I'll have to wait and see with the money situation coming up in the next couple weeks.
Rally2003's Build Thread
- Thread starter rally2003
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I'll have to wait and see with the money situation coming up in the next couple weeks.
Well there is still problems with the PS even after new lines and pumps. Stumpted really. I had a few people suggest the rack being bad, but usually the rack isn't bad unless it is leaking. All it does is flows fluid from one side into the other side. The pump is what does all of the work. I'm about to ditch it all and run a EPS from a MR2. I'm still looking into which model MR2 I want to get one from. I think I've read close to 10+ atticles and threads on MR2 EPS conversions in different cars. The car still ran great last Sunday.
On a side note I had to put the 600lbs spring back on the front so I could run my 255's without rubbinig, because the spring perches are seized up on the sleeves for the coilovers. I even took the whole coilover unit out and dissassembled the whole unit, applied heat to the perch, and sprayed the s*** out of it with WD40 and still nothing. I'll have to fix that issue before I can lower the car any lower for next year.
On a side note I had to put the 600lbs spring back on the front so I could run my 255's without rubbinig, because the spring perches are seized up on the sleeves for the coilovers. I even took the whole coilover unit out and dissassembled the whole unit, applied heat to the perch, and sprayed the s*** out of it with WD40 and still nothing. I'll have to fix that issue before I can lower the car any lower for next year.
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- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
I had that issue with one of mine :/ i ended up cutting it off and buying a new one -_-
I was thinking the same, but I need to contact AWR before I do that to see if they still have them.
Well, there's more to it than just removing the belt. You could swap in a manual rack from a 323. Or remove the fluid from the rack and grease it up and cap everything off. I looked into it for the P6 but never followed through. Seems like an easier/better option than adding more parts that you're just going to end up breaking. Because that's what you do, break power steering pumps.
Perro del Sol
Member
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- 2003 MSP, Spicy Orange, 2004 Mazda 6 Hatch, 2004 Mazda 6 Wagon
Corey's, new name is "Pumper"
I'll have to look into it. If I do go manual rack I'll have to get some arms like Dax.
That sounds kinds gay lol, no homo.
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- aggressive auto culture
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Buy one, or even two, and never look back. Works perfect on all coils/collars.
Seriously. Saved me $400.
Honestly I'd look into depowering your stock steering rack before replacing it with a manual one. Manual steering racks are often "slower" meaning more turns to lock, which I'd think would not be ideal for autox. I recall ever seeing any Protege power steering depower how-to's but it's pretty popular in the Miata and RX-7 communities. Basically, you take the entire rack apart, remove all the internal seals, close all the ports, weld up the pinion hear, and put everything back together.
Evan's P6 build thread had some info in it, but you'd probably have to dig a bit to find it.
I guess I can try it this way since it's FREE
I love free.I did find a bunch of info about depowering a Miata rack, but I'm sure it can't be much different.
I'll probably post this on the first page incase for easy finding and incase anyone else wants to do the same. Looks pretty easy to follow.
http://flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=1
