Remote issues

[JTF]

How about resetting the key fob by removing the battery for a little while, then reinstalling it? Might be worth a try.

 

[slavrenz]

How about resetting the key fob by removing the battery for a little while, then reinstalling it? Might be worth a try.

I'll give it a shot. Couldn't hurt.

 

[Ride92]

I would maybe try new key fobs if removing the batteries doesn't work. Ebay is the place for those.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

The fob isn't the problem, something's unplugged in the car. The car is responding to all the commands from the fob (as indicated by the lights blinking), it just can't get the signal out to the lock actuators. A wiring diagram would better help us understand the problem but I can't find one for the keyless entry system.

 

[slavrenz]

The fob isn't the problem, something's unplugged in the car. The car is responding to all the commands from the fob (as indicated by the lights blinking), it just can't get the signal out to the lock actuators. A wiring diagram would better help us understand the problem but I can't find one for the keyless entry system.

And just like nothing happened, everything is working normally again. That's the most frustrating thing for me - it will randomly start working again perfectly for a few months, and then quit again.

I agree with you that there's something going on with the door lock actuators (maybe a bad power door lock module - it's located under the steering wheel). I just haven't had the time or inclination to break out my DMM and start testing circuits.

 

[JTF]

And just like nothing happened, everything is working normally again.

Good stuff! Glad to hear it (even though you don't predict this is 'here to stay'). It will be interesting to see who's remote stops functioning properly first.

 

[slavrenz]

Good stuff! Glad to hear it (even though you don't predict this is 'here to stay'). It will be interesting to see who's remote stops functioning properly first.

Lol, the race is on! Yeah, I can guarantee it won't last, as it does this like a cycle (6 months working, 1 month not, 6 months working, etc....)

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Yes, all doors lock/unlock when I use the driver's door lock with my key. Also, I am turning the key all the way to "on" as I try to reprogram this.

This is exactly what is happening with mine:

1. When pressing "lock" on either one of my remotes, the lights flash properly, but none of the locks do anything. Pressing "lock" a second time will cause the horn to honk twice as it should as well, but the doors still do not lock.

2. When pressing "unlock" once, the driver's side door should unlock. However, this does not happen for me (although the lights still flash as they should). Pressing "unlock" a second time unlocks all of the doors properly.

3. The panic button works fine.

I replaced my keyless entry module with a salvage yard unit a few months ago, thinking that this could be the problem. I did the reprogramming then as well, and even then, I had to do the key cycling step about 10 times before it would work properly.

I'm at the end of my rope with this. I've checked all applicable fuses, and everything looks fine.

I know what's wrong

One of the two wires coming from the keyless entry module is loose/failing. I can't tell you what color it is, but I know it's the wire connected to pin O on connector that plugs into the keyless entry module.

There are two singal wires that go from the keyless entry module to the "door lock control module". They are both always pulled up to 5V and they are either brought down to 0V or 2.5V depending on what what signal needs to be sent. The first wire (pin K) only communicates one message, when it's brought down to 0V, that tells the "door lock control module" to unlock all the doors. The second wire (pin O) causes the driver's door to be unlocked when brought down to 2.5V and causes all the doors to be locked when brought down to 0V.

If you were to disconnect that second wire, it would cause all the problems you describe. See the service manual starting on page 09-14-8 for more details

 

[slavrenz]

I know what's wrong

One of the two wires coming from the keyless entry module is loose/failing. I can't tell you what color it is, but I know it's the wire connected to pin O on connector that plugs into the keyless entry module.

There are two singal wires that go from the keyless entry module to the "door lock control module". They are both always pulled up to 5V and they are either brought down to 0V or 2.5V depending on what what signal needs to be sent. The first wire (pin K) only communicates one message, when it's brought down to 0V, that tells the "door lock control module" to unlock all the doors. The second wire (pin O) causes the driver's door to be unlocked when brought down to 2.5V and causes all the doors to be locked when brought down to 0V.

If you were to disconnect that second wire, it would cause all the problems you describe. See the service manual starting on page 09-14-8 for more details

Thanks a lot for looking into this - I'm not very proficient with wiring, so I've been sort of stumbling through the wiring diagrams trying to figure things out.

I will definitely check this wire out when I get off of work today, and report back.

 

[Dir1984]

I just tried it and it worked. I had been trying the lock on the door and not the button on the sill.

Thanks a bunch

 

[Swedebits]

Both my wife's two remotes gave up a long time ago and for her birthday I wanted to get them fixed for her. Called the dealer: They wanted $68 for the part and $96 for programming! Decided to try the internet, and found this thread. Worked like a charm for the first remote. Now I just need to pick up a CR2025 battery for the second remote, which I guess she threw away thinking that was the problem.

Internet 1 -- Quasi-monopolistic dealerships 0

Thank you!!!

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

Internet 1 -- Quasi-monopolistic dealerships 0

More like.........Internet 1 buzzillion -- Quasi-monopolistic-limpdick-moneygrubbin dealerships 0