Radical break in? yes or no

I wonder why the factory does not recommend that, if it's a better way. Doesn't the factory "know" that the manufacturing is better now and there is no need to baby the car?

The part of the factory break in that is very similar to this is how they reccomend varying the rpms. This procedure just takes factory break in to the extremes.
 
I don't think it matters anymore. I've broken engines in hard and broken them in soft. I've also gone somewhere in between. I change my oil early on, and at regular intervals and with the 100s of 1000s of miles I've driven I've never had a motor let go save for one...and that was because I was determined to get a motor with a 6200 redline to 7 grand. :) It got there, just at the expense of the top end.
 
I was (still am) in the same controversy on how to break in my MS3. I haven't been able to read the manual on how to break her in, but I've seen exerts online... I've only driven my car twice (then left on travel) and though I somewhat tried to do what that article said, I still held back in fear... I actually ended up driving the car exactly like that manual said...

Its a great compromise between the two theories of hard vs soft break-ins...
 
it looks like the majority of what he had to say dealt with the first 20 miles, in that case, apparently I had a rough break-in as I drove my car hard on the test drive. After that and the drive home (still couldn't keep my foot out of it, lol) I settle in to drive her easy.
 
I think the way the engines are built today, you've pretty much got it broke-in before it leaves the shipping dock.

However, the rest of the car is still a newbie, and as such, I'd be gentle here and there on it, like braking (like all new brakes), and the clutch and so on.
 
it looks like the majority of what he had to say dealt with the first 20 miles, in that case, apparently I had a rough break-in as I drove my car hard on the test drive. After that and the drive home (still couldn't keep my foot out of it, lol) I settle in to drive her easy.

Yes it is the very first miles that the engine breaks in so you have to do it right away and make sure to get a car with less than like 10 miles on it.
 
I drove my Speed3 hard right off the lot and I have with all my new cars.. I look at it this way, who care's I have warranty and I'm leasing it... I don't have enough will power to drive it light, not that I believe it would make a difference anyways...
 
that website has been discussed a few times on here already...no conclusion on what the best method is yet

Yea I figured it must have come up before this article seems to have found it's way around the net. As long as it is not a total scam I would like to try it since it sounds logical.
I drove my Speed3 hard right off the lot and I have with all my new cars.. I look at it this way, who care's I have warranty and I'm leasing it... I don't have enough will power to drive it light, not that I believe it would make a difference anyways...

So you are saying you followed the article then basically.
 
If you want to keep the car a long time, such as >100,000 miles, what does common sense tell you? I trust Cobb Tuning, who has been tuning cars for years with an amazing reputation, more than "mototuneusa", whom I've never heard of...much less trust what they have to say about how to break in my car. Cobb recommends a 600 mile break in period, and so does your owner's manual. As for my common sense remark, does it sound like a good idea to go flat-out when every owner's manual and dealer for every car I've ever seen says not to? I don't think the extra 2 horsepower is worth questionable reliability in the future.
 
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If you want to keep the car a long time, such as >100,000 miles, what does common sense tell you? I trust Cobb Tuning, who has been tuning cars for years with an amazing reputation, more than "mototuneusa", whom I've never heard of...much less trust what they have to say about how to break in my car. Cobb recommends a 600 mile break in period, and so does your owner's manual. As for my common sense remark, does it sound like a good idea to go flat-out when every owner's manual and dealer for every car I've ever seen says not to? I don't think the extra 2 horsepower is worth questionable reliability in the future.

While I remain scepitcal of "mototune usa" I have to say his logic sounds correct. Breaking in this way should help future reliability as well as hp.
 
I don't think it matters anymore. I've broken engines in hard and broken them in soft. I've also gone somewhere in between. I change my oil early on, and at regular intervals and with the 100s of 1000s of miles I've driven I've never had a motor let go save for one...and that was because I was determined to get a motor with a 6200 redline to 7 grand. :) It got there, just at the expense of the top end.

+1. Break it in however you feel like it, these days it's as much for the driver to get used to the car as it is for the car's parts to "wear in".
 
If you want to keep the car a long time, such as >100,000 miles, what does common sense tell you? I trust Cobb Tuning, who has been tuning cars for years with an amazing reputation, more than "mototuneusa", whom I've never heard of...much less trust what they have to say about how to break in my car. Cobb recommends a 600 mile break in period, and so does your owner's manual. As for my common sense remark, does it sound like a good idea to go flat-out when every owner's manual and dealer for every car I've ever seen says not to? I don't think the extra 2 horsepower is worth questionable reliability in the future.

x2
 
I put 600 easier miles on it for the clutch's sake, then took it to the drag strip.

Thats the way to do it.

This break in doesn't require dropping the clutch at all. It really should not be hard on the clutch at all.
 

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