ccrunner2011
Member
- :
- 2002 Protege5, Classic Red
I'm repurposing a Kohler engine oil filter adapter from my dad's work. I'm adding another intercooler for the tranny and engine because i do a lot of highway driving at consistent speeds above 70mph.
Started the teardown
- Thread starter Sandawgk5
- Start date
I'm repurposing a Kohler engine oil filter adapter from my dad's work. I'm adding another intercooler for the tranny and engine because i do a lot of highway driving at consistent speeds above 70mph.
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
an oil cooler won't hurt anything, but won't fix an issue of infrequent oil changes...on a 'regular' FS engine anyway.
the problem isn't just heat, its oil condition overall...As it gets dirtier, it'll stick in those piston skirt holes more...once it sticks there, then it will over heat and partially burn...making it sort of permanent until a tear down...
So even with an oil cooler you should try an keep up with oil changes...Its hard to explain quickly, but the problem i mentioned isn't a 'performance heat' type of thing...its not that the engine is being driven hard and is breaking down the oil from insane cylinder temperatures (that is where oil coolers come in)...its a localized heat issue exploited from an engine with piston coolers, high stroke and high piston acceleration...and oil filtering is actually what keeps the problem at bay the most it seems, at least from what i've read digging around this forum...Thats why i'm saying keep up with the oil changes.
lastly, i'm not trying to freak anyone out...this isn't a problem with the FS that will lead to any real failure...its just why they eventually burn some oil...this had nothing to do with the OP's tear down also, although he did mention the oil changes not being ideal...so it might be one of a few problems that caused...
ccrunner2011
Member
- :
- 2002 Protege5, Classic Red
If you're not having problems, no. Frequent oil changes and just being easy on it will be all you need.
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
yeah, what cc said. Just use good filters, good synthetic oil, and change it at 7500 miles or so...or at least once a year...that alone with normal driving is good for nearly 200,000 more miles...at least a lot of guys have gotten that far anyway.
Good news, the block, crank, rods and pistons were all good. The crank was able to be polished and the block only honed. They said they had a bit of trouble getting one of the squirters out but finally got it. I pick everything up tomorrow and will begin reassembly. I have to get it done and back in since I am moving and have to be out of my current place by the first of the year.
Dik
Dik
Got everything back from the machinist yesterday. The crank only needed a polishing, and the block only needed honing. The head was still flat within .0015". The rods did get re-sized and I was amazed how clean everything come back, everything looks brand new. Re-assembly starts this evening. I hope to have it back on the road by this weekend. All in all I have about $700 in parts and machining in this rebuild. A replacement engine might have a been a bit cheaper but after shipping I think in the end it would have been more, plus I know the work going into this and how it was treated.
And, I like doing it.
I still need to get the two 5th gear nuts from Mazda to finish the trans after the reseal I did and do the final install of the 5th gear cover. then it all goes back in.
Dik
And, I like doing it.
I still need to get the two 5th gear nuts from Mazda to finish the trans after the reseal I did and do the final install of the 5th gear cover. then it all goes back in.
Dik
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
awesome man. Glad its working out. Now keep up with the oil changes and you won't have to do it again any time soon haha.
CR3 Motorsports
Member
Awesome! Looking good!
I got the engine in on the 31st and it would turn over but not fire. I could smell fuel and I verified spark, that left only one thing, the timing. I checked the manual once again and that is when I realized I did not put the cam sprockets on in the right location. I totally missed the diagram in the manual when I was putting them on. Needless to say, timing the engine once it has been fully assembled and installed in the car is doable but not ideal. 3 hours later and it fired right up on the first try. I have a few days and several heat cycles on it and no leaks. The reseal on the transmission was successful also, no more driveway drips.
Thanks for all the help and advice.
Dik
Thanks for all the help and advice.
Dik
