shaowq's Socal Mz2...Lets Begin!!!

shaowq

Member
:
2011 Mazda 2 Sport MT
We'll start off with this today (cabpatch)(cabpatch)


LetItBegin.jpg



Thanks for the help and everything Derrick
 
Nice! that's everything i wan't from CS.

I'll head there now (30 minute drive) and pretend i'm Michael ;-)

got any pics of the current state of your car is in? what are the big plans? goals?
 
Nice! that's everything i wan't from CS.

I'll head there now (30 minute drive) and pretend i'm Michael ;-)

got any pics of the current state of your car is in? what are the big plans? goals?


20120313_164438.jpg


20120313_164458.jpg


20120313_164512.jpg


Goal is honestly to make it a very streetable, fun car to drive. Obviously this car is very under powered and could use another 30+ horses to make it really fun to drive. I've thought about forced induction with the Japan rotrex kit but that kit is about 7-8k. So for now I'm going to settle for I/E/Pulley, when production headers are available and the jmac crew can effectively reflash the ECU for I/H/E/Cams/Pulley i'll go that route.

As for looks and handling, I'm not too sure if im going to go get all the bars yet. I have enough suspension experience to know that the 2 handles very well stock, which is why i went after the power mods first. Coilovers are in my near future as I sell the supercharger off my corolla as well as the shell of whats left of my other car.

Along with the coils i'm also looking to run the Bronze 6UL's 15x8 et 36. Most people have said that I shouldnt have any issues with rubbing with the 8's. Andres said he didn't have any issues with the H&R springs, but my plan is to get lower than the H&R springs and start to go low...and slow...and at least stanced. If I decide not to, then i'll go with the 15x7.5 et42 on coils and how flush i can get it to look.

I'm gonna grab a mazdas247 window decal for the back right above the MOCC decal along with the corksport decal maybe in the front, gonna retint my rear windshield instead of 20% to limo tint, get fog lights and spray them yellow myself, and retrofit the headlights to the H1 projectors. The retrofit will probably come within the next couple weeks, and the coils will prolly be in another month or so hopefully Megan Racing will contact me soon. I'm supposed to test fit their front strut bar as well.

Then when i sell my blower i'll be able to get my rims.

(edit) oh and i'll probably get the spray tint from the local auto parts store and tint my tail lights very very slightly, so that they're not so shiny and red, so that they'll look darker and blend with the car a bit better. The red and the white part is waaaaaay too flashy for me right now i'd like to tone it down just slightly...maybe 80-90% tint so you can still see the lights very clearly...they're just darker





looks like some1 got his tax return money early. lol

Actually, I still have my corolla dead in my garage and I managed to sell my BC coilovers, TWM Short Shifter, and TRD Japan under body brace. I'm looking to transplant my sound system from my corolla over to the 2 as well but I'm thinking I need to go with a smaller box...I'm currently running a Kicker CVR 12 in a ported box that weighs damned near 50lbs. I definately don't need that weight...so maybe a 10 or just a sealed lighter box instead.

I don't know if I'm going to use my Single Din 5 year old deck that's in the corolla, or get a double din nav...the nav is nice but i don't really like the flashy and i've gotten my car broken into before.
 
Last edited:
my problem is that i really like to do canyon runs and one of my buddies is flush and on one of the turns he hit a bump and now has a wrinkle in his fender.

I'm not gonna go hella flush, i don't think i have the patience to drive around like that...flush towards stanced would be perfect for me.

Oh and I'm not sure if i want the engine mount or not. I had one in my corolla and although the vibrations were acceptable it was very noticeable.
 
Can I ask you guys something? How are you sub boxes so heavy? I think all in all, my sub+box combo is like 20 lbs at most, add in the amp and that's 30 altogether.
 
I'm gonna grab a mazdas247 window decal for the back right above the MOCC decal along with the corksport decal maybe in the front, gonna retint my rear windshield instead of 20% to limo tint, get fog lights and spray them yellow myself, and retrofit the headlights to the H1 projectors. The retrofit will probably come within the next couple weeks, and the coils will prolly be in another month or so hopefully Megan Racing will contact me soon. I'm supposed to test fit their front strut bar as well.

Very interested in this Megan Racing STB -- any more details?
 
genericmoniker:5908947 said:
Can I ask you guys something? How are you sub boxes so heavy? I think all in all, my sub+box combo is like 20 lbs at most, add in the amp and that's 30 altogether.

it really depends on how big your box is and what kind of wood its made of and if its ported or sealed. ported boxes should weigh a little more and tend to be bigger. my box dimensions are roughly 20 inches wide 15 inches deep and around 15-18 inches tall. its the smallest ported box at .75 cu feet that would let my sub perform like it should. its also using .75 inch or maybe even 1 inch thick composite PDF I think they call it board and its carpeted. the port is also made so that it will produce the correct range. a lot of people make boxes not everyone makes them right. your sub matters too. what's the wattage on your sub? and how big is your magnet? for me the weight is all a rough estimate...the box with he sub might not weigh 50 pounds but it definately weighs more than 20. I lift 24 pound boxes all day and I don't struggle with them. if I don't grip my sub box right, I struggle and its definately heavier

a lot of people wonder why my one kicker cvr12 hits harder than their 2 12s in a sealed box and such and why my speakers sound so much clearer than theirs do, but when I asked them if they have used the correct box for their subs and if they set up their sound stage correctly they give me blank stares.

you could probably call me sort of an audiophile. I hate distortion I hate rattles I hate things that don't sound like they're supposed to sound like if you were at a concert. every song I play or diff genre I play involves me tweakinv my bass treble and sub settings.
 
Lightweight Pulley

I noticed that you have the lightweight pulley on your order - On my past two cars, I've upgraded cams, headers, exhaust and/or intakes before but never experimented with a different pulley. How much of difference in power does a lightweight pulley generally make?
 
honestly speaking on my corolla i did the I/H/E first. and with the intake header and exhaust i never really felt a difference. If there was a difference it was minute. When i got my alternator and crank pulley changed on my corolla i felt a huge difference. Leaps and bounds better than my OEM pullies. Reving was quicker, pickup was quicker, passing in 5th gear was quite a bit better than stock. But keep in mind...my crank pulley was an underdrive and lightweight pulley. It was lighter but it was smaller so it also moved less belt per rotation. The mazda2 pulley is just lightweight, which is preferred over an underdrive pulley in most cases.

your engine doesn't have to work as hard to get up to speed, so it essentially helps you go through the RPM band a bit quicker and put power down. Same kind of concept with a lightweight flywheel, only it applies directly to RPM as well. There's less weight for your transmission to need to move to get the flywheel move. If they made an alternator pulley, i would have gotten than too.
 
SO....after hugging my box for about 5 mins after i received it like a dork, i opened it and everything checks out fine so far.

All parts accounted for and nothing appears to be damaged or anything.

Thanks Again Derrick!!!






20120319_131357.jpg
 
Score! UPS was nice to your box from what I can see in the picture.

-Derrick
 
Back