Q for MSP FMIC owners

Heathen23

I don't see no ears
:
MS Protege and Mazdaspeed 3
This question is for all of the msp owners with a FMIC kit and the stock radiator.

All of the fmic kits available block the lower portion of our already small radiator. Besides adding a larger radiator (which can only be done with the Ion kit) there isn't much of a remedy for this problem.

So the question is; how many of you are having issues with running too hot as a result of blocking the radiator?

The wagner and Hiboost kits do not allow for a larger radiator but I am not interested in buying from Ion. So I just want to hear if anyone has any ideas, comments, or input on how to deal with this issue (or if it really is an issue at all).
 
boostisgood said:
I never had an issue with heat with my FMIC in the car.
Did you happen to have a way to monitor temps beside the play-skool stock temp gauge? btw thanks for the reply!
 
I have no issues with heat and the iON kit. I only have the stock gauge, but I can feel the heat after a hard run, and it is not much different than the stock setup. I also have a vented hood though, and I'm sure that helps.
 
505zoom said:
I have no issues with heat and the iON kit. I only have the stock gauge, but I can feel the heat after a hard run, and it is not much different than the stock setup. I also have a vented hood though, and I'm sure that helps.
Well, the good news on that kit is that if you were experiencing any overheating issues you could put in a larger radiator (i.e. p5 rad). I'm only a little concerned about this issue because if you remember back to one of the earlier testers (turboge) had this issue of running hot as a result of the fmic. Much like you 505 the temps during the warm season are extremely high here.

Can either of you share your experience with the fmic since the weather has begun to heat up. Is the car such a dog? Here in NC we get brutal humidity and from day one of the heat the car feels like it's been neutered. I'm realize the fmic provides the extra hp but does the function result in a greater everyday consistancy to driving?

Again, thanks for the replies. I'm ready to take the plunge I just want to hear some owners input on if it's worth it and the risks involved. (RTM) doing the homework ya know
 
I think turboge is the only member that has actual data associated with the FMIC effect on water temps. You'll have to search the threads for that. He was running the iON setup. Also, as you already mentioned, the stock gauge is essentially meaningless for tracking water temps.

My practical 'street' experience is that the fan cycles far more than it did prior to the FMIC install. I also had an incident of overtemp (stock gauge) on the track last summer at 105+ ambient temps. I attribute this to the FMIC blocking flow.

I am scheduled to receive the upgraded radiator/fan combo from AWR (www.awrracing.com) this Wednesday. I'll let you know how it goes!

Peace...(hippy)
 
CRDMS1 said:
I think turboge is the only member that has actual data associated with the FMIC effect on water temps. You'll have to search the threads for that. He was running the iON setup. Also, as you already mentioned, the stock gauge is essentially meaningless for tracking water temps.

My practical 'street' experience is that the fan cycles far more than it did prior to the FMIC install. I also had an incident of overtemp (stock gauge) on the track last summer at 105+ ambient temps. I attribute this to the FMIC blocking flow.

I am scheduled to receive the upgraded radiator/fan combo from AWR (www.awrracing.com) this Wednesday. I'll let you know how it goes!

Peace...(hippy)
Yeah, I looked over his posts. It's a bit scattered because he left the project a bit unfinished or unreported.

I assume you are running the ion kit so you can use a full length radiator from AWR? That is a pretty easy project (besides the cost) to do with the ion kit. With other kits running a wider rad isn't an option and that is my concern:( Thanks again for the feedback guys(cool)
 
will a coolant addent and a higher pressure radiotor cap not help out? that seems like the most inexpensive fix to me. i mean granted its not going to be as effective as buyinga new radiator, but it is alot better than doing nothing. also removing the weater stripping is post to help.
 
When mounting the FMIC try to keep it as far foreward, away from the rad as possible if you are worried about heat transfer from the FMIC to the Rad.
 
Heathen23 said:
Yeah, I looked over his posts. It's a bit scattered because he left the project a bit unfinished or unreported.

I assume you are running the ion kit so you can use a full length radiator from AWR? That is a pretty easy project (besides the cost) to do with the ion kit. With other kits running a wider rad isn't an option and that is my concern:( Thanks again for the feedback guys(cool)
I've been running the iON CAI/FMIC since last summer. I'm installing the full length radiator and fan assembly from AWR only because I run the car on the track. I don't think it's necessary for street driving or drag racing.

boostisgood said:
I never had an issue with heat with my FMIC in the car.
I don't think you will notice anything on the stock gauge unless you are running the engine hard for longer durations. My gauge didn't start climbing past 'normal' until the 15-minute mark (or so) of a lapping session in 105F+ heat.

