wire...I got a JL Audio 300/4 so I would be pushing 75 W RMS to the fronts (and backs). Will this be OK??

I push https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) to each door, and i never removed the stock wire through the doors. I spliced cable from it to reach my crossover, then run 16 gauge from the crossover to the woofer and tweeter. It's current that kills wire, not wattage, so unless you've got 1 ohm door speakers, I wouldn't worry too much. (headshake

I could never find a good place to put aftermarket crossovers... Alpine SPX XO's are HUGE. PPI XO's are HUGER. Mine are in my map pockets, with foam on either side to keep them from flapping around. (dunno)
 
I push https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned) to each door, and i never removed the stock wire through the doors. I spliced cable from it to reach my crossover, then run 16 gauge from the crossover to the woofer and tweeter. It's current that kills wire, not wattage, so unless you've got 1 ohm door speakers, I wouldn't worry too much.

what he said

all the stock wires are fine for very nice audio,


except for the wires inside the blose amp, and the VC in the blose tweet
 
Search for a bose amp pin out. There are a couple floating around that I have seen.

If you can't find one, disconnect your battery, and use a 9v battery to the amplifier out wires. When you find the right pos and neg, you will hear the speaker crackle.

The first option is the better one.

EDIT

Funny enough, the thread 2 down from this one has the info you need

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123776945

EDIT again

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4478623&postcount=3


Hey Smoke, these links you posted are for an older model I think. I have a 2010 Mazda 3 hatch with the BOSE system and none of my connectors/harnesses for my bose amp are blue like in the pictures in the above URL.

Do you happen to have a pinout diagram for the 2010 models? I'm in need of proper amps and subs in my car but I don't want to destroy factory wiring if I can just steal the ones going in or out of the stock Bose amp.

I haven't been able to find any additional information regarding a pinout diagram for the 2010 bose amp. So I tried a few things today and this is what I found.

I pulled out the center (green) harness and tested each pair of wires with a portable radio with speaker outputs.

It has a total of 16 pins, not all are used. Flat side down starting top left and going right is where I started counting from 1.

PINS 3 & 4 (wire colors gray & purple) output audio out of BOTH Rear High tweeters (Keep in mind I have a hatch, not sure if the sedan models have these behind the seats or not)

PINS 5 & 6 (wire colors orange & pink) is for the center channel speaker below the HU display

PINS 7 & 8 (wire colors sky blue & brown) are for the passenger side rear door

PINS 9 & 10 (wire colors greenish blue & white) are for the driver's side rear door

There is only one other wire connected to this harness and it is a single black wire connected to pin 13. Unknown what it does.

I tried testing the next harness which is black and closest to the front of the car, with no luck.
I could not get any audio out of any speakers when I connected my audio source to each pair, I tried various combinations of pin connections.

So here's what I still need....Wire colors and locations for the following speakers:

Driver's Front Door kicker speaker
Driver's Front Door tweeter
Passenger Front Door kicker speaker
Passenger Front Door tweeter


THANKS
 

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