Problem with synthetic fluids?

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

Has anyone heard of any problems running mobil 1 fully synthetic oil in the msp engine and gm synchromesh in the msp trans? I had both in the mp3, the oil wasnt noticeable im sure except for at oil changes it was les dirty, the transmission shifted so much smoother with the synchromesh in it.

 

[goldstar]

Why would you expect that a fully synthetic engine oil such as Mobil 1 would cause any problems? Especially in a turbo engine, it should outperform even a high quality mineral oil. Also, GM Synchromesh seems to be highly regarded by most people who use it.

 

[jeremyfl]

I was told by the techs at the dealer not to use synthetic, not sure of the reasoning....

I thought it also said this in the manual....

 

[Dexter]

bullshits.

 

[BOOSTR]

Nothing wrong with Mobil 1 in the engine. After breaking in the engine with mineral based oil, switching to synthetic will lessen the wear and perform great under the extreme turbo enviroment. Amsoil 75W90 is a better gear oil for our LSD.

 

[Scott]

You might run into a problem if you've been running dinosaur oil for 50,000 miles and are now switching to something like a 5W30.

 

[ChiMSP]

Synthetic oil will eat away at the gaskets of older engines that have never used synthetic. Other than that, i've been running Mobile 1 since my very first oil change and I have not noticed anything out of the ordinary.

 

[Dexter]

i ran regular till 5k, then mobil 1, and now i use Royal Purple. would not have it any other way.

 

[Sveivo]

Synthetic oil will eat away at the gaskets of older engines that have never used synthetic. Other than that, i've been running Mobile 1 since my very first oil change and I have not noticed anything out of the ordinary.

This is true, but it's not as bad as it sounds. In my old car I switched to synthetic at 170K and no major problems. I got rid of it at 199K.

 

[evilmonkeyMSP]

ive got 40k on my MSP would switching to Mobil one be a bad thing? And if not what weight would i use for this hot FL weather?

 

[Sveivo]

I'm sure you'd be fine. At 40K there's not enough build-up at the gaskets if you've been changing it regularly (so there will be no leaks). My parents and I run Mobil1 in all of our cars. And most of them have been switched to synthetic after 100K.

I don't know about the MSP, but for the reg protege it's 10W30 for warmer weather (should be in your manual).

 

[JCell]

on a turbo engine, isn't it required to go synthec?

 

[evilmonkeyMSP]

so what weight would be good for the heat down here? 5w-30? 10w-30?

 

[MSP #167]

turbo engines are suppose to use synthetic, its pretty much standard procedure.

 

[goldstar]

so what weight would be good for the heat down here? 5w-30? 10w-30?

Use whatever the recommended viscosity rating is as stated in the FSM. My '02 FSM recommends 10W-30 for temperatures above -13 deg F (-25 deg C).

 

[Pska]

when you want to make the switch, is there anything special you need to do asside from drain/pour?

 

[goldstar]

when you want to make the switch, is there anything special you need to do asside from drain/pour?

Nothing special. Just drain and refill. Just make sure you run the engine up to operating temperature beforehand as the oil flows more freely and you get a more complete drain that way.

 

[damaster]

I have a 2002 Protege ES, but my dad just bought a used 2001 Protege ES. It has 90k KMs on it and has likely been running regular dino oil since day 1. Is it "dangerous" to switch it over to synthetic now? Is there anything that needs to be done, like an engine "flush", before switching it over to synthetic? Thanks.

 

[ChopstickHero]

I have a 2002 Protege ES, but my dad just bought a used 2001 Protege ES. It has 90k KMs on it and has likely been running regular dino oil since day 1. Is it "dangerous" to switch it over to synthetic now? Is there anything that needs to be done, like an engine "flush", before switching it over to synthetic? Thanks.

you could do an engine flush if you want, but i don't think it's necessary. you don't need to do anything special. just drain your old oil, change the filter and pour in the new stuff. there may be remnants of the old oil, but dino oil and synthetic oil are compatible, it just may be a little diluted. by the time you change the oil again, it should be fully synthetic.

 

[Hughes412]

NEVER DO and engine flush! LOL Basically what your doing is poring ceresin in the motor. I use to run a shop and I stop selling that after I had to replace a motor. Most of the time if you have high mileage on a car the build up inside is what helping hold the motor tight. If you flush it it'll loosen up the internals and boom! If you've done your oil changes properly you'll never need to flush it.