Still going lean with FM clamp

Here's how it works.

The clamp itself will limit the upper voltage that will get passed through to the ECU. It doesn't matter if the true voltage is 0.9v or 0.6, the clamp will pass through 0.39v (or wherever it happens to be set). We don't set it right for stoich because we'd prefer to have the stock ECU help out a bit by trying to correct for what it sees as a lean condition.

The click is from a pressure switch. Below the threshold (right around ambient pressure), the O2 signal is passed through unmolested. Above it, the clamp is used and the O2 signal is limited to a slightly lean condition. You'll hear the switch click once or several times as you go into boost, but it won't continue to make noise once it's changed over.

There's no way for the ECU to "learn" around this as far as I know, as the ECU doesn't realise there's anything to learn. If you're finding that the clamp is less effective, I suspect it's due to a mechanical problem elsewhere such as a failing fuel pump.

If you want to check if the clamp is working, check the voltage of the O2 signal at the ECU (ie, AFTER the clamp). It should dither around at idle and cruise, centering at 0.45v. Once you go into boost, the pressure switch should click and the O2 signal should steady at 0.39v. I believe that's the voltage we set them to. If the voltage stays at 0.45v or goes higher, there's a problem.

Keith
Flyin' Miata
 
a problem with the switch? i doubt its the switch though because its brand new. thank you on your off day for checking this thread for me keith.

maybe its the wiring...damn i need a soldering iron just to be sure. im about to head out there shortly.
 
Mine always stays around .365v. I'm not sure what's up with my system, but after 6 PSI, sometimes it would still lean out. Could be mechanical. Definitely not ruled out.
 
and besides, it has to do with the clamp whether it be bad clamp or bad wiring if the fuel press is going up to 100psi.
 
Thanks for clearing up my misunderstanding for me Pat and Keith. I thought that the clamp lowered the voltage by a adjustable amount, but it seems that you guys know more about it than I do.:) I guess if the clamp is always going to limit the voltage to a certain point, then that adjustment screw won't help you Matt.
 
A few points:

1. If you are running over 100 PSI of fuel, your fine as far as the poump goes.
2. The clamp will work at 8 PSI, it did for me for a year. I only ever heard it click going in and out of boost.
3. The ECU can't learn around a signal its no longer getting.
4. Once the clamp kicks in, the ECU sees the clamp and only the clamp, even a bad 02 sensor can't cause this because the clamp could care less what its doing.
5. I was able to easily go past my wideband 02's measurable limits with how rich I could get it.
6. There is always a chance your AF sensor is junked, want to buy my wide band? :D


If the clamp is constantly clicking then I would first check that the o2 signal going to it is fine. To do this, T off of it and feed the T to your boost gauge instead of what goes there now. Then tape off the old vac line for the gauge. I am guessing the line has a hole. Basicly, the clamp kicks in at 1 PSI but thats all the line holds before it starts leaking off boost and then it drops back to 14.7 psi (ambiant air pressure) and the clamp kicks off again.
 
Matthew said:
i guess, would a bad o2 sensor affect the way the clamp is effective or not?


Not for when the clamp is active... it would pass .39V regardless... so it wouldn't matter at all what your O2 is doing....

Check for the .39V and you'll have your answer. :D

Later!

Steve

EDIT: Firsty just posted right when I was doing it... but yeah... the vac line would be a GREAT thing to double check as a leak would give you exactly the behavior you are describing.
 
no leak in the vacuum line...it doesnt STAY on it just clicks multiple times and then shuts off...if its only supposed to click ONE time and one time only, then i guess...
 
on another bad note. i disconnected my battery ust out of curiousity to see if that would fix the problem, and when i reconnected my amp doesnt work anymore. i checked the fuse its fine...jesus ******* christ i hate this car.
 
Whats your head unit and are you talking about a sub amp?
It likely that the subwoofer output is disabled when the deck resets.
 
no its for my 6" bostons int he front...alpine 9811 deck. ive reset my ecu so many times and never had the problem before. the amp isnt turning on (the light wont come on)
 
Matthew said:
no leak in the vacuum line...it doesnt STAY on it just clicks multiple times and then shuts off...if its only supposed to click ONE time and one time only, then i guess...
Thats why I would put the boost gauge on that vac line ot be 100% thee is no leak in it. The clamp will only click on and off constanty if it is seeing and then not seeing boost.
 
thats whats happening.

0psi - nothing
1psi - clicliclkcicliclicclicliclicclkcliclck
2psi - nothign
 
Matthew said:
thats whats happening.

0psi - nothing
1psi - clicliclkcicliclicclicliclicclkcliclck
2psi - nothign
Right, becuase at 1 PSI the line may have a small enough hole to hold in some boost so that the clamp is constqantly seeing then not seeing the boost. However, once it hits 2 PSI + the vac line to the clamp may be leaking everything off and never getting more then ambiant air pressure. CHECK IT!
 
i dont have a multimeter and yes the radio is turning on. plus i was listening to the radio with amp, shut the car off. went disconnected battery, turned car on after pumpnig brakes, no amp. i didnt touch anything but the negative terminal of the battery.;
 

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