SCC Mag Intake Test

bbrich57

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2004 Mazda3 HB
I apologize as I have been remiss. I had wanted to write this review sooner but have not had the time to think it through and actually write it up.
I received the new SCC magazine nearly a week ago, Feb 2009 edition, Vol 21, No.02 and this little article in the back of it, Test Bench, page 80 to be exact, really caught my eye. With all the talk of installing new intakes around here, which is the best, the most horsepower or mileage increase, etc, I thought this was highly significant.

The way the article is written, difficult to fully understand for a non-engineer such as myself, I had to read it twice to make sure what they were trying to
say.
Many of the graphs included are also so jumbled together that they too are hard to understand. Perhaps this is why they did not publish this article sooner and relegated it to the back pages of this issue?

Here"s my review of the article and I hope I understood their findings correctly:

The base car they used was a stock 2006 WRX with some miles on it using the stock-box.
They measured each of the three intakes for length using the centerline, not outside measurement.

The three intakes are:
1) The stock air-box and filter, 16.5" long.
2) An Injen CAI, 30.75" in length
3) A K&N Typhoon SRI, 7.75" in length.

Not surprisingly, they discovered that different length intakes produce different results based on their resonant frequencies.
A Short Ram is liable to produce the best HP up high in the rev range, but the trade-off is less HP and torque down low, and lost torque in the upper range as well.

They also discovered the CAI produces the best torque characteristics while also improving HP, but not as much as the SRI.

The stock box was the best of both worlds. It"s medium length producing the best combination of HP and torque for every day driving on the street, but is also a trade off in max HP and bottom end torque. They claim this could be improved upon significantly if the air/fuel mixture was leaned out. That the stock, SAFE fuel map settings ran the car richer than is good for producing the best power and mileage.

In fact, they also claimed that one of the most significant things about an aftermarket intake was that it fooled the MAF sensor into thinking that less air was passing through it and therefore causing the PCM/ECU to trim the mixture.

Isn"t that interesting? We are all spending our hard earned dollars (me included,) up to $500 for the more costly ones, primarily just to lean out the mixture slightly and modify (tune, if you will) resonant frequency.
Add to that just how small the actual improvemnents are and I have to ask, is it really worth it?
 
They were testing a WRX. A turbocharged car with a MAP sensor.

Putting an intake on a turbocharged car with a MAP sensor often gives conflicting results, because of the way air is metered. Some modern cars which are programmed to maintain absolute boost pressure using a MAP sensor will gain absolutely zilch with an intake without extensive reprogramming.

More air is ALWAYS good. It just depends on whether your car knows what to do with this air when it gets it. Same goes for any breathing (intake or exhaust) mod, actually. I've seen magazine articles giving conflicting results for simple mods, lately... simply because the stock ECU expects a certain amount of boost and manifold pressure, and no matter what mods you do, it will maintain that boost to give out exactly the same horsepower. There was an article regarding the Mazdaspeed Protege a while back, I think, that showed no power difference for a bigger exhaust. And early tests of 350Zs showed NO gain (or statistically insignificant gains) for intake and exhaust mods.

Which is what makes ECU tuning or even standalone boxes even more important, nowadays, no matter what kind of engine you have.

An intake on our naturally-aspirated cars, however, works well, from what we've seen on the dyno, but results can vary based on MAF sensor placement... there is some truth to the fact that intakes will change fuel trims, even if you're not changing the diameter of the pipe where the sensor is placed. We found an extra 5 hp from moving the intake cone further away from the MAF! I had a six inch stainless tube going from the MAF to the cone. My tuner buddy took it off and o-ringed the cone straight to the MAF body, like most guys with short-rams do, in search of more high-end hp, and the car lost 5 ponies all up and down the range. We put the tube back and the power came back. This difference held up even after dyno-tuning. It's mind-boggling to think an extra 6 inches between a cone filter and a small, charged wire sensor coud do so much. (boom07)

A CAI is the best, really... long tube for extra torque and cold air for more top-end, but for some people, it's just not practical.

---

Oh, as a side note... many aftermarket intakes for the WRX replace the stock MAF sensor mount with one on a stainless tube... this is just plain stupid... some of these tubes are the incorrect diameter, and some are smaller, causing the car to go rich, but others are bigger, causing the car to lean out, as they've mentioned. I've heard of one engine blowing because of an incorrectly sized tube.

Incidentally, it was a WRX. Maybe the guy bought one of those intakes they tested.

That's why it's best to keep the stock MAF sensor mount, unless you have some ability to do fuel tuning. If you're going standalone, you can dump it for a MAP sensor and remove one of the biggest intake restrictions, allowing you more options for intake tuning... I think Lordworm is the guy to talk to about intakes, though...
 
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I have that issue of SCC (my fav car mag). On my "3" I have ran an AEM CAI and right now I an running an INJEN CAI,and I have found from the butt dyno the INJEN does the job much better, plus less issues in the wet. I read somewhere that the 3's stock intake is very restrictive, so I guess anything would be an improvement.
 
I have that issue of SCC (my fav car mag). On my "3" I have ran an AEM CAI and right now I an running an INJEN CAI,and I have found from the butt dyno the INJEN does the job much better, plus less issues in the wet. I read somewhere that the 3's stock intake is very restrictive, so I guess anything would be an improvement.

Yeah, too bad it's going away. I liked it too.

I am running the Mazdaspeed/AEM am while it is OK, I wondered about others and what the differences might be? The Injen is a little pricey to me, but if the SCC article on the WRX is any indication, it might be the best overall choice. Then again, they were kind of comparing apples to oranges.
If they had tested several CAI's as well as several SRI's against the OE box, it would have been generally more telling, I think.
As far as being restrictive is concerned, they say that about all the OE airboxes... especially those trying to sell you one of their intakes. I"m a little skeptical about just how "restrictive" they are. I know AM intakes "help," but how much? The NA 3 is said to only gain a few hp and since they are tuned to work best at a particular frequency (static tuning) it might be in an rpm range that is not where you normally drive the car in, therefore, it may not make any difference at all in normal day-to-day driving for most people. Are they really worth the +/-$200-$400 some people pay for them?

That"s why I passed this on here.
 
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