PT-Performance Pump in

zx2man

Member
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2009 mazdaspeed 3
After waiting for quite some time...I was able to drive up to Covington an pick up my pump from John...After looking at my shiny new pump and alittle bs'ing about the 500+ whp Caliber srt and 600+ whp Srt4 in the driveway I drove back home to put my new pump in. Install went just fine ofcourse..only thing I was carious about was when I tighten up the sleeve nut there was still alittle thread left...but after checing and double checking to make sure things were lined up and threaded on perfectly..that nut wasnt going any further..so I guess thats normal...so once installed and all connections are checked. steps are as follows from John-

1. Charge fuel lines up 5-6 times via tuning car on,but not starting it.
2. Start car.
3. Let idle for 20 min.
4. drive car in all gears keeping rpm no higher than 4000 rpm for 100 miles.
5. Cdfp should now be properly broken in. Proceed with WOT pulls if you desire.

Notes: Its advised that you use something to monitor fuel psi while breaking the pump in. ie-Accessport,Dashawk ect.

So far I only have done the 20 min. idle and about 10 miles on pump..so far so good..will post further progress in near future.
 

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Glad to hear you got something from PtP at last. Makes me wonder how quick the turnaround on the core charge will be, given the massive delay getting the pumps out.

Let us know how EVERYTHING works out. I'll do the same...if I ever receive my internals from John.
 
Cool. I've heard nothing but good things back about the PTP pump/internals.

What are your thoughts so far?
 
Good so Far............But I installed it lastnight and only drove the car for short time. Once broken in well..Ill do some WOT pulls and monitor the fuel psi and give you guys a full report(usa)
 
Well...my internals finally arrived...from an order made on Nov. 4.

This is my Xmas break job so I am happy they are here in time for that.

Here's hoping all goes well with the disassembly and install.
 
UPDATE:

Ok I have now driven about 50-60 miles on pump. I decided to go past 4000 rpm..but not much..were talking 4500-5000...so not even close to redline. And I get fuel cut,cause the piston in the pump is sticking....this I hear is rather normal when trying to break this pump in..so dont even TRY above 4000 rpm to least 100 miles..I thought I could push it alittle more..but nope..but this is spose to be normal..once pump is broken in..will work just fine. Im just trying to give people everything that im experiencing...plus side is..that I was getting around 1900 psi when it wasnt sticking..so it has some great potential..just gotta be PATIENT!!!! hehe..which im so bad at :)...more to follow later.
 
I'm watching this thread real close as I've got the PTP internals on their way over to me! I've been babying my car for months now so I dont blow it up.... it'd be ironic that the thing that was meant to save my engine was what killed it in the end! :D
 
Light throttle/low boost is showing 1700+ even with the pump guts having only 66 kilometers on them. I haven't pushed beyond low boost (1 to 2 psi) as I am following the break in instructions that came with the pump guts to the letter.

Now my stock pump boosted to 1600+ under similar conditions, it only died off seriously fast over 5000 at WOT so, I can't confirm or deny improvements in that area as yet.

I don't expect the massive pressures some are seeing, like 1900+, because my engine is modified, inlet to DP/RP. Hence, it's using more fuel. I just need it to hold 1700 all the way to redline and I'll be happy. So far, it passes Mazda's test for stock pump function, race the engine at 60%+ load = 1669 psi.
 
Keep breaking it in Darth :)....Mine took longer than the 100 miles... I havnt done too many pulls yet..but after 300-400 miles..I have done a few to around 5500 rpm and so far so good :)...But sheez it took awhile to break that sucker in. That tolerances on that piston going through the sleeve is just super small..so yeah it likes to stick on ya for while..Yours might be different but it took mile few hundred miles. Anyways Ill post some actruly psi logshere soon..Just been alittle lazy last couple days haha.
 
DL some WOT pulls today, pressure above 5000 stays at 17-1800 psi. Car runs great. It was difficult to get WOT as it is only a couple above freezing here and I smack the boost cut like Bruce Lee giving me the 3" punch to my forehead. I had to keep feathering the throttle to stay under the cut.

The difference before and after is over 5K I was at 700 psi before, stuttering and banging like mad. Now it's 17-1800 and smooth as glass... until I smack the boost cut. It's now doing up high what my mods suggest it should do.

Very satisfied. The boost cut issue is temperature related and/or downpipe design related and has nothing to do with the pump guts. Pump guts deliver on their promises, so far.
 
Great news. Thanks guys for being the test mules on this forum for the complete pump and the internals install. I may be next in line. Not having the problems you guys had with old pump (yet), but I'm sure it's just a matter of time.

Good to know we now have a quality source for fixing this issue.

Darth, now you just need a little warmer weather to show us what she can do!

Happy New Year to your both, and again, congrats.

BTW: not meaning to jack the thread, but does anyone know if we can post video in a format called .3gp ? Quick time player recognizes it. My new phone cam makes video in that format. I just did a pull from 40-120 with video on tach and speedo and would like to post it somewhere in the forum, since there are guys questioning the performance of my car. They can take their own stopwatch and time it themselves.
 
Kudos to you gents for testing this out. I will be picking one up shortly and I believe I am having fueling issues. It would probably be easier to diagnose with a dash hawk or Cobb AP, but I will need a better fuel pump eventually anyways.
 
quick questions, are you both running the new pump or just upgraded internals? Anyone running upgraded internals, thats what Im looking to do and just wanted to get some input.
 
I just upgraded internals. The internals job, if you just pay attention and take your time, is mangia-cake for anyone with a basic set of hand tools and modest facility with them. I used torque wrenches because I have them but, the general idea is pretty obvious when you look at the pump itself. Saves the turnaround time and hassle of buying a full pump.

I'd be happy to help anyone who wants to do it. It was my first time for this but, hardly my first time inside an engine.
 
Full Pump here..But all thats being changed no matter what is the internals. Unlike Darth..I live 40 min away from ptperformance, so alot more convienant where I can just give them my old pump and then give me brand new pump with the upgraded internals. So far so good...temps around here latly been pretty chilly around 20-35 degree..so im running my most conservative map I have on the Accessport, which is a 14 psi map. This should atleast help in the boost cut regard.
 
I have 200 miles on my PTP cdfp and have perfect a/f through redline. I have seen peaks of 2030psi on the pump with solid pressure everywhere in the powerband. Good stuff!
 
I had "perfect a/f" even when my pump was at 700 pounds. The ECU lengthens the injector pulse widths to compensate for low pressure and + a/f is an average of all the cylinders. This can work to a point but, under additional airflow demands, the injectors are hardly closed and the car runs like crap, at high rpms and loads.

A/F is not a sure-fire indicator that all is well. The pressure staying up, even under high demand, that tells you the volume of fuel needed is there, even if only by inference.
 
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