someone please help me decide what to do for new bov

b6gtxawd

Member
:
2003.5 MSP
i am loosing my mind and ready to slit my wrists over this.

i can not decide for the life of me what to do. i do not know how to figure out if my CURRENT turbo xs bov is leaking and if i need a new one.
the reason i think it is leaking is because under full boost it sounds like its leaking and the spring is really weak feeling(meaning when i take it out of my bov its pretty easy to press with my hand, but that being said im not sure how easy it should even be to compress). im thinking maybe the pussy amount of psi the car puts out is enough to push my valve open under boost. can this infact happen?

if its shot, im stuck between getting the hks ssqv4, a new turbo xs, or just getting bpv and recirc. i would like to recirc for the reason of better drivability over some stupid sound of venting.

maybe i should save the 400 bucks it would cost for the hks with all the flanges and stuff and just take my car to a dyno shop and see whats really wrong with this car i want so bad to drive like it use to.
 
The stock BPV isn't actually that bad if you can get pressure to the WGA from somewhere before the throttle. I just recently moved my WGA boost source to a nipple I installed into a silicon coupler right off the turbo (SLS hot pipe) and it is a night and day difference. I still have some turkey at full boost at higher rpms, but the drivability has improved 100x. One of those mods I wish I had done years ago. I might have lost 1 psi or so, but it's completely worth it to get rid of the jerkiness of abruptly lifting the throttle under boost the car had stock.

Full boat price on the HKS plus the flange and recirc fitting is kind of ridiculous. Pick one up used or go back to the stock BPV. I have yet to find anyone who has given a back to back review between the stock BPV and the Forge, but the Forge is very reasonably priced.
 
Take it off and clean it first. Use light weight oil to clean the seal areas. If that does work get a new one.
 
I got my SSQV on this forum already mounted on a flanged black pipe for about $150. They are common enough, I wouldn't buy one new. And my car has excellent drivability with the BOV VTA, the trick is to properly locate the MAF.
 
The stock BPV isn't actually that bad if you can get pressure to the WGA from somewhere before the throttle. I just recently moved my WGA boost source to a nipple I installed into a silicon coupler right off the turbo (SLS hot pipe)

i was kind of wondering about the way my vac lines were set up. if that would have to do with something. so you just have the nipple on your hot pipe going to the wastegate instead of from the vac source on the IM? that might be thinking to think about i already have a nipple on my hot pipe for my boost controller, so i could t it off of that. i will post some pics for everyone and maybe you can give me some advice on how to route everything. i was thinking about going with a forge bpv as well but everything i read seems to contradict the thing i read before it haha.

Take it off and clean it first. Use light weight oil to clean the seal areas. If that does work get a new one.
i took it apart and cleaned the gunk off with a scotchbright or what ever. and sprayed it down with some wd 40(didnt have anything else for lube), its just hard to tell if its working or not.

I got my SSQV on this forum already mounted on a flanged black pipe for about $150. They are common enough, I wouldn't buy one new. And my car has excellent drivability with the BOV VTA, the trick is to properly locate the MAF.

by properly locating the MAF would that mean to have it 6 inched from throttle body and 12 from the BOV?
 
That sounds right you just want the BOV far enough ahead of the MAF to help reduce turbulence.
 
What does it do when you're actually driving it? The motor isnt under any load so thats going to make a difference in the BOV. My TurboXS doesnt open much if I just rev it like that.
 
I would also suggest running seperate lines for the wastegate and BOV (boost gauge too if you have one)

I have mine set up this way:

Boost gauge - stock nipple on IM
Wastegate & BOv - Vacuum block off of brake booster line, each has their own line fromt he vacuum block.
 
fair enough. my vac block is just hooked up to my IM vac source with my bov t'ed off the line going to the vac block. im going to try switching the block to the brake booster today. i will post pictures in an hour here when im free at work. thanks for the help guys i feel like my posts are never ending with questions
 
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so my boost pipe vac line and wastegate line go to my aem boost controller. everything else should be clear to see.
 
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I dont think BOV location is the issue, thats how close mine is for the most part.

Which TurboXS is that?
 
Looks like an H34 which is built for recirculated setups....Perhaps that the issue? I run the Type H...I suggest picking one of those up. Will run you aroun $130 new.
 
not sure what it is for certain but from the turbo xs site it looks like a recirculating one. it was on the car when i bought it.

im wondering if i should maybe just try and just recirculate it. or if just buying a new one and selling that would be a better choice
 
Try recirculating it.. and it does look like it opens way too easely I mean its not really suppose to vent like that by only reving it with no load , is it adjustable?

not sure what it is for certain but from the turbo xs site it looks like a recirculating one. it was on the car when i bought it.

im wondering if i should maybe just try and just recirculate it. or if just buying a new one and selling that would be a better choice
 
How many washers are installed in the BOV? If none, put a couple in there.
 
There are quite a few washers in there already. If I remember correctly there ate like 8 or 9 and the spring looks like it was cut shorter. I just looked and it says turbo xs bov on the top of it. And if I put my finger in the hole when the car is running it it very very easy to push the piston up (open). Is that normal.it's fairly hard to do when the car is off.

Can the spring wear out and get weak causing issues
 
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If someone cut the spring then it's going to be hard to get it working right.
 
the guys at turbo xs said something about it having to be cut cus if it were the length it came as it wouldnt ever open but i dont really believe much they say. everyone i have talked to at turbo xs seems like an ass. i might try and just find a new spring to put in there from a hardwear shop or something. see if that does anything, although it seemed to work really well when i first got the car. who knows if i just thought that cus it was my first turbo car with a bov and i was in love with the sound haha
 
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