Should I consider an AP next..?

mazdasp33d

Member
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Mazdaspeed 3
well heres the scoop. i have a corksport downpipe and test pipe in my room lol. im waiting to get a little more money for the rest of the exhaust and im going to put it all on at once; just have to wait for the weather to die down etc. but my question is should i get an accessport like asap? im planning on getting and inlet, then headers possibly. i am also debating a front mount or not as well. thanks
 
A tune is always good. Now that the 103Maps are official, you can simply download a new map as you add mods.
 
Install the test pipe now! Only takes 25 minutes if your catback exhaust gasket works alright (mine was rusted . . . had to buy new one).

With a DP its usually a good idea to get a tune but you should be fine. If I were in your shoes I would get a bpv if you dont have one and then a tune.

As for the FMIC debate, I thought long and hard. I ended up sending my front mount back for a top mount. My advice would be to get a top mount unless you plan on upgrading your turbo / upping your boost / going to drag strip often. Top mounts have pretty good resale so you can always sell it later for a FMIC. You also will save around 400 bucks which you can invest elsewhere. Front mounts wont give you too much peak performance over the top mount but they wont heatsoak which is good for track days.

Judging from the fact that you have a downpipe, warranty isn't your #1 priority. Top mounts are fast to install. front mounts as you prob know take at least a couple hours unless you have done it a million times.If you need to go in for warranty work, you will have to spend some time putting your car back to stock.
 
i wasn't trying to be helpful. i was sarcastic yes.
and i have said it in the past, and i'll say it again, i don't trust cobb.
they've ****** up a bunch of things.
and the ap is no different.
if you do run the ap, please please please make sure your mods reflect EXACTLY what the map notes say
 
i wasn't trying to be helpful. i was sarcastic yes.
and i have said it in the past, and i'll say it again, i don't trust cobb.
they've ****** up a bunch of things.
and the ap is no different.
if you do run the ap, please please please make sure your mods reflect EXACTLY what the map notes say

Thanks for sharing your opinion! :)
 
Common sense would tell me to run the exact parts specified by Cobb. I don't have an AP but I would be willing to bet that the negative reviews are coming from morons trying to cut corners, etc.
 
well i asked for a reason... idk if i should go ap. or cpe. im confused

Here is the deal. It all depends on your goals. If you want to push for every last HP/TQ or want to run a Big Turbo or another 5v source, then the SB is your really only option.

Also, if time/money/downtime does not bother you, then the SB is still a good choice for regular bolt-ons. I say time/money/downtime because of the following:

AP = With the AP for $700 you get the following: Basic OTS Tune, Full Throttle, Boost Cut Fix, Data Logging, A Boost Gauge, An AFR Gauge, A KR Gauge (Any many others), A Means to clear any CEL's you can get (Like the common DP CEL), Plug and Play, Free Updates and many more for the $700.

AP Downside = Right now there is no way to custom tune unless you live in Oregon or near Cobb. The Street Tuner is last reported to be out in a month or two, but don't hold your breath. You don't have to match your mods completely with the maps. A SR Intake is a SR Intake, a DP is a DP, a FMIC is a FMIC. Sure there may be minor differences between them but if you look at my Sig you will see I have a mix and match of mods and I run just fine on the Stage2 CA FMIC 91Oct 103 Release Map.

SB Cost = In order to get Tune / Flash / Full Throttle / Fuel Cut Fix / Plug and Play you have to buy all of them seperate - Thus more cost ($1100ish to $1500 from CPE Website). You have to get it tuned ($200 - $500 depending on location or you can do it yourself if you have any clue how too or you can learn through trial and error). You will also need to have a way to monitor your car. So you will need to buy a Boost Gauge, AFR Gauge, KR Light Etc. I highly recommend the Dash Hawk or Scan Gauge as they both can do that ($250ish).



SB Time = You have to pull out your ECU to send it to CPE to get the Flash. If you want it expedited on their end once they get it you can but at an additional cost. Expect 3 to 4 days downtime for this. Then you will have to get the SB tuned. If done professionally it can be done in a few hours. If you learn as you go doing it yourself then.............

So now that you have a full understanding on what you're getting into you can make a valid decision. The SB is a wonderful tool but it is more for those that really want to push it or have all the time/money in the world and don't mind their car being in the shop. The AP is for people like myself who wanted a better tune than stock with more power/TQ with less knock and is a simple Plug, Flash, Unplug (unless you use it as a boost/afr/KR gauge) and put it away device.

GL in your decision.
 
the full control flash isn't necessarily needed to run the sb. i don't run it. a boost gauge is 100% necessary with the sb since it clamps the map and the dh won't read boost properly. fcf is more for those going big turbo.
 
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