Rail Dust On White Mazda5

[MarkVII88]

Does anyone else on this forum have a white or light colored Mazda5 with a recurring rail dust rust particle issue? I got my white 2012 in October 2012 and I first noticed the "rail dust" issue in early spring 2013. I took care of this issue last spring with a combination of Iron-x solution from autogeek.net followed by a full clay bar treatment after a thorough washing. I was under the impression, from what I've read, that my rail dust issue was a function of the initial transport of my car from the port to the dealer via truck or train (rail). But I noticed this winter while giving the car a few quick washes to get the snow and salt off that the same type of rust spots have returned. I'm not worried about this being an issue with the car itself, but I wasn't expecting to see the same little tiny rust spots again. This isn't the first white car I've owned, but it's certainly the first white car on which I've seen anything like this rail dust. Since it's surfaced again I can only surmise that the primary source of the rail dust I'm seeing this winter must be from my own brake rotors and pads. Has anyone else seen this on their white or light colored Mazda5? The link below is a good thread on the Mazda3 forum that talks about rail dust and taking care of it. I was planning on using the clay bar again this spring on the car but I hate the thought that I'm going to be seeing this rail dust every single year. And with only about 17,000 miles on the car so-far the brakes are in no way worn enough to justify replacing.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123794085-White-Paint-and-Orange-Rust-Spots-What-did-you-do

 

[markuszoom5]

Me tooooo.....

Does anyone else on this forum have a white or light colored Mazda5 with a recurring rail dust rust particle issue? I got my white 2012 in October 2012 and I first noticed the "rail dust" issue in early spring 2013. I took care of this issue last spring with a combination of Iron-x solution from autogeek.net followed by a full clay bar treatment after a thorough washing. I was under the impression, from what I've read, that my rail dust issue was a function of the initial transport of my car from the port to the dealer via truck or train (rail). But I noticed this winter while giving the car a few quick washes to get the snow and salt off that the same type of rust spots have returned. I'm not worried about this being an issue with the car itself, but I wasn't expecting to see the same little tiny rust spots again. This isn't the first white car I've owned, but it's certainly the first white car on which I've seen anything like this rail dust. Since it's surfaced again I can only surmise that the primary source of the rail dust I'm seeing this winter must be from my own brake rotors and pads. Has anyone else seen this on their white or light colored Mazda5? The link below is a good thread on the Mazda3 forum that talks about rail dust and taking care of it. I was planning on using the clay bar again this spring on the car but I hate the thought that I'm going to be seeing this rail dust every single year. And with only about 17,000 miles on the car so-far the brakes are in no way worn enough to justify replacing.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123794085-White-Paint-and-Orange-Rust-Spots-What-did-you-do

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Oh no, you are not the only one. It only gets worse. it's pieces of metal shavings, whether it's from brake dust, salt, or other things, it just gets worse. I will never buy a white car ever again. Other cars have it but you can't see it. Clay bar will not get it out, you can rub for ever. I was able to remove it well with Turtle Wax Liquid Clay bar which I stocked up on 3 bottles from big lots, but after 3 years used it all up. Now it's like $25 on ebay, because for some reason they don't make it any more. Maybe it did not sell I don't know. https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
I found some cleaner wax for white cars and will try it in the spring. Otherwise I don't care anymore, it's a losing battle. Good luck.

 

[MarkVII88]

Markuszoom5. Thanks for the solidarity. Like I said, I'm surprised with this Mazda5 and the rail dust since this is the 3rd white car I've had in the Northeast in my lifetime. 1998 Saturn SL2, 1999 Nissan Maxima both white. And I notice you're from Syracuse. I'm originally from Oneida.

 

[Silentnoise713]

Not that this helps any but "they don't make'em like they use too". The Max had a tricoat pearl finish and was beautiful as well as durable. Don't know about the Saturn but other than plastic panels(?). Mazda is notorious for cheap thin paint on all cars. Keep in mind this is Mazda of the yesteryear. I have hopes new Mazda will be better.

+1 to Markszoom5, it is a loosing battle. Clay bar (really it is the compound that you use with the bar) did help me clean it but it comes back. I'm very bad at waxing but I do think a good 3 step wax job with a quality wax can prevent/prolong the occurance. I'm of the mind set that a car should work me, not the other way around so I just use it.

 

[MAZDASPEED MX5]

Wash, claybar, wash, polish, wax.

 

[MR6]

Thats called rail dust?! I thought it was tree sap. I use mr clean magic eraser. Never woulda thought to use a kitchen tool to wash a car until i saw my wife doing it one day. It looked to me like she was frantically rubbing car with her bare hand lol. Now i keep a pail of them in the garage. A lil spray on wax and the magic eraser eats that stuff up with no probs. I use it for road tar and just about anything soap misses. Truly is magic. I swear its gotta be some area 51 left over.

 

[sac02]

... I use mr clean magic eraser. ...

Eeek!

The hobby detailer in me just had a minor heart attack! It cleans so well because it is abrasive! It is called Melamine foam:

From Wikipedia: "In the early 21st century it was discovered that melamine foam was an effective abrasive cleaner.[2] The open-cell foam is microporous and its polymeric substance is very hard, so that when used for cleaning it works like extremely fine sandpaper, getting into tiny grooves and pits in the object being cleaned. On a larger scale the material feels soft. Because the reticulated foam bubbles interconnect, its structure is a 3D network of very hard strands, when compared to the array of separate bubbles in a material such as expanded polystyrene foam (for example, Styrofoam)."

If you feel you must use the magic eraser, you should really be following that with the full barrage of a rubbing compound, then swirl remover/polish, then pre-wax cleaner, and finally wax or sealant to repair what the magic eraser does. Though you do have white, the most forgiving color, that magic eraser is basically sanding (wetsanding) your paint with the equivalent of like 1500 grit (yes, that abrasive).

Wax may make it look OK in the short term, but you've still done damage to the paint that should be repaired for long term.

 

[MR6]

^ agreed. Which is why i keep it to very small regions. Any large areas covered with rail dust or tar wait until the summer Q-tip session

 

[MAZDASPEED MX5]

Avoid the Mr. Clean route...too abrasive.

 

[sac02]

^ agreed. Which is why i keep it to very small regions. Any large areas covered with rail dust or tar wait until the summer Q-tip session

I sometimes forget that some people don't have the opportunity to detail year-round, lol

 

[Silentnoise713]

I sometimes forget that some people don't have the opportunity to detail year-round, lol

LOL, I wax maybe once every 2-3 years . I’ve been changing cars every 3-4 years and honestly can’t remember when was the last time I touch my orbital! But I do "try" to wash it once a month with my trusty Walmart wash mop. (I'm pretty bad about upkeep).