Questions:Break in,blow off,recalls

the Cobb SRI for sure for intake, because the MS CAI is off the market because of problems... so i wouldnt even trust it when it comes back out.

as for break in, running through the gears staying below 5k rpm is a good thing to do, dont worry about off ramps and such, but push it hard to the 5k rpm. you want to break it in how you will be driving it, (up to 5k rpm) not babying it too much. this is what one of the engineers at Cobb told me when i e-mailed him and asked him how i should break it in (after i threw in the SRI)
 
I put a fatty K&N on my mountaineer back in the day and it was easy.
Will then Cobb pretty much drop in? Is it pretty easy to remove the stock box and such?
 
I put a fatty K&N on my mountaineer back in the day and it was easy.
Will then Cobb pretty much drop in? Is it pretty easy to remove the stock box and such?

oh yeah the stock box comes out really easy. if youre putting in a short ram intake, the install will be really easy. CAI is a little trickier, but still not too bad
 
You really shouldn't ever have to go over 6k unless you have some type of EMS. The ecu closes the throttle and cuts boost started at 5500 rpm. Any shifting over 6k and you are aren't maximizing power.
 
Injen makes a sweet tested CAI at a decent price and claims a few more horse and torque than the COBB. I would go bigger/harder exchange tubing before a new Blow off and then an exhaust or at least eliminate your restictors.
Anyone out there seen that new Ram air intake?

Break in by the manual is 600 miles. First oil change in 5k. Your dealer sucks if they are letting people test drive the MS3's. Mine had 3 miles on it when I drove it into the dealership for its presale inspection...
 
Mine had 22 miles on it when I got it Tuesday. I've been shifting at 3k and driving between 55-60-55 on the highway to work in 6th gear. I've babied her though so far, but I'll start going up to 4k slowly. . .been there 2 times already and it's fun!
 
just wait till you turn the traction control off, go easy in first, then nail it through second and third gears....my advice...HANG ON!
 
Always Always use this method

honestly, the only thing you really have to worry about for the break in procedure is make sure you get your engine and transmission up to temp before you do anything interesting. as jbiird said, there's a number of differing philosophies behind breaking in engines, but one thing is always constant: bring the engine/trannie up to temp before you beat on it!

as far as bringing the engine up to temp, don't just idle it for 5 min...drive it carefully around until the temp is right. this way, you warm up the trannie as well and avoid idling for long periods of time. idling is actually not the best thing in the world for your engine because it allows water vapor to build up in your exhaust system.

if you want to take the conservative route, break it in like mazda recommends in the manual: vary your RPMs and go through all the gears. it's not just varying your speed on the highway, because that means you're only in 5th or 6th gears...make sure you get 1st-4th gears too!

This is the best protection you can give a Turbo car every time you drive. Sacrilicious is hitting the nail with ten pound sledgehammer.
 
I'm breaking mine in carefully as I've done with many new ones in the past. I don't usually buy new, but I also wasn't going to buy a used turbo from anybody. Does anyone recommend doing the first oil change at 1k or 3K, instead of 7,500? I'll NEVER wait that long! Dino oil 'til 6K or so, then synthetic changed every 5K, probably.
 
for beak in do what your doin till about 1000 miles, As for the intake i would say Cobb or mazdaspeed to avoid warrenty issues, BOV i run the HKS on VTA sounds great and no driveability or running issues at all. Sure it drives a little differently then stock but its all about adaptability, and i actually like the way it runs now better.

i hear ya i love it VTA
 
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