Spark plug help strikes again

TurfBurn said:
I'd say C... and I can tune the car if you have the software and will pay for the dyno time so we can read your AFR's...

I will *gladly* pay for dyno time if it meant I could end this seemingly never-ending battle to balance this car's tune. P.M. with your schedule for this coming week and maybe we could go to dynotuned performance or something.

Thanks a bazillion Steve (first)
 
I have NGK zfr7f-11 gaped to .032. I installed them like 3 days ago and they seem to be working good. You guys think these are good plugs??
 
those are extended reach.. keep in mind that they essentially advance your timing by a couple of degrees... they work well but they do make you more prone to detonation because of how they move the flame front deeper into the chamber.
 
tallrd said:
I will *gladly* pay for dyno time if it meant I could end this seemingly never-ending battle to balance this car's tune. P.M. with your schedule for this coming week and maybe we could go to dynotuned performance or something.

Thanks a bazillion Steve (first)

dynotuned is about 150 an hour on the dyno with AFR. Should take that or less really to do it... but otherwise get a wideband for 320 and we can just do it on the street and you'll really get a good feel for it overall... whatever direction you want to go basically.

I should be free any evening but Thursday next week.
 
TurfBurn said:
those are extended reach.. keep in mind that they essentially advance your timing by a couple of degrees... they work well but they do make you more prone to detonation because of how they move the flame front deeper into the chamber.

I thought the zfr7f-11 were a step colder plugs??
 
well yes and no... they are a heat range step colder... but being extended reach they'll run as hot or hotter than a heat range 6 standard reach plug.

heat range is just how well the insulator will dissipate heat, doesn't mean anything about timing and combustion changes.
 
TurfBurn said:
well yes and no... they are a heat range step colder... but being extended reach they'll run as hot or hotter than a heat range 6 standard reach plug.

heat range is just how well the insulator will dissipate heat, doesn't mean anything about timing and combustion changes.


what does extended reach mean, sorry for newb question??
 
the ground strap and the electrode tip protrude roughly 4-6mm further than your "standard" plug.. meaning they are about 4-6mm longer going away from the end of the threaded part of the plug.
 
TurfBurn said:
the ground strap and the electrode tip protrude roughly 4-6mm further than your "standard" plug.. meaning they are about 4-6mm longer going away from the end of the threaded part of the plug.


So if I gapped them to .032 (which I did) I should be OK??

Sorry "Tallrd" i didnt mean to threadjack.
 
Last edited:
I just took a pic of mine today. They were in my car for about 3 days.
Do they look OK?? Plus im running techron and i hope that is not affecting them.
 

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97Protegedx said:
I just took a pic of mine today. They were in my car for about 3 days.
Do they look OK?? Plus im running techron and i hope that is not affecting them.

They look good. There is a little soot around the first and second thread, which is slightly rich but the white is white:)

What you have to watch out for is a pepper effect on the white. Also, a lot of soot would indicate too rich or too cold. The tip that curves over (I forget what that is) is also clean and not charred.
 
the curved tip is the "ground strap" according to a lot of places..

you are rich at idle (the threads) and the insulator is clean (the white) and you have some yellowing of the ground strap which it's early yet for it to indicate clearly.. but your plugs will end up looking like tallrd's in the end which in my opinion is a little hot and lean but likely "fine".
 
TurfBurn said:
dynotuned is about 150 an hour on the dyno with AFR. Should take that or less really to do it... but otherwise get a wideband for 320 and we can just do it on the street and you'll really get a good feel for it overall... whatever direction you want to go basically.

I should be free any evening but Thursday next week.

If I got a WB02, wouldn't I need an a/f gauge as well?
 
TurfBurn said:
the curved tip is the "ground strap" according to a lot of places..

you are rich at idle (the threads) and the insulator is clean (the white) and you have some yellowing of the ground strap which it's early yet for it to indicate clearly.. but your plugs will end up looking like tallrd's in the end which in my opinion is a little hot and lean but likely "fine".


So do you guys even recommend getting step colder plugs??
If yeah which ones would you get, to help prevent detonation. Im just trying to make the MSP safer.
 
TurfBurn said:
most of the WBO2's like the PLX M-300 come with the gauge.

dyno it is. Can they give me what I need to know without me having to purchase anything?
 
Yeah.. you pay an extra 50 bucks for the wideband... but they put it in the tailpipe and it'll read everything we'd need to tune the DSM in tighter. I'll want to look at the DSM software some before we get on the dyno so I can find my way around, but it usually is a pretty easy bit.
 

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