GREAT PLACE, Thanks to everyone here.
The Blue LED interior is awesome...i try that after solving this
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Here it goes:
Please reference post
Same problem, could not fix or find fix. I was searching forum to see if anyone has my issue. I have the same problem right now.
-New amp installed but does not turn on with wiring that worked (amp tested OK/fuses OK/GRND OK), wiring setup same, remote seems to be problem reading only 3-6 volts instead of 12V (use to read 12V).
Remote wire is from YLW/Silver dot from the stock deck. Details below. Trying to be specific as possible. I know I can run a new remote line setup from batt>current limiter>switch>amp but I want to know how to fix this, and why it happened.
Thank you. I am a newbie to Mazda 3, last was 02' Protege.
DETAILS:
Car: 2005 Mazda 3 GS.
Deck: Stock non-bose single CD without MD/CASS/XM/MP3 (fyi, mp3 option is $590 cdn)
Audio setup: One LOC (passive 2 channel) running off rear spkr wires, 50 amp breaker, 8g power wire (11ft) and ground(10"), 14g (6ft) remote wire, connectors on all ends of wire. Remote is running of the yellow/silver dots (12v ACC). Monster 6ft RCA, Monster 0.5F CAP. Front spkr Clarion SRC5716 with Pheonix Gold X-Over on stock tweeters.
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Everything above remained the same.
All was good running with, Soundstream Angina mono amp, and a Alpine ZR-10 (SWR-254e) 10" sub inside a 4th order bandpass box @ 1.3 cubic FT.
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Until...the bass began turning on and off. I checked the wiring and voltage, ran other 12V sources to amp= OK. Back to car's 12V=OK...back smells. Sub was blown (cone ripped from the spider). Replacing sub with identical sub. Tested resistance and sound before installing back into box, OK, bass fade came back...the Amp was also damaged. Only some sound comes out on full range, but on low-pass..nothing no sound.
-------------------------------
Replaced amp with trusty Alpine V12, model ??, 2 x 100 or 1 x 230RMS >4ohms. Amp was tested with 12V supply before installing into car with the cap/others. The wire ends all fitted nicely on to Alpine amp, new sub connected. All connections checked out ok with voltage reading around 12V through the cap. Grounding was ok.
-PWR=12V all the way from batt >breaker >cap >amp.
-GRND=0, touch PWR and Chassis ground =12V.
-REMOTE wire=3.30 to 6.28V ...too low to turn on amp.
Checked the remote junction to head unit=11.98V (12V)....how? The stock yellow/silver dot wire runs from deck, piggyback connector made to stock wire on to Amp's remote wire>all the way to amp.
Wire was ran again to check for breaks/leaks/..wire is perfect.
Tested with connecting short wire to RMT from PWR= amp turns on.
The car deck is not turning on this amp (my last one) Help.
Can the deck be jumping from 12V down to 3V on the remote (yellow/silver wire)?
How can I troubleshoot this to fix?
Oh and the fuses were checked, all A-OK.
ERIC
PS: Thanks for your patience in reading all this. Now I can sleep....
The Blue LED interior is awesome...i try that after solving this
-------------------
Here it goes:
Please reference post
Code:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116596-New amp installed but does not turn on with wiring that worked (amp tested OK/fuses OK/GRND OK), wiring setup same, remote seems to be problem reading only 3-6 volts instead of 12V (use to read 12V).
Remote wire is from YLW/Silver dot from the stock deck. Details below. Trying to be specific as possible. I know I can run a new remote line setup from batt>current limiter>switch>amp but I want to know how to fix this, and why it happened.
Thank you. I am a newbie to Mazda 3, last was 02' Protege.
DETAILS:
Car: 2005 Mazda 3 GS.
Deck: Stock non-bose single CD without MD/CASS/XM/MP3 (fyi, mp3 option is $590 cdn)
Audio setup: One LOC (passive 2 channel) running off rear spkr wires, 50 amp breaker, 8g power wire (11ft) and ground(10"), 14g (6ft) remote wire, connectors on all ends of wire. Remote is running of the yellow/silver dots (12v ACC). Monster 6ft RCA, Monster 0.5F CAP. Front spkr Clarion SRC5716 with Pheonix Gold X-Over on stock tweeters.
--------------------
Everything above remained the same.
All was good running with, Soundstream Angina mono amp, and a Alpine ZR-10 (SWR-254e) 10" sub inside a 4th order bandpass box @ 1.3 cubic FT.
----------------------
Until...the bass began turning on and off. I checked the wiring and voltage, ran other 12V sources to amp= OK. Back to car's 12V=OK...back smells. Sub was blown (cone ripped from the spider). Replacing sub with identical sub. Tested resistance and sound before installing back into box, OK, bass fade came back...the Amp was also damaged. Only some sound comes out on full range, but on low-pass..nothing no sound.
-------------------------------
Replaced amp with trusty Alpine V12, model ??, 2 x 100 or 1 x 230RMS >4ohms. Amp was tested with 12V supply before installing into car with the cap/others. The wire ends all fitted nicely on to Alpine amp, new sub connected. All connections checked out ok with voltage reading around 12V through the cap. Grounding was ok.
-PWR=12V all the way from batt >breaker >cap >amp.
-GRND=0, touch PWR and Chassis ground =12V.
-REMOTE wire=3.30 to 6.28V ...too low to turn on amp.
Checked the remote junction to head unit=11.98V (12V)....how? The stock yellow/silver dot wire runs from deck, piggyback connector made to stock wire on to Amp's remote wire>all the way to amp.
Wire was ran again to check for breaks/leaks/..wire is perfect.
Tested with connecting short wire to RMT from PWR= amp turns on.
The car deck is not turning on this amp (my last one) Help.
Can the deck be jumping from 12V down to 3V on the remote (yellow/silver wire)?
How can I troubleshoot this to fix?
Oh and the fuses were checked, all A-OK.
ERIC
PS: Thanks for your patience in reading all this. Now I can sleep....
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