Peace...(hippy)
 
Brian MP5T said:
When mounting the FMIC try to keep it as far foreward, away from the rad as possible if you are worried about heat transfer from the FMIC to the Rad.
My feeling is that it's an airflow issue (resriction in the lower grill opening) as opposed to heat transfer.

Peace...(hippy)
 
CRDMS1 said:
I've been running the iON CAI/FMIC since last summer. I'm installing the full length radiator and fan assembly from AWR only because I run the car on the track. I don't think it's necessary for street driving or drag racing.


I don't think you will notice anything on the stock gauge unless you are running the engine hard for longer durations. My gauge didn't start climbing past 'normal' until the 15-minute mark (or so) of a lapping session in 105F+ heat.

Peace...(hippy)
Yeah I do not plan on running laps in 105* heat anytime soon because we almost never break 100* here. It is brutally humid from mid June to mid september but tripple didgets are an extreme rarity. But it's a bit scary to think that you got the stock gauge to rise considering it basically never budges.

Anybody have input on the tangeable increase in cooling and/or driveability as compared to stock? I'm just looking for an open discussion on the cooling issue along with owners experience on the improvement as the dog days of summer approach quickly.
 
CRDMS1 said:
My feeling is that it's an airflow issue (resriction in the lower grill opening) as opposed to heat transfer.

Peace...(hippy)
Correct-o-mundo. You are somewhat blocking an already blocked and small radiator in a car that inherently runs hot.
 
Heathen23 said:
Yeah I do not plan on running laps in 105* heat anytime soon because we almost never break 100* here. It is brutally humid from mid June to mid september but tripple didgets are an extreme rarity. But it's a bit scary to think that you got the stock gauge to rise considering it basically never budges.

Anybody have input on the tangeable increase in cooling and/or driveability as compared to stock? I'm just looking for an open discussion on the cooling issue along with owners experience on the improvement as the dog days of summer approach quickly.
Sorry I don't have actual data to back up my claims, but I don't believe street or drag applications will experience significant cooling problems due to any of the FMIC kits. Your fans may run a bit more often and longer, but that's fine...as long as they turn off eventually :D

Your performance will suffer in the summer ambient temps and humidity, but that's just a normal fact of life. At least the FMIC will help stabilize the intake charge vs. the stock SMIC.

Peace...(hippy)
 
CRDMS1 said:
My feeling is that it's an airflow issue (resriction in the lower grill opening) as opposed to heat transfer.

Peace...(hippy)
I see, There is very little noticeble diference that I have noticed except that the fan cycles a bit sooner than it would normally at a light. But as I said... If there is more room between the FMIC and the Radiator the fan will draw from below and the top before it tried to draw through the FMIC... Just an idea... I have installed a switch that is driven from a relay that comes from the ignition position on the key...

It powers the positive lead to the primary fan. I can in essence override the thermostat that would turn the fan on with a switch. I use it when the turbo timer is running. So for the 30sec-1min that the car runs without a key...The fan is running as well. It's great for traffic jams and other times that you might want the fans on... After hammering 10 Psi of boost, just to be stopped at a red light for 2 Min...
 
Brian MP5T said:
I see, There is very little noticeble diference that I have noticed except that the fan cycles a bit sooner than it would normally at a light. But as I said... If there is more room between the FMIC and the Radiator the fan will draw from below and the top before it tried to draw through the FMIC... Just an idea... I have installed a switch that is driven from a relay that comes from the ignition position on the key...

It powers the positive lead to the primary fan. I can in essence override the thermostat that would turn the fan on with a switch. I use it when the turbo timer is running. So for the 30sec-1min that the car runs without a key...The fan is running as well. It's great for traffic jams and other times that you might want the fans on... After hammering 10 Psi of boost, just to be stopped at a red light for 2 Min...
You still have the luxury of running a full length radiator which is a big advantage to manage this particular issue. Interesting set up though, I'm guessing I'd slack off and forget to cycle the fan on my own.
 
Heathen23 said:
Anybody have input on the tangeable increase in cooling and/or driveability as compared to stock? I'm just looking for an open discussion on the cooling issue along with owners experience on the improvement as the dog days of summer approach quickly.
bump0rs-


save me from this nc heat!
 
Heathen23 said:
You still have the luxury of running a full length radiator which is a big advantage to manage this particular issue. Interesting set up though, I'm guessing I'd slack off and forget to cycle the fan on my own.

It still comes on normally. I can simply force it to stay on... :)
 
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