Rear Wheel Bearing Replacemtn, Is DIY possible?

[Will_V]

Hi,

My 2008 CX-9 needs a new rear wheel bearing. My front passenger side got replaced last year at the dealer costs me almost $600. Now they want the same amount for the rear. I changed wheel bearings befor but not this vehicle. I'm thinking the other wheel bearings on this truck will definitely fail in the near future, why not try to find out and DIY. If you DIY, you can buy a better quality after market wheel bearing not the one from Ford part bin that you get from the dealer.
So, if you have done it or tried hard but failed to complete the job please let me know. I will open it up tomorrow and see wheel hub assembly.

By the way, I just changed all the rotors that I bought from Max. They are drilled rotors. I have to say that they look great on the truck and work as well as the OEM rotors if not better. Well, if you live in the States you are considered lucky because there are so many good parts available. Up here only a hand full. We can buy from the US but pay double.

Any comment on the wheel bearing is appreciated.

Thanks,
Will

 

[bumparker]

You actually replace the entire sealed assembly (wheel hub). If you can replace rotors you can replace the hubs. They are attached with 4 bolts and have a wire to connect to the ABS. I have not done this on my CX-9 but I have done it on Fords (similar). I looked at Rockauto and the prices for a good quality rear hub (fwd) are about $80/ea.

It is a DIY job for sure IMO.

 

[jk240sx]

Yup. It's a hub/bearing assembly. Quick internet search show OEM assembly in the $225-275 range. It's very DIY, bolt-on part. just hand tools and your time.

 

[10Molavi]

As mentioned, easy DIY, similar to my Caravan. When I did it on the Caravan, I watched some youtube videos. I used the autozone loaner program for a breaker bar/axle socket and torque wrench. First side took 20 Minutes and 2nd one 15. (the van was given a diagnosis of final drivetrain failure, but I wanted to be sure, and the bearings fixed the problem.

 

[Will_V]

I found these two items from The Wrench Monkey with FREE shipping. But I don't know if SKF bearing worth anoth $59. Please advise.

* TIMKEN HA590056 $200.69
* SKF BR930770 $259.68

 

[bumparker]

I think you should check out www.rockauto.com. The Raybestos Professional Grade rear hubs are about $88 plus ship. They have a lifetime warranty and from reputable manufacturer. I've used their parts in the past without any issues.

 

[Will_V]

Thanks for the info.
Last weekend I took a look at the four bolts that hold the bearing hub assembly to the metal frame, it looks like I will have to take a lot of parts off before I can have the enough room to loose those bolts. Does anyone know the best way to loose these bolts?

Thanks

 

[bumparker]

I've done this on Ford vehicles which should be similar:
1. Remove the wheel
2. Remove the caliper and tie it up out of the way
3. Remove the rotor
4. Disconnect the wire connected to the hub

At this point you should have access to the 4 bolts that hold the hub. You'll likely need a 1/2 in drive socket for whatever size the bolts are (likely 17mm, 19mm or 21mm) and a breaker bar. Once you break the bolts loose you can remove them with your fingers. You may have to rock the hub back and forth to break it loose, there may be a rubber seal holding it in place (or tap it from the backside with a hammer. The installation is the reverse, just note on the hub where the wire is located and clock the new hub to the same position. It is basically the same work as a brake job with one extra step. Put the rotor back on and reinstall the caliper and the wheel. You should be able to do the job in 45 minutes if you have the right tools on hand.

 

[Groundgrubs]

I too, have to replace the right rear hub bearing. I was quoted $450-$500 for the job. They say $250 for part and $250 for labor. I got the part from Mazda Parts for $195. I can get to the 4 Torx with a set off Harbor Freight "long Nose" Torx. The problem is I can't get the 32mm Axle nut off. I tried penetrating oil, and MAP torch heating it up. 24" breaker Bar, and another 20" pipe and no movement at all.

Any Suggestions....

 

[Scott91370]

Could it be reverse thread? I wouldn't think, but anything is possible.

But I can tell you I had one in a Ram that took a 48" bar with me jumping on it (150lbs) to break free so they aren't always fun.

 

[Groundgrubs]

I thought about reverse thread - but don't want to try - and mess up the shaft. Anybody Know?

 

[eskimo0101]

I've replaced a lot of hubs and I've never seen a reverse thread axle nut. I'm sure it's just really on there and without a good impact wrench to knock it off you're just going to have to muscle it with a breaker and cheater pipe. I see you're in Illinois, so that's about 7 years of salty corrosion helping hold that nut in place.

 

[Groundgrubs]

OK Got it loose - Counter-Clockwise normal removal, 1,250lbs Mac Impact Wrench. BUT, the 55 Torx that hold it on are also stuck. I don't have a lift to get enough torque on them and have thrown in the towel. $180 labor from independent, Mazda quoted $352 labor only. Got part at Mazda for $195. Good luck to all.

 

[Scott91370]

Glad you got it do, stinks you had to have someone else do it but you're not alone. I've also had to take jobs in for similar reasons

 

[Groundgrubs]

Now the other side!!!

Yep eventually I knew the other side would need it.
Got part for $65 amazon
found local shop to do labor only $165

Great deal and once repaired its time for this one to sell...

None of the kids want it, and I was only keeping for winter driver.